MoCoke
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
like stone said sand with 400 grit if its in decent shape, no need to take it down to metal if you dont need to. plus, how are you gonna go about switching the vin number from the old cab to the new?
[b]lesward79 wrote:[/b]
[quote]I am doing my 1985 Caprice![/quote]one of the best cars ever made. would love if you shared pics of the work on it
i disassemble like you said Jinx… it takes only a couple minutes to do it that way and you keep the gun looking and operating like new each time you use it. i wouldnt just squirt thinner through it unless it was a cheap gun i didnt care for.
never used a gun washer b4 but i bet it would make the whole process a whole lot easier and like bondo said as long as its hobby work it prolly aint worth buying
ahhh! i remember that same feeling when i used the Tekna for the first time. matter of fact i still get that feeling :wak
ive used sharp for years and they go bad the fastest. i dont think its worth spending $200-$300 on a bad gun when u can get a good one for $300-$400 that lasts years not weeks.
im actually working on something similar. i started off by pulling it as if i were going to save it which means making the pulls as accurate as possible. i bought a used a quarter which makes these totals a lot cheaper and sometimes easier to repair. but i began by removing the damaged quarter first then the donor. in your case i suspect the right frame rail needs sectioning, and the rear frame sub assembly needs replacement. thats an example of a car id repair for a customer but not one that i would buy. if i was going to buy a car with heavy damage it has to be a year or 2 old the most to make it worth it.
PPG has factory packaged colors for some makes and some colors, idk if they come in anything larger quart sizes, but i remember certain ford colors like YZ,WT or TS was available sometimes.
just found this out a few mins ago, but USC makes Amtech Clears, and its branded under Morton Glamour Clear 4.2 VOC. Same clear ive been using for the last couple of years and its the best laying clear ive used thus far. but 130 is not cheap for it although it is worth that. I get it for 65 a set up.
wow looks real good! wat clear ya use?
yea next time u mite want to consider USC icing it adheres to sanded paint or filler quite well and feather edges great but its only for skimming.
[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote]:welcto get Ins. work , you just need to bend over , waaay over …. and putup with a bad taste in your mouth. :whistle: 😉
On the serious side …. Here the customer say’s where he’d like his car fixed and Ins. sends me an info sheet (claim # etc.). Customer then comes in and I take 6 pictures and write a sheet , which I then email (pic’s and estimate) , to a desk appraiser , who then rewrites it to his liking (lowers labour rates & material costs, etc.) , and he sends it back. Then when the jobs done I suppliment for extras , and he sends me another sheet (final suppliment)
Then I invoice the Ins. Co. and wait for 2 months to get paid :whistle:
Careful what you wish for :unsure:[/quote]
is it really that difficult to get paid? waiting 2 months for a check? i always wanted to ask this question too but if i have to wait more then a couple weeks i dont think its worth it at all especially if your only getting underpaid to begin with
nicely done on both cars! what brand primer are you using
if its peeling off it probably means that its not ment to be topcoated directly without sanding.
[b]Han wrote:[/b]
[quote]Nice work! NH623M…[/quote]lol i just sprayed that color today, a little difficult.
i like the garage door idea with the filter cutout, pretty clever. but nice work bondo