[quote=”bondomerchant” post=21880][quote=”MoCoke” post=21879]i only use heat on a frame if there is cosmetic damage to it like a kink or buckle on a horn piece for example that will eventually be sectioned but never for structural alignment purposes[/quote]
aw who u $hitten rosebud!!!![/quote]
lol yea your rite. to be honest i use the torch to widen the body mounting holes on core supports and shift the body over to where ever the chassis went to. no pulling necessary
i only use heat on a frame if there is cosmetic damage to it like a kink or buckle on a horn piece for example that will eventually be sectioned but never for structural alignment purposes
the regular blue shop towels that costs like 2 dollars a roll :dnc
im gonna have to agree with blove that if your not gonna make money on them then just dont do them. id do one in ss and see how it looks, if it looks okay and not great, clear it. then if thats the case id do the rest in bc/cc
i like 3m bare metal seam sealer, its a two part seam sealer, but basically if it says dont use it inside the vehicle its because of its strong odor but thats usually the 1k sealer. you might also use the 2k flowable sealer for your drip panel.
how would you get inside if the battery dies, or u lose your controller?
i woulda just dupli-colored dem lol
i just noticed the radio is gone 😆
lol, yea the duplicolor truck bed coating in aerosol is a life saver. i used it on some headlight bezels, inner door bottoms, inner fenders… you name it :whistle:
very nice looking job there nex. looks like it came from an early 2000 f250. BTW how did u accomplish the textured look?
apparently neither. Grizzly takes home the gold
i demo’d an iwata hvlp and i wasnt impressed with it (slow speed) except its very wide spraying pattern. since your already on the right track with buying a high quality gun, you might want to consider what sata has to offer.
btw i notice your in New Jersey and 4 months to find a body shop job? wow! did you try craigslist?