Brian

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  • May 11, 2010 at 8:34 am #21153

    I use the rattle can because I just want to see where I need to continue filling in areas. I don’t use it to “prime”. Once i see a completely smooth contour, I went over the whole thing with 2k for protection.

    So pretty much I am using the rattle can so I dont have to keep loading up the paint gun (and cleaning) while I am doing the body work, I want to finalize it with rattle can then go over the whole thing witht he 2k.

    May 11, 2010 at 4:31 am #21148

    hey, thanks you!

    here is an Update…!

    So today I sanded down the rest of those areas with the rattle can primer in preparation for the 2k primer. First though I cleaned the whole lip with some Palm-Olive Original, then I used Scuff Stuff and a Scotch Brite Gray Pad, to scuff up all the remaining bare plastic areas. I followed that up with a rinse off. At that point in time it was ready to be primed. I pulled the lip into the booth and put a coat of adhesion promoter on and then put two coats up 2k primer on there. It now needs to be sanded down with about 180-220, then I will reprime one more. Once it was dry, I made myself a makeshift bumper stand.

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    May 10, 2010 at 6:53 am #21121

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    May 9, 2010 at 6:14 am #21099

    [B]So now that the glass has been sanded down, you are going to have some defects of course, so in this case I use a flexible body filler. Not a whole lot is needed, we just trying to get it smooth, not build up the surface. this get sanded down with 80-120[/B]
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    [B]Now we are ready for some 2k thick build primer to lock down those body repairs. Although it is good to spray this out of the gun for ease, it will still work just as well with a foam brush. I prefer the foam brush so that I can build it up in areas I want too. I do about 6 minutes in between three coats. it doesn’t need to go on perfect, it would actually be better to run it, to get it really thick. [/B]
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    [B]The slicksand gets sanded down from 80-120.[/B]
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    [B]Now I can go over it with SEM Hi Build to fill in my minor sanding scratches and to check for any pinhole defects. This area gets tapped off and gets a couple coats. [/B]
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    [B]Here I am just filling in small pinholes with spot putty, along with any sanding scratches I see. It will get sanded down and reprimed.[/B]
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    [B]Here is where I failed to take before pictures, but about an inch of the inner lip needed to be cut off because it hit the inner OEM grill. I got a VERY nice cut off the jigsaw as a matter of fact. It actually went through like butter and I was able to follow my tape line quite well. I used my durablock and 36 grit to perfectly shape it.[/B]
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    [B]Here are a couple of pictures of the opposite side that was completed previously! More pictures to come, which will include some more test fits and the painting process.[/B]
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    May 1, 2010 at 5:55 am #20983

    I have to update with pictures of the frames i built for the filters.

    April 29, 2010 at 10:55 pm #20960

    The jacket is actually the nylon material that makes the “swooshing” sound (not cotton), so it works quite well. I was going to get a painters suite until I realized I could just use this jacket. I am getting better results I believe because I am covered up more.

    April 23, 2010 at 6:05 pm #20806

    Did you just buy a ready made spoiler for a car and modify it?

    April 22, 2010 at 1:40 am #20786

    The fans are pulling crap out and the filters are showing the results, time to replace them already!!

    The top plastic ceiling works wonders. Its amazing the difference in the results!

    April 21, 2010 at 5:27 am #20777

    here’s another!

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    April 19, 2010 at 8:33 pm #20756

    Thanks Guys!

    Ryan, it SEM Hi-Build Surfacer, $20 for a can, so I use it on small projects like this. Anything bigger, I would pop out the gun, but that primer works fantastic.

    April 19, 2010 at 1:16 am #20743

    HAPPY BIRTHDAY BONDO!!!

    STAY FOREVER YOUNG :cheer:

    April 14, 2010 at 5:22 am #20656

    i see the damage now, lol

    hope he made his wife angry =)

    April 3, 2010 at 4:21 am #20515

    Thank you guys!!

    I changed it up a bit today. Don’t mind the hack duct tape!

    I got 4 new good filters. Replaced the one on top and added another one for fresh air.

    On the bottom, opposite side, i replaced the old filter and added one more. i then took the fan from the top which was blowing air in before and moved it to the bottom, so this way i have two fans pulling air out!

    I also patched up the old door and added a zipper door!

    Its so weird to paint something in a booth and just watch the clear lay down. this booth is fantastic!

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    March 29, 2010 at 7:52 pm #20447

    [b]dturcotte wrote:[/b]
    [quote]Nex, that is some seriously nice work you are doing with the kickpanels! I’m blown away your only charging 275.00 that is a lot of work! Do you ever have any trouble with the fiberglass bonding with the plastic? Do you have any little tricks to share with us? Again very nice work!![/quote]

    Thanks there bud! I did seriously under charge, but it was my first set of kicks, so I really didn’ know how much to charge, oh well, I see it more as an opportunity!

    Fiberglass to plastic can be troubling, however it is more of getting the fleece to stick to the plastic then anything else. Key is to grind the heck out of the plastic with the dremel, then use CA glue under and over the fleece. Once the fleece is resined and dried, sand the edges all down. Some edges where the fleece meets the plastic will actually become very brittle, which is no big deal. The key here is to get some epoxy and mend together the fleece and the plastic (the white stuff). After that, I just have very good luck with the mat sticking over anything else. I think it is the resin I am using.

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    March 27, 2010 at 10:30 pm #20420

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