don prcotor

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  • July 11, 2010 at 5:35 pm #22682

    orange peel can happen with any clear. the fast the clear dries the more likely it will happen. also to low of psi will cause orange peel. up your psi to 40-45 if useing a hvlp and maybe a little reducer in the clear.
    if all you have is that one gun, get a convental or a rp for clearing, imo hvlp’s suck putting clear on.

    July 11, 2010 at 8:47 am #22676

    plus as your painting, you can watch your psi, and if it drops you just adjust at the gun, and you don’t have to run to the wall to bump up.

    so set the guage at the wall high 55-70 psi. and adjust the psi with the guns air flow adjuster to desire psi.

    July 11, 2010 at 8:42 am #22675

    it should be a semi gloss for the base. as for the gun psi. i turn the dial on the wall up to 50-60 psi. then i use the air adjuster on the gun, turn that down until you see 29 psi. don’t look at the guage on the gun and adjust at the wall gauge. if you are that’s why your loseing the psi. wall gauge up high, adjust at the gun.

    July 11, 2010 at 8:33 am #22674

    try switching to a slower clear. i use jc620, and the 85 hardner on what i call cheap jobs. i belive the 620 is a little slower clear.
    when it gets that hot, useing a fast clear and a slow hardner is a waste of time. you’ll have better results the other way around.

    July 11, 2010 at 4:51 am #22654

    could b a lot of things. moisture in the air lines. something on your clotes. something floating in the air. it’s hard to say. if you have some fisheye eliminator you can use it. but if you use it in the base you’ll have to use it in the clear. you can wait 15 mins. and lightly sand the base with 600 and rebase start with a light coat.

    July 10, 2010 at 3:24 am #22599

    [b]stanclub wrote:[/b]
    [quote][b]ding wrote:[/b]
    [quote][b]stanclub wrote:[/b]
    [quote]So to reverse blend the midcoat, just blend each coat further in?

    Is stagger means painting 45degrees in both directions?[/quote]
    Heres a visual for you. say you painted the fender and blended the door

    a reverse blend would be this.
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/IMG_0629.jpg[/IMG]

    A staggered reverse blend or what ever you want to call it would be this
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/IMG_0630.jpg[/IMG]

    the angle of the gun doesnt change regardless of which method you choose[/quote]

    Ding ,

    This is SOOOO much :woohoo: easier for me to understand ( sorry, I am really new to this ). THANKS A BUNCH!

    Just out of curiosity. If for any reason, more than 3 coats of midcoat is needed, how do I manage to stagger blend? Or, where does the additional coat(s) needs to be stopped at???[/quote]
    this is why you do a let down card first. once you detrimine how many coats you need, you just do the same.

    July 10, 2010 at 3:21 am #22597

    [b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
    [quote]I was taught this technique years ago by a sikkens tech rep,and now he runs the western canada training center in Vancouver,no sheet I bet he is 60 years old and still at the top of his game. :wak We are so busy in our paint shop when it comes to 3 stages I don’t do let down panels anymore,I just wing it with this technique.The trick once again is to have the right foundation color,reverse blending,and stagger your coats of pearl.After 20 plus years it’s second nature ;)[/quote]
    glad to see that i’m not the only one to wing it. honestly once you do one you remember what is what for each manufacture.
    also the way i was taught, was to use clear base coat. apply it first, then after baseing, mix it with the pearl and do a fina blend.

    July 9, 2010 at 6:15 am #22551

    why didn’t you use aircraft striper?

    July 9, 2010 at 5:25 am #22542

    honestly, i’ve never done it with color. the dupont guys taugh us just with primer 15 yrs ago when the concept was new. i suppose it could work. i just know pearls are a pita to blend. as a matter of fact the only way i like to blend a pearl is headlight to tail light. :unsure:

    July 9, 2010 at 4:22 am #22530

    he only gave him self 20 mins paint time.

    July 9, 2010 at 4:19 am #22528

    also if you take that clear base i told you to mix up, and your pearl on the last coat mix that and the pearl 1:1, it will make blending your pearl out really nice. you just blend it over the last blend are you did.

    July 9, 2010 at 4:16 am #22527

    yeah i realize that after the fact. but you don’t want to do that on pearls, works great on primer. but the way i explained it will work on blending colors.

    July 9, 2010 at 2:35 am #22521

    turn the tip of the gun nozzle towards the tire, now move the gun towards the door handle. this is reverse blending.
    also mix up the binders (what you use when you mix color) at 1:1 and then reduce 1:1. now you have clear base. spray all the panels to be paint. this helps with blending on mets. and pearls. also with the mid coat you can’t paint fender to door,,door to fender. like you normally do. you have to make a pass and instead of reverse blending do as usuall. go back and do it again, u do this until the whole panel is done. and with each coat blend a little further than last.
    also on toy. pearls, it takes like 4 coats of mid to get the pearl effect right. and the base color has to be right on. no matter how many coats of pearl you put on it won’t change the color much.
    i also belive that the prime is too white. try another alt. like a dirter, or darker, maybe yellower.

    July 8, 2010 at 7:59 am #22507

    as for ppg clears, the dc lines are good, and made for air dry applications. dc3000 is a fast clear, with dc4000 being slower.

Viewing 14 posts - 511 through 524 (of 524 total)