MoCoke
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welcome Matthew, whys everyone who uses ppg say that? i use DBC and silver to me is the easiest color to spray.
i think the steck one is the best one, its simple and easy to use.
the 4:1 feather fill is difficult to sand especially with a block. i found Mar-Hyde urethane primer surfaces sands like chalk and fills way better if u use a big tip like 2.2 and up
personally id go with welding the jamb and not the door because u raise the potential of chipping or cracking the filler if the door is opened against an object. a solid rod works best, perhaps a bit beyond the edge and then grinding it down flush with the adjacent surface will use a hell of a lot [u]less[/u] filler and better appearence
i never understood why people want a flat finish but sherwin has a flattener for single stage paints. #da668 dimension line, but its in the near 200 dollar range. for that money id go with a flat clear. i guess you can wet sand with 1500 grit and not have to worry about polishing lol to keep it really flat.
hey thanks, im gonna start with Meguiars since its easier for me to buy. i hope i get as good results
How do u do it Han? like u keep posting pics of cars where u painted only a couple of parts but u make the whole car look great. and u show the products but its like a different product each time. what steps do u take? for the painted parts do u fully sand them and polish or just denib them? like even the wheels on the mercedes… i can never get them to look so clean. i wanna get work out looking like that too.
i think you should make a grill for them too to protect the speaker but nicee work they look awesome!
same here thats what i started with, just a bigger badder version, the stands hold the car up so it doesnt lose balance, but id recommend you chain the machine to the car going in the opposite direction of your pull. and then to anchor both the car and the machine to the floor. makes a really solid pull. the anchoring points on the car will be damaged but thats what you get with that machine.
since this topic instantly went from kirker to profit lol i would like to comment that most of you guys are just throwing way too much money into materials. i mean do u really need to buy name brand lacquer thinner? or how bout buying a 100 dollar roll of masking paper? i was just driving home and i noticed that Earl Shcieb has a sign that says Complete Paint Jobs starting at $189. now if you thought 195 was crazy, look at who Jantxx is competing with. southern california is flooded with Earl Shciebs and hundreds if not thousands of other shops competing for business. so many shops offer high quality work for high prices and most ppl just want to paint a car so they can sell it. he has a market for inexpensive paint jobs so thats what hes specializing in.
Jantxx u’ll find better deals on materials if you find sources that offer deals on bulk purchases. (most do)
i know what ur talking about Jantxx when you say people dont have the money anymore. it used to be people would opt out of a new car and just repaint or repair the car they already have. but since leases have become more affordable many consumers choose not to spend the money anymore. i used to repaint a lot of private cars but that part of the business slowed down and now i mostly focus on giving fleets what they need… fast turnaround & long lasting repairs. the private cars i now do are all mostly collision jobs which to me are so much better profit wise and recently ive found a way to make lease return repairs profitable for us and affordable to the customer. basically your old strategy is dieing out. you need to find what customers are looking to spend money on since trends change with time.
depends gotta see a pic? bed might need to be removed
a faster reducer may be cure but it might also cause dieback. i never sprayed enamels on a car but maybe spray a mist coat on then the next couple of coats are a bit heavier. a single heavy coat will cause you problems since the solvent doesnt evaporate as fast and stays on the surface longer.
maybe u can paint for 195 but everything else is extra like masking, sanding, priming, etc. or you can just paint one type of car like a taxi for example and just specialize in that. seriously if you want to survive it isnt going to be by dropping prices. its like you suggested lowering overhead. or forget the whole 195 paint deal and just do top quality work for less. youll get more approvals and word of mouth business that way and become known for good work at better prices.
my dad used to use it, but always cleared over it and put primer beneath many many years ago.
i think the urethane one drys kinda slow but its the most durable paint they have. whichever one u choose always use a hardener.