don prcotor
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well i spray 4 cars 2day useing the plastic. i wish i knew i cuould of done this in the past. after outlineing and backtapeing, it was much easier to cut out and tape down, and it seemed like it took less time to tape. and less time in the booth. i’ve also notice that the jobs r much cleaner.
now i can save some coin. most importantly, after bakeing, no paint poped off the plastic, like it has in the past.[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]when plastic first came out it wasnt treated and wasnt made to tape right up to the critical edge. most plastics now a days are fine. they have a treated side. as ryan said you have to have the side that says this side out, or paint this side facing up. i back tape everything and put plastic right up to the edge. i never had anything blow off. I hardly ever even have to denib jobs. USC shark skin, 3M, Norton (carbo is norton) are all good brands. I have used all three with the same results
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[IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-358S.jpg[/IMG][/quote]we back tape everthing, spnonge tape the jambs if needed, i will have to give it a try. i do need to seal everything now. so would i have to worry about sealer poping off.and it seems like it’s been stone ages since useing 3m’s slime as we called it. works well, but didn’t like it. it’s too expensive, hate the fact that you need to wipe the painted areas off with water, mainly becuase i was unassure that i got it all off, and for some reason after bakeing, if you let it sat out in the sun for a day it was a pita to get off. the other spray mask stuff i really didn’t like it smelled and looked like chick fat.
all, it’s nothing a little bondo can’t fix.
looks real good. but don’t they always look better leaving?
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]sure you told them to sand it…..after someone else call you out on it :chair :chair
bottom line is your methods border on hackery. it ok. no need to get upset about it.
hell Bondo’s a Hack and we still love him :lol1 :lol1
Only diff is that he knows it. you seem to be in some sort of denial :pcorn:[/quote]i’m not in denial. i don’t remember being in denail. but i’m a little confussed. you say i’m on the boarder of hackery, and then you say i’m in denial. which is it?[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]Lild,
Most of your posts seem to be about how to take shortcuts around proven and approved methods. Everyone will take a shortcut now and again and hope it doesn’t bite them in the arse. Those that do it as their SOP’s however either don’t know any better or are just plain hacks.[/quote]i didn’t tell anyone to not seal before they base. i said that’s what i do.
i also don’t remember telling anyone to take a short cut on any kind of work being done here.
the last thing i want is some one telling me, i took the short cut you told me about and it didn’t work.[/quote]
Just one example“i cheat at times by just filling the key marks with bondo. then prime and paint. “[/quote]
first that’s another forum. never told anyone to cheat on this one. plus. i’ve done it several times and know it works. it’s no different then fixing a dent. i even told the person to make sure they sand the damage parts first. nice try.ok, i see why ppg claims to be a true wb product. after reading some of your old post. why is alchol added to your product? and the shelf life is way short. ppg’s off a 90 days onced mixed. and agian how much faster? i know with proper fan set up you get a 3 mins. flash and 5 mins. just to let dry on it’s own with ppg. once agian i will ask my rep. but i would like to be prepared before i ask. i need to have my facts straight as you would say.
[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]Lild Sikkens is in fact a true 100% latex technology=true waterborne,been in use in europe since 1994.Envirobase and Autowave are very similar but sikkens is faster,dude you need to get your facts straight before you spread bad info ;)[/quote]i’m only repeating what ppg told me.i was told all others are a hybird mix. so please forgive if i seem miss inform. i will have to ask them to clearify that to me. how much faster is it?[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]Lild,
Most of your posts seem to be about how to take shortcuts around proven and approved methods. Everyone will take a shortcut now and again and hope it doesn’t bite them in the arse. Those that do it as their SOP’s however either don’t know any better or are just plain hacks.[/quote]i didn’t tell anyone to not seal before they base. i said that’s what i do.
i also don’t remember telling anyone to take a short cut on any kind of work being done here.
the last thing i want is some one telling me, i took the short cut you told me about and it didn’t work, and it’s your fault.
so just to put out there, do not take a short cut unless you know how to fix it the right way, if it goes wrong. and it’s up to you to take it or not. i’m not responsible for what YOU do in your repairs.[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]Lild,
Most of your posts seem to be about how to take shortcuts around proven and approved methods. Everyone will take a shortcut now and again and hope it doesn’t bite them in the arse. Those that do it as their SOP’s however either don’t know any better or are just plain hacks.[/quote]i didn’t tell anyone to not seal before they base. i said that’s what i do.
i also don’t remember telling anyone to take a short cut on any kind of work being done here.
the last thing i want is some one telling me, i took the short cut you told me about and it didn’t work.well first you need to pick up a copy of the epa national area source rule book. you will have to apply to them on you shop being in compliance. they will help you in a hurry on what you want to buy.(i say this because of all the rules on equipment and weather or not it’s worth your investment.)
as for the water born that will depend on who you go with. ppg, requires a lot and you’ll have to go thorug their training and most likely be under contract to get it. but you don’t need a special both. as for the cost of water borne. we’re told the toners are 10% more. but you use way less then solvent. so it depends on your budget.
the rp is a good gun for clear, if your going to keep the same guy for painting, i would suggest geting what he is comfy with. buy the rp or hvlp, conventionals will no longer be compliant for epa rules. gl and have fun with your new adventure.[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]Man I grew up with conventional spray guns(been painting in a production shop since 86)I have a sata jet 90 and painted with one for 10 years,the speed is the same compared to a 3000rp.The fan is 12inches on a 3000 lets be realistic,an nr 2000 is not faster than an rp.As far as envirobase try sikkens autowave and you will find out what is faster.I paint in a shop with 2 downdrafts and 16 bodymen,2painters,I know all about speed :rofl But hey like I said before you can paint however ya like :pcorn:[/quote]that’s cool. every one likes their steak cooked differently. plus we can’t use sikens, under contract with ppg, and sikkens isn’t a true waterborne.
that’s a big shop. man all we got is 4 bodymen, 3 prepers, one down draft and me as the painter. i’m sure you guys must be doin, what 60 a week?i know you can sand down with some 3000 grit (trizact system) then buff back out. i’ve never heard of anyone clearing their lights.
i would repair the inside first, paint, hang, then work on the outside.
look, 12 yrs. ago when we switch from dupont to ppg, the first question i ask the PPG REP. was, why don’t you have a adpr. for the base like duponts 222s? his response. we don’t need adpro. for our base to stick. plus yes they have goten of me for not useing it. and when i ask why, they tell me the same thing. then i refer back to what he told. i have ask my rep. not jober, if i really need to seal e-coat before baseing. the answer was no. and i still get my warranty from ppg if a problem does occur.
plus i don’t go around asking people who painted their car, reguardless of me noticeing a color difference or any other problem paint or body related. hell even when people who bring a car in with problems form another shop. we never ever talk another shop down. reguardless of their rep.. plus i know you guys are telling me that it doesn’t mean something is wrong with it. but agian i doubt it. we do offer a lifetime warranty. agian nothing comes back for rock chips. i just know my products. and i’ve done the same thing on my own cars. no problems.
now finally, before anyone else post about telling me to seal in the future. please don’t i have stated once or twice, that i have to now that i’m useing enviro base.