don prcotor

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Viewing 15 posts - 391 through 405 (of 524 total)
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  • November 6, 2010 at 3:46 am #24995

    in the first place. they did an excenlent job at blending the dogleg. look at how well it matches the door.
    secondly, did you run out of primer, when you did the bumper?

    November 3, 2010 at 5:04 am #24917

    i used the online color mix system last night, it didn’t show it in gobal. but then again i was very tired.
    anyhow, i hoped we helped him out.

    November 2, 2010 at 8:19 am #24895

    up to a couple of days ago, i would get that 404 error code. so the site off the my favorite tab, and then resaved it. haven’t had a problem since.

    November 2, 2010 at 7:53 am #24893

    ok i looked around and found a photo of silver frost 66 stang. the ppg code is 32520 which is the formula that wydir listed. it only can be mixed uped in dbc, no listing for gobal. what i listed above is the newer version of it, and is listed ford ts. the photo i saw looks very close to the new version of the color.
    i’ll list the same formula as above but in the dbc version
    abs—–cum.
    DMD649 CLEAR ——–139.4– 139.4
    DMD1687 MED. ALUM.– 374.3– 513.7
    DMD1682 CRS. ALUM. –266.8– 780.5
    DX685 FLATTING—— 23.9— 804.4
    DX821 FLOP ADJUSTER -20.7 —825.1
    DMD641 YELLOW——– 2.3— 827.4
    DBX1689 CLEAR——- 179.2—- 1006.6

    November 2, 2010 at 7:04 am #24891

    here ya go. gobal like you want the dates are for 1995-2008 the code is ford= ts/ brand code 35708 (ppg code) nothing shows up for 1966. and it list 6 alt. to the prime formula. this is for a qt. this is what shows up for silver frost.
    abs.——-cum.
    D772 CRS. ALUM.— 925.9—– 925.9
    D953 CRS. ALUM. —40.2 ——966.1
    D759 MATT BASE —-20.2 ——986.3
    D959 WHITE ——–18.1 ——1004.4
    D966 TRACE WHITE –4.1——- 1008.5
    D740 BLACK ——–3.2——- 1011.7
    D980 TRANS GOLD —1.6——- 1013.3

    November 2, 2010 at 2:20 am #24873

    yeah, but he told me my hack advise was wrong.:blink: :wak

    November 1, 2010 at 1:54 am #24842

    well, ive had cox send me pm. that makes me exrta special.

    October 30, 2010 at 7:44 pm #24827

    [quote=”V8SuperBeetle” post=14871]I finished the deck lid and the hood. I sprayed a final flow coat after sanding with some 600 grit. It came out almost as nice looking as a cut and buffed paint job. I’m very happy with the results. A couple dust nibs here and there, but what can you expect in a garage. ;D

    [img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/black-v8-383-bug-1.jpg[/img]

    [img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/black-v8-383-bug-3.jpg[/img]

    [img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/black-v8-383-bug-2.jpg[/img]

    I also resprayed the fenders. I finally figured out what I was doing wrong that I was getting solvent pop, fish eye, or whatever its’ called. I was just hosing too much paint on. They came out much better. Heck, I could leave them as is, but I’m going to wet sand and do a flow coat.

    [img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/hugger-orange-v8-383-bug-1.jpg[/img]

    [img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/hugger-orange-v8-383-bug-2.jpg[/img]

    I also recorded some video.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9mdqpQQCbs%5B/quote%5D
    i’ve read where some new guys like your self will put 4 coats of clear on then cut n buff.
    i’m glad that you found out that if put 2 coats of clear on and resand with 6-800 grit, reshoot the clear it will be as slick, and looks as if not better than bufffing, not to metion, it cuts the time in half.
    the hood looks really good. i’m glad you didn’t get caught stairing at your self while clear and run the piss out of the hood.
    great job. a few more like this and you can turn pro..lol:whistle: :clappy

    October 29, 2010 at 5:35 pm #24780

    never would of thought of useing a heat gun for the edges, i always waited for it to dry well.

    October 29, 2010 at 5:32 pm #24779

    [quote=”dcturcotte” post=14962]I use to spray it lighter as well, but as I got more confident with the system I started laying it down a lot wetter. As far as orientation goes I really love this system for how the metallics lay down. sometimes on very metallic colors I do two control coats but it has more to do with personal piece of mind then something that is necessary[/quote]i agree, at first i was putting it on with a light coat. then i started to get a little more wet. the more you work with it the more confident you get. i was haveing mottleing problems. but was told that the control coat takes care of that. doing the control coat blows my mind with the 90% overlap. but i love the it looks so flat when it dryes. at first i went to fast on the control coat and made it dry spray.
    how long are you waiting after you put the control coat on before clearing?
    and what are you useing for a precleaner before cleaning the gun?
    are you haveing problems with the red mets. takeing so long to dry and covering well? this the only color i have problems with on coverage regurdless of the value shade sealers.

    October 28, 2010 at 4:51 am #24748

    lookd alot better than mine. great job.

    October 28, 2010 at 4:48 am #24747

    niiiiiice.:clappy :rock

    October 27, 2010 at 5:58 am #24722

    all we do is hit with 1500, run over it with trizact 3000, use 3m rubbing compound, white foam pad, then finish with 3m perfect swirl remover, with blue pad.

    October 26, 2010 at 6:13 am #24687

    thanks. you know the drill, bring it around wet, don’t park the fresh side in the sun. lol

    October 26, 2010 at 6:11 am #24686

    yes, yes it is. cut the top off and it’s not so bad.

Viewing 15 posts - 391 through 405 (of 524 total)