MoCoke
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electric sanders operate in random orbital action and they are much slower and not as aggressive, wouldnt recommend it. dual action sanders based on cfm probably wont operate efficiently on anything less then 80 gallon compressor. the small pancake compressor wouldnt work. 80 grit is a bit too rough to sand with unless your stripping the paint off completely.
yeaa i suspected the basecoat as the culprit too, like Jimmo said they probably didnt let it flash properly because the clear is well adhered on the top of the door where it wouldnt blow off. so i sanded the door down and sprayed surfacer on the whole door. i asked the owner when he stopped in where he had it repaired b4 and he said “oh idk the insurance company (progressive) took the car and fixed it for me.” to complicate this job even further the insurance company’s estimate calls for a new aftermarket fender which i purchased and wouldnt fit at all. not even poorly :S
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]The kid used some 4:1 yesterday. sanded nice a few hours later when i ot to it. however I did notice the stuff in the cup that was left over was still like gel tonite. the g2 would have been hard as a rock by now[/quote]sorta wondering how did you dry it? like did u force dry it or air dry it? and how did u sand it with da or hand? because i used it and cant get it to sand easily.
This problem has happened with about every clear I have used. it is hard to believe it is my airline because I have an air dryer, about 75 feet of hose and 3 FOOT “SANKE” right before the gun, however, I am going to be open to whatever may solve the problem. I have the air dryer 20 feet from the compresson and 20 feet of black iron piping on a downward angle back to the compressor inbetween.
okay now i think i found your problem. the 75 feet of hose you have is a little too long. by the time the air reaches the gun its going to cool down and condensate further in the hose. and another question is what brand clear are you using? have you used other brands and still get the same problem? because once i had a rep sample me some Transtar and it turned out pretty good. so when i ordered a gallon it gave me these little bubble looking things. i brought the rep back in and he turned the can upside down and told me it was from old stock. he replaced it and the problem was solved. if you absolutely think the problem isn’t coming from your air setup, then try a different clear brand.
it could be fisheye, possibly coming from oil in the compressor. but it could also be defective clear. but it looks more like fisheye so its either oil or water. the set up you have probably isnt doing the job correctly or your trap is to close to the compressor. try using the motor guard spray gun filters instead of the snake. i got a few filters from the compressor to the booth but i can always tell the difference if i forget to turn on the air drier. so yea an air drier definitely helps out a lot
yea i agree with everyone, if your going to scuff the whole truck id apply a color coat too. it’ll help fill the minor scratches. you could just wet sand the entire truck with say 2000 grit and polish with out clear but like you mentioned not trusting the factory clear being thick enough. dont forget you have a graphics and stripe that’ll need to be removed and replaced if you do plan to repaint.
[b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote]I see you have the same multi colored filler work that I do… Bondo says he can keep all his coats the exact same color. I call bull…[/quote]lol thats actually funny, i miss doing body work where a job consuming a few gallons wasn’t odd. all i do now is replace. probably go through a gallon of filler a month the very most.
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