Josh
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Yes, it’s the rust that forms in just a few hours (or minutes it seems like).
The chemical stripper was on the car for roughly 30 minutes before being hit with water, so it wasn’t neutralized immediately.
I’m going to prime it panel by panel removing the rust as I go. The rust comes back so fast that I can’t make a complete lap around the car removing it – by the time I get back around to where I started, the rust has started to regrow.
Blasting the car would be great, but I don’t have the equipment to do it. If that’s the only way to get where I want to go, I’ll go ahead and make the investment, but I’d like to avoid that if possible.
Thanks for the advice, I’ll steer clear of the acid and other rust converters / preventives.
I’ve tried quickbooks, and it would appear that I’m not intelligent enough to use it properly.
Any other suggestions?
It’s certainly possible that I’m doing it wrong. While it’s impossible to lay out all of the nuances of my paint work, I try to emulate the you tube videos of John Kosmoski. The, “I’m a robot” type of thing is what I shoot for.
My first attempt at the depth look was:
MP170 Epoxy primer over a mixture of bare metal, old base coat, and filler. 2 coats. Wait an hour.
MP282 Hi build over that, 2 coats. Wait until tomorrow.-Both sprayed medium wet with a Devilbiss Starting Line gun. 1.8 tip, about 40 PSI at the base of the gun. More PSI and I start to get what looks like dried dust at the edge of my spray patter.
600 wet on a soft block over the whole car.
5 coats of Ford Candy Apple Red in DBC. It has no metallic, and is not a candy color. It’s just a dead, flat red. Tacked between coats.-All 5 sprayed light with an IR270G, 1.5 tip, 53 PSI at handle.
3 coats of DC2021
600 wet
3 coats of DC2021.-All clear sprayed with SATA 4000 RP. First coat, light to medium. Second and third coats as heavy as I feel like I can apply it without creating runs.
Sand with 1500
Sand with 2000
Buff / polish / waxThe car turned out great. No complaints. But it still looks like a nice OEM paint job, nothing like the super depth I see at car shows from time to time.
I’ve tried two panels with black DBC in this manner with similar results. Great, if you are looking for a nice OEM look, but it doesn’t have the, “I’ll lose my mind if I look at this too long” impression.
I have also tried the above process with 10% base in the first coat of clear, and 5% base in the second coat. I am unable to tell a difference in finished product.
In my limited experience the PPG Deltron system seems to be on the upper end of what most repair places use. However, I’m not experienced enough to know what you mean (or really what the industry means) when they say ‘cheap materials.’ It’s entirely possible that the Deltron (which I kinda consider my premium paint) is something that most pros consider cheap or poor quality.
If you were looking for the “staring into infinity” look, what kind of materials would you use?
I can’t express how much I appreciate the help guys, thank you very much.
It irritates me when people ask for help, and then complain about it. You are getting help, from people who know more than you, for free. Someone, who knows more than you, is taking the time out of their life to share with you. Listen to them.
Just for the sake of increasing my own knowledge, why should you not put base in clear? Is the reasoning behind that based on the uncertainty of the chemicals and their compatibility with one another?
3 coats of clear, 600 wet, and another three coats of clear yields good results for me; but it has never produced the deep look that I’m hoping to achieve. Any other tips?
Spraying at night in their facility, or at your house / shop?
At their place, I’d say they can dictate what you do or don’t. On your time, at your own place, I don’t think they really have much to stand on. If it really becomes an issue, a local HR attorney is probably your best bet.