MoCoke
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7′ height is too low, if your not going to be painting that much id probably just clean the garage up really good and soak the floors each time i need to paint. with all the money you save not building the booth, buy a much larger compressor. you wont regret it.
you guys are artists painting on a steel canvas. looks real time consuming. i could never do any of that, if i could paint that in just a single solid color without any flaws id feel just as accomplished.
[b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]I got a quote on a garmat frontier booth with a 1 millon BTU heater, solid back, double skin installed for $65,645.00[/quote]for a steel box with a couple of fans? god damn!
sounds like it’ll cost just about the same to build a custom ‘homemade’ booth as it does for a manufactured economy model.
what i like about the idea is most standard booths are 9 feet high which is sometimes too small for my line of work. i typically require 10 feet which is what i have now and it gets pretty tight sometimes. so a bit higher is better, but not being standard will mean ill end up paying a lot more
how much do true, pitted downdraft manufactured models typically cost with or without heat? any good sources or brands too shop around for?
My current booth is made of cinder block, and a large steel roll up entry door. no heat and poor air flow. (cross flow design) the exhaust is circulated to a water trap to collect overspray. all home made but not very efficient any more (20 years old)
[b]bloverby wrote:[/b]
[quote]Flux core on 22ga metal?,,,, we’ll there you go. :whistle:[/quote]exactly what i was gonna say
i wouldnt cry if the owner decided to repair it some place else. thats just how much i hate working on chrysler
looks good, looks like everything ended up lining up perfectly. paint looks good too
[b]Han wrote:[/b]
[quote]Dag, post some pics of the work. Would be cool to see.[/quote]Please do! i need to do this too
Judging by the link on down draft booth design, the one with a completely grated floor seems like it will produce the best finishes and help utilize the greatest square footage of the room? am i wrong? why do some down drafts have such narrow floor exhausts then?
deliver the car wet, it’ll be impossible to tell what is a water drop and what is a clear drop 😉 lol
tried this today on a hunydai santa fe and it turned out great. i used 800 grit and wax and grease remover only, other then soap and water. any other solvent causes the plastic to dissolve.
the stuff you see on the site is the stuff i use. but only the 4.2 glamour clear
Morton clear is USC, the older 4000 clear i believe sells cheap because it was a bit yellow and on the runny side.(ask bondo i think he said he tried it) I tried the 2.0 voc production clear once because i ran out of 4.2 and the jobber ran out so i had no choice but to buy it. it wasnt as good for overall refinishing since its much faster but worked well for partial refinishing. never tried the new universal one because well the 4.2 works so well i really dont need to switch it.
i did however try the rebranded Champion Legacy clear last week which is originally valspar ac200. stay away from that stuff lol, a little yellow and just plain crap. felt a lot like transtar kwik clear but in a poly version
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]something interesting, i did a little googling on that clear. it appears that prospray’s amtech line is relabeled morton/usc. amtech’s glamour clear is the stuff you are using right there.[/quote]EXACTLY!!! ive been trying to tell everyone that, the difference? you pay 130-150 for a setup of amtech, Morton between 65-75 a setup.
thanks Ben, yea same here and everywhere i guess, let alone no one does bc/cc on them except maybe the manufacturer when they sell taxi packages
yea, jayson, just one single pass per panel with the RP and im done :lol1 i used marhyde ultimate 2k gray on the bodywork, then wanda hs primer but reduced annd tinted to sealer for the overall, sanded that with 800 and sprayed dimension base coat followed with morton clear.
Bondo, the clear holds up really well, its been a few years now since i first used it and the cars still look like they just left the booth, no issues. seriously try a gallon, you wont be disappointed.
nah thats polyurethane primer slightly tinted so the base covers faster, more evenly
Rat, the profit i make is the sale of these cars not really the paint job, and jambs? na they require it but when they go for inspection and see how much better the paint looks then the other cabs they pass it. ugly cabs get failed for everything, my pretty cabs (with the stripe) pass