don prcotor
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i plann on riddin by his shop, and then i’m going to check into some prices before i give him any. i sprayed a few before in b/c but that was thru the shop. of corse i will charge more for mets. but thought solids not so much.
thanks for the imput guys.[quote=”ding” post=21713][quote=”bloverby” post=21712]Well they will look fine in SS, but sometimes it’s just as cheap to do bc/cc and odds are you will shoot some in a metallic.
I’ve done a bunch of ’em and $300 is about as low as I’d want to do one a solid color.
[IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c297/bloverby/crtclrs19.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c297/bloverby/jessecrt5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c297/bloverby/kencrt8.jpg[/IMG][/quote]
I see a little distortion in those pix. Maybe you should sand and buff them :whistle:[/quote]
that is what happens when you don’t use a grizzly gun man.just stick witht he dc clears on the enviro. they work well. when i first switch to enviro i had a few hazeing problems and few pops, but that was the fact i loaded the clear on, now the only problem i may have is hazeing, and that comes from me not letting the base dry enough.
the only time i use 2002 is for all overs, and you have no bake so it could take a while to be cure enough to buff if needed. even with my bake, i still have to wait 24hrs before any buffing can be done. any sooner and the sand scratches just come back.
on the 2021 as you may now and jason pointed out just use the apporiate reducer for the job size and heat.
as for the dc’s it’s the same as u would do now. the only thing is your paint times will speed up once you get the hang of the base. the clear flash reguardless of what you use will be the same.yep, even the new exirllic pearls are in them too.
i had fun today, had to paint two covers this morning and both were tri coats. honda white pearl and gm’s red tri.timbo what your thinkin about is when a color gets old enough you can get 2k formula in place of the 3k forumla. like fords e9
there is a product that you can spray onto rust and it turns it into a workable surface.
The new sealers for the envirobase are much better than the ols stuff. 10-15 min,flash.
plus it’s my understanding that the cromax isn’t a true wb system. as my ppg rep said that, when you flood on the materials it becomes hard to work with. it does sound like your base wasn’t dry enough, and the solvent pop is from the clear wanting to set to quickly.
why did you want to switch from enviro? honestly, i can put 3-4 coats of enviro on and dry and ready to paint in 10 mins., 2 coats of clear in another 7 mins., and i’m done by the time your done bakeing your base.
[quote=”CHAD DREHER” post=21593]WHICH ONE HAS MORE SPECIAL COLORS, BASF HAS FOOSE AND WHAT DOES PPG HAVE?[/quote]
ppg does have their vibrance system, is especially for custom effect color, and occasssionaly use in regular color. it is offered in thier solvent and wb lines as well.
i don’t know where your located, if your not in a low voc strick zone, they have some nice clears as well.Yes they. That’s what they tell me every day. & my prepers have super hero prep skiz too.
like others said the primer wasn’t finished cureing. what happens, is the bodyman puts 20 coats of primer on in one shot, blocks, sends to us, we prep, no problems, i paint no problems, i bake, and bam. but of corse it’s always the painters fault. after all it was perfect when it came over.
c’mon man learn your role. 🙂
the funny thing is you won’t find tri coats on european cars. but in all honestly, after spraying a few, you’ll know how many coats to put on.
for some reason it reminds me of finding nemo.
[quote=”ding” post=21476][quote=”MoCoke” post=21474]maybe its just me but 95% of the time i can never locate the paint code for vw’s or audi’s.[/quote]
Thats cause they are in the spare tire pan and since 90% of VW’s are owned by women, you would have to take all that crap out of the trunk to locate it :whistle:[/quote]
amen! sometimes you do find some intresting stuff to look at.[quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=21488]we sometimes have the same problem.
The thing you have to remember here, not sure if it is the same over the pond
Ford codes here are usually one letter and a number, the number is usually tied to when the car was built.
If you just put in the first part of the code this sometimes helps
Make no sense sometimes the letter and number bring up the correct colour. and other times only the letter will bring up the correct colour.[/quote]
nope over here ford has 2 letters.Gm’s r the worst for me, espacially when they put the tags in the trunk, where the spare tire cover is & tthey get missing, or the tag is there or in the glove box & they forget to print it the code.but we usually call the gm place and get a code witht he vin #.