Brian
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Thats what I am thinking as well ding, nothing bigger then a bumper here.
[b]Papipab wrote:[/b]
[quote]I think Ryan hit the nail on the head. A painter has to adjust himself to his environment. At the shop I worked at before almost every car had one or two fisheyes.(Thats what your problem is ,Ryans right solvent pop are little bubbles in heavy build areas or it happens from using the wrong hardner or thinner for the temperature your working in.)You could try to isolate the problem. Waxes with silicone is the first thing I would get rid of because thats what we did and it works. Try to stop using the hand soap.I never used that in the shops I’ve worked in. You’ll never solve the fisheye issue on every car but you can get to were they don’t happen as much or as bad. Good Luck :cheer:[/quote]You know, comet worked great, now they have added bleach and I cannot find an original. Any ideas? Just don’t use soap in general? back and forth on this one lol
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]20 minutes flash with fast activator at 85 degrees??? I would think that would be way to long. I would be scared of it lifting.A different clear may work better and may not. Would be worth trying though. It would be one more thing to eliminate. Hey not every product was made for every person. Got to find what works for YOU! Did you have a problem with craters using PPG?[/quote]Well, I had only done that 20 minutes flash time (as recommened) once as a try (today) and it failed. First coat went on great, second coat went on beautiful, 20 minutes later it wrinkled up resulting in an orange peel look. Back when i first used the DC3000, I had bad contamination issues and didn’t have my Iwata either so I am eager again to try it out. Back in those days I would have fisheyes that would show up as i sprayed my first coat of clear, I would like to think I have moved on from those days, so I want to try that out since it has 3-5 flash times, which I like for my small stuff.
Ryan, you have a good way of putting things into perspective. In reality all I have is the forum for guidance since I am doing this all on my own, so i appreciate the support. I am using prep towels from my jobber, and two seprate ones when using the solvent and water based wax and grease removers. I am really stuck, not sure what it is, i have used a couples hoses with the same problem. I am thinking about stepping away from SPI, just because I am so confused on their flash times. I was told to wait 20 minutes inbetween coats, or wait until I can run my finger across the clear without it sticking, however in their tech sheet, it says flash times for my activator are 5-8 minutes.
I am tempted to go back to DC3000 just for the reason of having a solid tech sheet with set in stone flsh times to follow.
Whenever you come down here Ryan, your going to have to stop by!
If you scroll up to the first post, you can see I used the solvent based and water based cleaners.
Barry from SPI, said it is Solvent pop, which makes sense since i don’t see them in my first pass.I am going to wait much longer on my flash time and try that out.
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]Ahhh, I was gonna say you either have some metallics from a dirty gun or solvent pop.It’s hard to say Nex. I think you have tried about everything to get rid of them. I would just dab some clear in the crater while it’s wet, then knock it down and buff. There are still times when I will get one or two in a paintjob at work. You can’t always eliminate all problems, you just have to find solutions. that’s what being a good painter is about, being able to fix things when they go array.[/quote]
Your right Ryan, I have tried just about everything lol. Any chance it might be solvent pop? I am using a fast catalyst, so I am allowing 5-6min flash times as per tech sheet. Maybe I will try to wait a bit longer, and see what it does.
Ryan, I stupidly dusted on silver metallic on another grille while i had the first coat of clear already on this black grille. that is just silver metallic that floated over. Before I redo the black grille, i wanted to snap some pics of my problem.
What more can be said then a job VERY well done!
