i was just informed that the tech sheet was wrong and to call texas randy to confirm that 😆
i use it on the regular, yes if you follow the tech sheet it says to mix it 3:1:1 with the production additiive or reducer, its fine mixing it that way but spray your first coat medium wet, let it flash fully, and the spray your second coat full wet. it wont sag on u or pop, but even if it does it buffs very well after just few hours. doesnt dieback either. good luck
im glad that picture froze at that moment because i dont trust that guy touching your leg. 😛 and thats one giant bag of weed the kids holding. looks like you guys cleared the forest
go with 3m platinum or plus. much better product
thats great news ben. so what didnt you like about the clear?
you can try a steel wool pad. might scratch so test it first. when it becomes too difficult i replace them but they are sometimes pricey.
lot of variables can cause metallic colors to look blotchy but i would begin with using the correct reducer made for the paint brand your using. your paint rep might be right, but personally i find silvers and golds to be sprayed with light passes, meaning somewhat drier, and a little bit higher pressure helps orient the metallic better and give a uniform look.
the iwata is also not my fav gun for base. if u have or can get a tekna with a 7e7 cap youll love that more. anyways, keep the distance of the gun uniform and not too close and you can pull it off.
i pretty much use an rp for everything from sealer to base to clear.
not sure if what im seeing is correct but that looks like a combination of primer shrinkage and bad body work. try blocking what you have now and reprime
ive had it happen when i recoat without letting the clear flash fully on a cold or humid day. only way to fix it is to repaint.
never, but we cut and buff in there occasionally which is just as bad.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=27156]I voted for the camaro 😛 😛 :P[/quote]
x2 :whistle:
it would take me 35 years to buff out 400 grit as well.