nick
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We have been spraying this clear for a few years now & it is a really good clear. Great gloss and durability, easy to buff. We spray around 75 degrees F & have found that a combo of 75% mid temp and 25% high temp activator works well. And even though it says 20% reducer we go 25% because this clear is so thick. Try it out, works great for us. Only thing I have noticed is that if the clear is buffed the same day as being painted- then put out in the hot sun, some of the sand marks can reappear.
[quote=”jimmo” post=27897]I love the 3M accuspray system, but its a slightly larger investment. I used to use a devilbiss starterline gun that held up pretty well, it was around $100.[/quote]
X2 on the 3M Accuspray system. A little bit for the gun but when we bought it the 3M Rep gave us about a years supply of the tips. This gun has plastic disposable tips and they say to through out after every use but we have been able to clean and get three or four uses out of each. Sprays great with very little overspray.
If you have 3 coats of clear you should have enough material to go over it again w/ 2000. But if its feeling rough due to dry spray then you should be very careful that you don’t break through or you will be refinishing the whole thing again. Is it a metal or plastic bumper?
Cracks and rips can be repaired on plastic bumpers. But not with this method. Hopefully you still have the square that was taken out by the hitch. The backside should be repaired with a structural plastic repair product (we use Fusor 142) along with a fiberglass mesh for reinforcment. Make sure the repair area is scuffed with 36 grit grinder and an adhesion promotor applied if the plastic is a polyolefin. The front side would also need the adhesion promotor but only scuff with 80 or 180. Apply the 142 to the cracked area, sand, reapply the adhesion promotor then apply a cosmetic repair filler like Fusor 114. Sand with 180, feather, prime, paint. And dont let them paint out side.
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