Brian
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mud flaps are different though as well because they come with a textured finish and need to be sanded down and primed nd then sanded down. I know they would require more work esp. since i just got down doing some 😉
lol, nelson, im not sure wether to belivbe you or not lol
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote]Cool setup nex, good thing you’ve got the Iwata’s…. find they produce less overspray then most guns. Need to drill a fan out the side or top so you can tackle some completes, neighbors may not like it though… looks like your well equipt![/quote]before with any other gun with the clear, I was in a cloud of overspray in seconds. With the iwata there is like no overspray!. I wont be painting cars in my garage. Biggest thing I will paint is a bumper but I like the idea of a fan, but a $15 box fan is out of the question(explosion). Any suggestions on a non explosion fan? I wanted to build a mini paint booth but it just is not worth it for every time i have to paint. i wish they had a blow up small one.I wanted to show you all my setup since we all sort of know where we come from by now
^ I actually got a hold on my contamination issues! completely gone.
Not sure what it came from but now I am using PPG wax and grease remover; solvent based and water based. I switched over to prep wipes and I use the w&G all the time. I also started to use palmolive orignal before anything. To add to that i added that whole twist of piping behind the storm shutters, replaced the air dyer cartiage and added a new in line filter/dryer right before the gun.
With all of that, my issues are completely gone, it is so nice to finally be able to learn how to paint.
For wetting the floor. I take my squirt bottle and spray down the floor and my stand. Not drench, but just enough. Oh yea.. I also have been taking my shirt off to cut down on dust..
how about how to adjust your gun for clear
ever get bad enough that you peel in between clear coat application?
Looks great jimmo. You lay the clear on there so darn nice, it is amazing and inspiring to see. After each mess up outside in the garage, I come in and rewatch some of your videos and bondos, now I have two more to watch.
looks like the mask can be a pain but also looks like it is easy to get use to after a while. What actually gets changed on the mask so that the lens doesnt get overspray on it. Is it a film you peel off like the nascar windsheild?
I know the work i do is different but i deal alot with sanding scratches since i work with fiberglass and I am mainly shaping things, however i use red spot putty which sands so easy. I spread it with my finger and it fills the scratch and then primer over it. Never fails. No hardener, drives in 25 minutes
sucks about the blend panel. It is hard to see how bad it is in the pictures, but I know what you mean. Almost makes you want to fix the door because you will have one smoioth panel next to a dingy panel..
Quick ?
Do you get new emblems? I imagine you cant reapply them once you take them off. Espescially the word ones.
Well, thanks for helping me out here. The last three days have been hell. I had my whole new line together (added to existing line), with clamps to my concrete only to see that once I turn the air on, that just about every joint had a leak. I used telfon tape on all the joints, which was the cause of the problem. After some internet research i found i could use Black permatex silicone on the thread. With the pipe only hand tight that stuff did the trick!!. Wow!! so this stuff totally doesnt not come off yoru hands. I had it everywhere, and I mean everywhere. Laquaer thinner didnt take it off. On a trip to lowes i had to walk with my hands in my pockets and drove there with gloves on!. BTW i am not one for wearing gloves when working with epoxies. It is easier to spread with my bare hands.
At any rate, I added about 8 more feet of pipe to my system and an extra water drop off. It looks sweet, but jeezus it was a pain!. I learned what a Union was, and boy or boy did it help, I was able to build my pipes on the ground and join them together on the wall.
Pictures coming soon! If it doesnt do anything, at least it looks good lol!
LOL well I sort of have the whole system hooked up with black iron, so if i shouldnt have to worry about then that sounds good to me!
what is it with suby’s and getting hiot in the rear quarter panel where you live lol
BTW looking great!
You can always chemically strip the paint if you have the time and elbow grease.
I never use wool pads period. I am just not a fan of them. With foam, i have more control of where I am buffing and I know where the pad ends. Sometimes with the wool pads, you will burn through on plastic on the ends of the wool.
I use Lake County pads and I always start with a yellow pad and a rough cutting compound, before I know it I am done. Just nib them out with 1500, get the nib completely out with 1500 and then 2000 where the nib was and about an inch around the surrounding area. Of course use a block.
good tip, still waiting on the waterbased cleaner (wasn’t in stock at jobber). Still have to give that a try as well. I agree with you that the problem can still exist Jim. Thanks for the tip on the two kinds of sealers. That is something i am going to look into.