Chris
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I do it sometimes, too. Especially where the damage is a bit close to an edge and you don’t want the repair area to grow too much and leave you with not enough room to blend. Only use the Dupont Fine Fill though, not normal lightweight filler. You do need to be careful not to oversand.
I’ll stand corrected then, Scott. While we have Deltron, the cheaper line here is Cobra and colour matches in that are identical to Deltron for the same colour and variant. I use Cromax in the shop and it’s exactly the same situation there with the cheaper L400 and 610 colours being the same as the premium 6000 line. The only difference being, as I said, that sometimes an extra coat is required.
Impressive. :clappy
I think that the important point here is that there should be absolutely no difference in colour between the Omni and the Deltron, assuming of course that you are using the same variant. The Deltron’s advantage is that it contains more of whatever colours are in it and the tinters are stronger while the Omni is a little “weaker” and may require an extra coat to get the same coverage level. Deltron has a place in higher volume shops where coverage can be obtained in 1.5 – 2 coats and it has fairly fast flash times so that booth usage can be held to a minimum and productivity increased. The Omni may be a little slower but in a hobbyist application the time isn’t such an issue, nor is the need to use a third coat. Three coats of Omni, though, will probably cost a lot less than two coats of Deltron.
I would use the Omni and go with 2.5 coats over a Value Shade 7 base (primer or sealer). You may only need 2 coats but check on a spray out card first.
Not really creative – just concrete paint, but the better quality stuff. Usually re-do it once a year, by which time it’s become a bit rough in the middle with overspray. Once done I can then hose out and squeegee the floor which I usually do once or twice a week with a vacuum each day.
[IMG]http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss334/cprscc/Painting/Booth002_zps39c5be9e.jpg[/IMG]
When a bar is primed in a factory it’s done properly with correct technology to ensure adhesion between plastic and primer. There is no need to remove the primer and you run the risk of damaging the surface of the plastic, requiring more work to rectify, not to mention that you may or may not have access to the correct products to ensure adhesion.
If it is a 1K primer on there from the factory and you remove it and replace it with another 1K primer you’ve achieved nothing, maybe gone backwards. Every layer that you put on increases the risk of something going wrong and increases thickness which could promote chipping. The factory primer may seem thin but it is thick enough to do its job and still remain flexible.
Really. Just clean it, scuff it and paint it. Job done.
For your other panels, if the paint is sound and in good condition then, yes, Scotchbrite and paint will be fine. Use a scuffing compound with your Scotchbrite to maximise adhesion. Any repaired areas will need to be primed – just those areas. No need to prime the whole panel. This also allows you to blend your colour coat in case the colour match isn’t quite perfect. If the scratch isn’t deep it may just sand out – easier, quicker and possibly better than trying to fill it and having edges to feather.
Bumpers don’t normally have a “transportation” primer like metal panels. They’re either primed, or they’re not. If primed then I Prepsol, scuff well, wash and paint. The use of an acrylic primer is common – all reconditionsed bars have it here. No problem, treat as above.
Agreed. Your estimate is based on a visual inspection and there is often stuff that comes to light after dismantling. Owner doesn’t get to see the supplementaries so the initial time estimate can be out by an enormous amount. That’s not counting things like parts that are out of stock or other things out of your control. Seems sorted anyway. Strange how often customers don’t understand repair times. I had one today who I told that the job would take two days. She said “Oh good. I can drop it lunchtime and pick it up lunchtime the next day”. :S
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Can’t say I’ve ever heard them called anything other than a fisheye actually, but I live in canada. maybe a language barrier like I said. Sorry for any confusion[/quote]Come and spend a minute in my booth when I get one. You’ll hear them called a lot more than fisheyes. 👿 Won’t be any language barrier. Even a Canadian will understand exactly what I mean. 😉
I do agree on the waterbased cleaning though. Has made a difference for us too. Makes sense really given that there are both water and solvent based silicones. Prepsol will get one kind and the waterbased cleaner will get the other.
Yeah, I get the odd one or two. Not really what we do but I generally quote $10,000 including minor repairs for same colour, $15,000 for a different colour and $25-30K for any kind of custom work. Sorts them out pretty quick. 😉
Or, for the flat black requests, I refer them to the vinyl wrap guys who’ll do a whole car for about $3,500.
😆 The SP is the original, factory is in Japan. [url]http://www.spair.co.jp/en/[/url]
They’re quite big here in Australia. Good solid air tools and a huge range of other tools as well, all top quality.
That was a killer deal you got. That same tool has a list price of $319 here.
[url]http://www.sptools.com/en/product-list-2014/air-tools/air-tools-en/die-grinders/1-4dr-die-grinder-angled-polymer-body-air-operated.html[/url]Just so we’re on the same page, I call full downdraught where air comes in from ceiling and out through grates in floor to pit(s) underneath. Semi downdraught air comes in through ceiling and out along bottom of wall(s).
The full downdraught are nice but a semi downdraught can be as good or better if set up/designed right. I’ve worked in one which had exits spaced along the side walls was maybe the best I’ve ever used but another which only had exits in the centre had strange airflows and dead spots. I like the idea of pulling the air, along with any dust that I’m creating, away from the job rather than past it. Raised floor booths are the pits. Rather have a semi downdraught.
It’s quite difficult to give a generic answer to this. It really depends on what else you have to do. For example, working by myself I’m really lucky if I can produce 6-7 hours of paying work in a day when I’m usually here for 12 hours. I answer phones, talk to customers, supervise staff. do quotes and admin, plus a myriad of other things.
However, from an employee, I expect that they, with suitable experience, produce at least 7 paying hours per 8 hour day while a good tradesman should be able to produce 9-10. That’s because they’re efficient and can overlap jobs, using dead time allowed for to be doing something else that is productive.
If you want some benchmarks then have a look at the quotes that relate to the jobs you’re doing. They will generally include a labour component in hours. Alternately, there are online sites where you can put together a quote using known times for various tasks. One that I use is http://www.crashzone.com.au – if you use the NTAR times then they’re fairly realistic.
I’d suggest that, although he may deny it, your boss is very much aware of the times that it should take to do a job. He is, I’d think, probably giving you a chance to get some practical experience under your belt before putting you under any pressure to complete jobs in specific times. If he’s not talking to you about it then he’s probably happy with how you’re going.
Rules of thumb:
Under primer – P400
Under base – P800
Under clear – P1200-P1500It’s generally held that grey Scotch is the equivalent of P800 but I’ve had scratches still visible from P800 under clear. If using paper I like to use P1200 or P1500