don prcotor
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Your jobber needs a new job. I have them, I spray both dbc & enviro, so inne the 125’s he’ll I even strain the clear with them. No problems, there finer to catch the extra dried up crap out of wb.
[quote=”thekansaskid” post=29289]yes i have and want to. but what i have heard about waterborne is u have to be able to control the humidity in the booth. which i cannot do with this booth. and wichita can be humid as hell. is there truth to this?[/quote]
In the winter that’s not a problem for a heated booth. In the summer I just reducer it down more to help with the dry times.I use 320 da cuase it creates finer scratches, the body guys use 400, which what I would use if your hand blocking body work. You can try switching to the 125 wb strainers, might help with the spec problem.
50 min bake is a long time, I go 30 mins most. May u need to get a digital thermo gun check the metal temp while it bakeing. It may not be getting up to 140. Get some dc4000 with dch3085 & dch3070.
With the 70 is a 10 min bake @120 the other is 20 min.As for the guns go with feels better. Don’t waste time with one if in your mind the other works better.
It’s like any other some colors cover better then others. Learning the proper technique over lapping technique is key. But consider this, enviro base cost 10% more u will use less. But cost more. Not to mention new guns, etc….
That’s cause your not holding the chips in the angle of the sun.
& I can use fast hardness cause the clear is slow drying. The tech sheets do come in handy some times.U can try this but it has to be fresh paint. I have nib a few places on fresh matte paint, compound it out, wipe off excess, then taken a rag with reducer on it, wipe in one direction, let dry, and the finish return to a matte finish.
The color matches really arent that bad, just gonna take a while for u to figure out what works bet. If u do t get the chip deck that helps, if u run into a problem color, let know.
As cor the black specs i had those ocassionaly, just make sure u mix the toners a couple of times a day.
I use dc3000 for the smal jobs, bumpers, no more then 3 panels. If you use it for a hood & fenders, drop the bake metsl temp down to 120 bake between 5-10 mins. Just check it.
For the larger panels i use dc4000, with the dch3070 hardener bake @ 10 -15 mins, but check on it. If u use 85 haedener in it, it will be harder to cut buff later, if u got to, i use a heat lamp for 15 mins after bake. Then cut and buff.
2021 i would use dt870 reducer this will kick your bake and buff times faster. That clear is design to do an all over so it will dry slower. Thats why its a problem on cut and buff.
I also use dc2000 clear, great wet on wet clear (no tack time) you can pull out in 15 mins and buff it in 30 mins. I have used it to clear a complete front end but used. Slower reducer so it doesnt kick to fast. But there is a trick to use it. U have to double coat the parts, exp. half hood 2 coats, then do the other side.
Other then the 2021 clea the dc clears are temp sensitive, so make sure u have the temp in both set coreectly.
Do they still light up red? Nice job
You can use the 4k for baseing if u like. U want med wet coats,(probly a tad wetter)Over laping 70%. If u find mottling a problem, try using a slower reducer. It will take some finessing your tech., after all your going from 1 product that needs to be sprayed one way, to another sprayed another way. As for the sealer, 1.4 or 1.5 if u have it.
The range on the reducers can very quite a bit
Dt870—70-85. I use this on bumpers, spot jobs or cuttin off a fender, possibly if u have the temp down maybe blending a door. If your like me mi e is @ 85, so 70 on a blend will leave a dry edge. Or dust.Dt885—-85-95, I normally use this for any thing more then 2 panels or large panels.
Dt895–95+—-summer time or all overs.
Dt898—-when its hotter then hell out. Rarely used.
If u need any help on the ooh clears let me know.
And I can tell you what colors work well.
Like, gm 8624 white cut off
8555..use the darker alt perfect match for cut off
& Honda it’s important to enter the 11th digit of the vin for correct color match, exp. nh700m-a
I’ve been upswing delete on for 11+ yrs. so don’t be shy to askUse dt885. & stay with 85 with the base, unless u turn the temp down 870 will dry faster then u think. I use a 3000 hvlp 1.3 for sealing & baseing. On the sealer I do like to turn the fan pattern in so it is as wide as my old 90jet. But that’s for film build. As for the motling & tiger striping I wouldn’t worry about it. After 3 coats of base you won’t see that problem. I have notice that with the tiger striping when the pod linner sucks in it will change the patern of the gun. A 1.4 tip would be ideal, but I know that a new kit is like 300, try turning the patern in tighter.
that depends on the color, some times it matches, some times it doesn’t. the problem with omni is coverage.
Thought of a solution for ya. Get a block heater installed on your truck. Plug it in, it’ll run all nite & keep the cabin warm for ya.
Car looks great. We did a hood on a first gen., thing rides like ass, hated working on the hood too.
U need to make sure that the wb is dry enough before clearing, 15 mins. I know i had the same issue, with the base on
He dye backs.
I use dc3000 & dc 4000 clears, 3000 being the fastes, but if i use a slow hardner iy does take longer to harden. Generally i stick with the fater hardners, i also dc2000 fast air dry clear, wich works very well wiith the enviro.When i need to do a big job, i’ll use dc4000 woth dch3070 hardner, keeps the glss & get the 10 min. Bake time as well.
Also with dc3000 the flash times r important, any longer then 5 mins i be better off leti g it air dry. I don’t know what % your reduceing your base, but i have bumped it up to 30, works well with dry times.