Josh
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I’m using the Marson Platinum filler and 3M gold sand paper to do my hand blocking. I’ve been trying to get the filler as close as I can with the spreader, then I rough it out with some 180 grit on the DA, and block by hand with 180. Advice or critique on this process or product selection is appreciated.
The project is more restoration based than repair based (it’s an 87 Buick Regal with a turbo charged V6) and it’s going to be a very dark black, so I’m spending more time straightening it than any other car I’ve done to date. It seems like it’s taking an awfully long time for me to get it blocked flat, I’ve been working on getting it flat for a week now, and it’s still not ready for hi-build primer.
Just looking for an easier way is all.
How did it turn out?
We were hoping to match the paint color on the body, powder would look nice but won’t match.
After having a conversation with the customer that was largely based on the information and advice in this thread, he has asked me to sand the bumpers as best I can, etch, prime, base, and clear. There was a lot of rationalizing going on, “The car won’t get driven much, it lives in a garage, etc…”
Hopefully, the job holds up well. I’ll post pictures once it’s done.
Thanks for the tips! I’ll let you know how they turn out.
Ah ha, thanks!
That is fantastic.
I quit a pretty well paying corporate sales job to paint cars in my garage Decemeber 26th of last year, so I sort of know how you feel. Congrats!
I follow you on the base and primer acting a bit like blotting paper, and I follow you on the second treatment of clear having more shine because it’s not being polluted by the base coat.
On stuff that I’m going to do multiple treatments of clear, my process goes like this:
-Primer, base until coverage, 3 coats of clear.
-I wait until I can’t leave a finger print in the clear, then wet sand with 600 and a soft block. I try to cut out as much of the orange peel and debris as I can, but I’m always afraid I’ll go through so I usually err on the side of leaving a bit of peel or debris.
-More clear. Usually two, sometimes three coats.Then I’ll dry sand with 1500 on a DA. Normally, I go straight to buffing after that. Sometimes I’ll go back and wetsand it with 2000 on a soft block if I’m having trouble getting the haze out of it with the buffer.
I’m not sure what you mean when you say, “solids jobs”. My lack of understanding the terminology makes me think you are adding up to 25% high solid clear into your base coat, but I’d like to be sure.
I’m sorry to be such a pain, but I’d really like to understand what you are describing. Thanks for the help and advice.
All of the horizontal panels are in epoxy (thank God).
However, the roof and hood have some pitting that has rust in the bottom of the craters. After talking with the customer, media blasting isn’t really an option, so per that video we are going to try some rust mort from SEM.
I lower the lift after doing the roof so the make shift platform is not in the way. However, the columns are kind of a pain in the ass sometimes.
With a car that I can reach the roof, I usually do it with the vehicle on the lift. I can pick it up to get the rockers and stuff. It seems like i get less debris in the clear if I raise the car to max height the instant I am done spraying it. It gets the car up and out of the overspray, and I guess most of the dust and dirt comes off the floor, so it moves the car further away from that as well.
Thanks!
I just looked at the pics, and to me it seems like it would be tough to see much of anything in them. I’ll try to get some better shots of the current project and post them up once it’s all done.
This Tundra was done with Omni 170 epoxy, PPG Deltron base, and DC2021 clear. I don’t have many pictures of this one.
I managed to get the deck lid for the trunk into Epoxy today. I ran over it with 120 to knock off several days of the flash rusting, washed it with dish soap and water, dried it, air dried it, mixed the DP90LF with 401, while it induced for 30 minutes I wiped the panel with the sikkens prep wipes recommended here. In just that 1/2 an hour, the panel was already starting to turn orange again. I wiped it one last time with a dry paper towel and put the Epoxy on it.
Hoping to repeat that process on the entire car tomorrow.
Thoughts or criticisms of my process?
So you are doing 25% more clear in the mix than the TDS calls for?
