don prcotor
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Dude get u one of those jet type kero heaters, to keep the tent warm. I know it sucks in the cold weather, u using speed clear?
[quote=”Ben” post=28857]Wow…that was ummm… definitely you lild :p[/quote]with that great lookin smile of yours, i may just get you to host next time.
sham wow will have nothing on us. :exci[quote=”smooth” post=28846]Awesome job lild. great waste of time. :lol1[/quote]
did you see how i gave you props? :clappy :cheers[quote=”ding” post=28803][quote=”lild” post=28789]
but if it helps any, i noticed that when it got colder out, even though i have a heated booth, the static is worse.[/quote]
Thats because the air is drier :p[/quote]you just got’d thank you. :chair
i can’t decide what color, and style to put in mine. deffintly gonna have it 3m stain treatment, and if i catch any one wearing shoes when they walk on it, so help’em!!!!!
make sure when you use the wipes, to wipe in one direction, that helps alot. and the dx103 in the gun is what i do, but don’t use on bumpers, especially on am covers, it spots the am primers.
but if it helps any, i noticed that when it got colder out, even though i have a heated booth, the static is worse.
and the whole chain ground thing is a myth.
when i switched to the wb paints, i had dye backs pretty bad, and found out i wasn’t giveing enough flash time before clearing, even when i used slow clears. so a little more dry time helped, as well as improving my paint technique of the base.
as for the clears, i have 4 i like to use, all are high solids, 1 poly, the other acrylic. two of the acrylics, i can buff with in an hr after bakeing, the other i can not, as if will be fine to start but the sand scratches will come back thru a while later. the poly, i can sand it at the end of the day, and have to wait a full day before buffing it, to keep the scratches from comeing back.
as for your detail guy, you need to find out what he useing to finish the job. i use a med. heavy cut cream with white foam pad, and finish with a blue swirl remover. we use 1000, 1500 depending on the situation, and finsh with trizact 3000 to make the whole buffing experince better. also how long is your guy waiting before doing any buffing. the p-sheets give an x amount of time after cool down before polishing.
the nice thing is, that you and your boss are haveing the same problem. or maybe it’s the detail guy that is having the problem.??
ok, i just tried to load a photo, in my profile gallery, and this is the error msg. i got…..
“Your browser is unable to support the new upload method. Please use the conventional upload method.”
i don’t even get this for the video.
i am useing ie9, and i belive when i download it, it was in the betta version. i can see i can get ie10 if that would help, or do i need to down grade to ie8?
i’ll try to give more info. not real good with computer tech.. i know i can upload useing photobucket on a post, but when i try to upload directly from the lap top to my gallery in my profile nothing shows up. exp….i did a experimental windows movie of a paint job, i went to my profile/video, clicked on the “browse” buttton choose my video, then the screen jumps back to the profile/video page but no video, no “uploading” status, same with pics.. normally, when i try things like this, and if my uploads fail, i get some kind of warning of went wrong. but i get no warning. i do belive on the pics, i think once i got a error code for the ie i was running. i don’t remember what exacly it said.
i have window 7, and i belive i either have ie 8 or the betta 9 version.
i was trying to avoid creating a post, and useing photobucket if i could. i see others are able to upload pics and things to their profile page
[quote=”rikka23″ post=28554][quote=”billgaino” post=28544]Well what the hell am I supossed to do when they bring this crap to my shop with a 1000$ deductible and no money? I can either save the quarter and take the check, or let them WALK. There was a big dual A/C evaporatoer in behind the panel too. :S
[/quote]Know guys put me straight if I’m wrong but from this picture if you take of the bumper and rear light and carefully drill out the spot welds you can take the triangle panel which the light bolts to giving you loads of room to put bars,dollies and flap most of the dent and if needs be heat shrink if needs be or put sound pads in then reweld or spot the panel back in hidden by the light and rubbers, and but as little filler in as you ca. :)[/quote]i’ve read this 3 times, and i still don’t understand what your asking.
wash the car with dawn soap.
your doing the right thing with the wet on wet application of the sealer and base. you should wait 15-30 mins. to put tape on the base, any sooner the tape will lift the base.
i agree that your tape may be too sticky, one thing you can do is kill the tape, to do that is to take the tape and run the sticky side across your shirt or pants, this will be less sticky.
here’s a few things i’ve done to take care of the same problem.
1…make sure to color the jamb area first going up and down, let flash and paint like normal,two….take some wide tape and tape like your going to back tape, useing the foam tape on top of that so i have a extra body panel, roll the tape back over that, shut door good seal, and the tape won’t let the sealer get in as far as the foam will.
3…say fudge it, and get the 101 excuse’s book.
4….blame the guy who taped it and tell him to fix it.
5…. :nothingtoad :clappy
where’s the middle finger smiley. :hunt :rofl
Dp is fine to use over bare metal, u don’t want to use etch with it. Dp has it’s own etching properties. I have used it for yrs over bare metal, no adhession problems, sounds like your paint guy does improper prep for dp not to adhere.