MoCoke

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Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 668 total)
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  • November 2, 2012 at 3:43 am #38851

    i was just informed that the tech sheet was wrong and to call texas randy to confirm that 😆

    November 2, 2012 at 3:26 am #38850

    i use it on the regular, yes if you follow the tech sheet it says to mix it 3:1:1 with the production additiive or reducer, its fine mixing it that way but spray your first coat medium wet, let it flash fully, and the spray your second coat full wet. it wont sag on u or pop, but even if it does it buffs very well after just few hours. doesnt dieback either. good luck

    October 28, 2012 at 4:57 am #38821

    im glad that picture froze at that moment because i dont trust that guy touching your leg. 😛 and thats one giant bag of weed the kids holding. looks like you guys cleared the forest

    October 24, 2012 at 3:35 am #38746

    go with 3m platinum or plus. much better product

    October 7, 2012 at 3:57 am #38512

    looks awesome! 😉

    September 20, 2012 at 3:22 am #38332

    thats great news ben. so what didnt you like about the clear?

    September 15, 2012 at 1:50 am #38294

    ^ 😆 ^ 😆 ^ 😆 ^

    September 14, 2012 at 1:40 am #38275

    you can try a steel wool pad. might scratch so test it first. when it becomes too difficult i replace them but they are sometimes pricey.

    September 9, 2012 at 8:03 pm #38238

    lot of variables can cause metallic colors to look blotchy but i would begin with using the correct reducer made for the paint brand your using. your paint rep might be right, but personally i find silvers and golds to be sprayed with light passes, meaning somewhat drier, and a little bit higher pressure helps orient the metallic better and give a uniform look.

    the iwata is also not my fav gun for base. if u have or can get a tekna with a 7e7 cap youll love that more. anyways, keep the distance of the gun uniform and not too close and you can pull it off.

    September 6, 2012 at 3:21 am #38201

    i pretty much use an rp for everything from sealer to base to clear.

    September 6, 2012 at 2:39 am #38197

    not sure if what im seeing is correct but that looks like a combination of primer shrinkage and bad body work. try blocking what you have now and reprime

    August 29, 2012 at 10:59 pm #38084

    ive had it happen when i recoat without letting the clear flash fully on a cold or humid day. only way to fix it is to repaint.

    August 22, 2012 at 4:25 am #37982

    never, but we cut and buff in there occasionally which is just as bad.

    August 22, 2012 at 4:23 am #37981

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=27156]I voted for the camaro 😛 😛 :P[/quote]

    x2 :whistle:

    August 16, 2012 at 6:24 pm #37874

    it would take me 35 years to buff out 400 grit as well.

Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 668 total)