MoCoke
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she so purrty :lol1 is she on the payroll too?
that is so effin crazy! in the future you should add a pps cup to it lol
i thought the window to clear basecoat was like 7 days or something like that. if you scuff youll have to reapply the basecoat so its best to clear within its recommended time frame.
if its a solid color like black ill spray the jambs and car as a unit including clear and spray the doors off the car. then reassemble. other then that its best like u said to spray the basecoat, assemble, spray the out side of the car in base, then clear inside and out. if you do it that way you’ll need to mask the jambs up pretty good so the masking paper doesnt stick to the doors as u close them slightly.
in my opinion, Mar-hyde ultimate 2k primer is some pretty good stuff and doesnt shrink as bad as the other primers. it also dries fast and sands super easy. it sells between 65-80 a set up. its extremely thick so you’ll end up reducing it about 10-20% or using a 2.0 tip to spray it as is.
welcome, yea auto body is awesome because not too many people can do it or do it well
[b]Ryan wrote:[/b]
[quote]thanks man i think ill be alright then. itll keep me handy for these few jobs ill be doing and also once i get into the shop. next gun ill get is probably a Devilbiss GTi and then a minijet.[/quote]daily devilbiss tekna user and its a great clear gun with the 7E7 cap but kinda tricky for metallics, the 202 cap makes metallics flawless.
Nice! looks like a fun project
we’ve been in business for 20 years and our telephone has never been published. all we had was a sign, and that got damaged during a hurricane years back. all of our customers arrive by word of mouth or they just see crashed cars along the lot. your work should be the only advertising you rely on that brings in business. the other stuff just gets the word around that your another bodyshop.
i wouldnt recommend trying to fix the door alone, you might fix the mottling but end up with a mismatch and then have to do it all over again. its probably best to sand the quarter and door with 1000 grit and respray/blend it. you mite even find it necessary to now blend them in with the front door. its sucks, i know, u replace a hood and find urself blending into the rear bumper. but b4 u do anything find out why it mottled. toyota silver is a real pain but if u spray it lightly and ull be okay
NICE WORK and pics
rust has to be removed completely not painted over. if its surface rust its best to use a sand blaster to remove rust in the craters. if its holes, ull need to cut it out and weld in patches. when the metal is all smooth and rust free, prime it with epoxy primer 1st, then do the body work 2nd, followed with 2k high build last. dont use the rust converter stuff. pure crap
Welcome!
Yea man good luck with the shop, its tough to start off that way especially if your going to depend on technicians
yea they dont require sanding if its raw plastic. i use PPG nano adhesion kit where u sand with a pre-saturated sponge, wipe with a special adhesion wipe, let it flash, then spray the adhesion promoter and let that flash. after that it gets top coated with flexible sealer. its real easy and it holds the paint really well. i think with this kit you dont have to preheat the plastic to release the mold agents but id still do it or wash with really hot water first.
we never fired any employee or cut their pay, but if they weren’t productive or goofed around we didn’t increase their pay. i think thats the best strategy we had to keep the atmosphere competitive. unless they were just plain terrible and they went home for the weekend, we asked them not to come back on Monday unless we called them. lol
[b]Whitesnake wrote:[/b]
[quote]I’m assuming this truck is salvage and not clean title? In NY if they found out you switched the vin at the salvage inspection they would have a $hit fit. They call it vin tampering. I’ve done my fair share of cab swaps. In NY they give you a new vin. They call it an assigned vin. They remove the vin from the cowl and put a sticker in the door jamb with the new vin. I really wish they did it different so you could keep the original vin. Oh well, in NY you don’t have a choice. It’s either repair the original cab or get an assigned vin.[/quote]Thats exactly what i was going to say lol. its like a little yellow sticker and the VINs like 5-6 numbers long.