That really looks good to me, doesn’t look makeshift at all!
b]Joe@FCAB wrote:[/b]
[quote]The only concern I would have is it pulling away from the urethane.. Might hold for awhile, but next time I would use fusor 152 and some backing mesh.[/quote]
I had that concern which is why I glassed the filler to the urethane, but you will see below how I am most likely going to use different materials should a job like this arise again.[b]dturcotte wrote:[/b]
[quote]How long does it take you to assemble that booth nex??[/quote]
With an extra person, about 5 minutes. Takes longer to take it out heh[b]Han wrote:[/b]
[quote]Brian, i like the way you work. Lots of attention to detail! But i’d have to
agree with Joe. You may want to consider other materials. It’s gonna cost more,
but charge more!Anyhow, keep posting![/quote]
Glad you notice the attention to detail! I am going to get some fibertech which was recommend by blover for this exact type of work. Bonds well to this type of material and is flexible. Main reason I use duraglass is because it is what I am to use to when I shape things.[b]Joe@FCAB wrote:[/b]
[quote]Forgot to mention it does look good!!You kinda remind me of myself about 15-16 years ago. I got heavy into those body kits when I first started out, was very picky! Was nothing to spend 40hrs on a bumper to make it right. I have come a long ways from those days.. Cant say I miss them much! You keep doing fine detailed work like that you could have a good future in this business, or keep it hobby and make a few bucks on the side!! Nice work![/quote]
It is definitely a hobby that I enjoy thoroughly, just to be able to shape things to fit and then paint over them as if it came like that from the factory is what I find the most rewarding. I guess it is a compliment if I remind you of yourself =)[b]Kevin Campbell wrote:[/b]
[quote]I agree, end result looks awesome, but I also messed around with bodykits, and know how they can be.One tap against a parking curb, and “pop” there goes your fill job. It looked like when he was filling against the tape the first time it pulled off to start.
Add a little flexibility to it using a similar material and it goes a long way in preventing future problems. When you have dissimilar expansion characteristics between fiberglass and urethane, who knows what would happen.
Now if it had been a fiberglass air dam. he’d be right on target.
I know you’re just starting out, just trying to point you in the right direction.[/quote]
I never take offense to anything and I know some people do. My background is fiberglass for five years now so it is more of a natural material to use fiberglass for reinforcement because I am just so darn use to working it with. At any rate, as stated above, i am going to try some fibertech. Would you recommend anything else. it just so hard to get anything to bond to an edge of plastic and expect it not break off.Installed the lip today and we couldn’t be happier, it is perfect. Job well done, glad I took my time on this one.
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8628.jpg[/IMG]So that it will be strong in those areas, the areas in which the lip was modified do not move worth a bend at all because of the thickness of the plastic behind it.
[B]Update.
So the first two coats of primers gets blocked out with 180, then 220. it was sanded down then put back in the booth for one final coat of primer[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8499.jpg[/IMG][B]I had to replace the filters before I started basecoat, the primer made a mess out of them, I will probably never primer in the booth again.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8504.jpg[/IMG][B]Once the 3rd coat of primer dried, it got DA’ed just a bit with 400 grit, then I sanded it down with 600 wet with palmolive (original), rinsed it off and let it dry.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8512.jpg[/IMG][B]Fans hooked up and ready to go.[/B]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8514.jpg[/IMG][B]Solvent Based and Water Based Wax and grease remover, solvent comes first, then waterbased. Solvent removes contaminants such as wax, grease silicone (armor al), waterbased removes contaminates from body oils (fingerprints).[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8518.jpg[/IMG][B]Devilbiss Sri-W 1.0mm tip, and PPG Deltron Basecoat., reduces 1:1 (medium reducer). I use hi flow couplers and a diaphragm regulator on base and clear.[/B][IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8519.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8521.jpg[/IMG][B]New tack rag[/B]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8529.jpg[/IMG][B]Basecoat Down, 8-10 minutes flat time.[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8534.jpg[/IMG][B]Iwata LPH400–, 1.4mm, 22psi, 2 turns out on fluid, wipe open fan, fast reducer, 6 minutes flash time, two coats wet on wet. Couple nibs to buff out, can’t win them all ;)[/B]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8561.jpg[/IMG][B]Booth saying good bye for now.[/B]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8564.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_8566.jpg[/IMG]looks good to me. Are those final piuctures suppose to show the blotchy defect, because i dont see anything wrong.
Glad it made sense, because I had a tough time explaning it lol