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  • November 6, 2012 at 7:32 pm #38923

    Mid temp activator 483-84, High temp 483-85. Reducer is nason 441-21

    November 6, 2012 at 7:29 pm #38922

    We have been spraying this clear for a few years now & it is a really good clear. Great gloss and durability, easy to buff. We spray around 75 degrees F & have found that a combo of 75% mid temp and 25% high temp activator works well. And even though it says 20% reducer we go 25% because this clear is so thick. Try it out, works great for us. Only thing I have noticed is that if the clear is buffed the same day as being painted- then put out in the hot sun, some of the sand marks can reappear.

    November 3, 2012 at 7:21 am #38875

    Sounds like lots of roof replacements. Must have been some nasty hail. You guys don’t get forced into having PDR done on your hail jobs?

    November 1, 2012 at 11:51 pm #38845

    No Problem. Glad its back.

    October 25, 2012 at 4:20 pm #38787

    [quote=”jimmo” post=27897]I love the 3M accuspray system, but its a slightly larger investment. I used to use a devilbiss starterline gun that held up pretty well, it was around $100.[/quote]

    X2 on the 3M Accuspray system. A little bit for the gun but when we bought it the 3M Rep gave us about a years supply of the tips. This gun has plastic disposable tips and they say to through out after every use but we have been able to clean and get three or four uses out of each. Sprays great with very little overspray.

    October 24, 2012 at 6:24 am #38755

    Welcome to the forum. Lots of great info and advice.

    October 23, 2012 at 11:16 pm #38742

    If you have 3 coats of clear you should have enough material to go over it again w/ 2000. But if its feeling rough due to dry spray then you should be very careful that you don’t break through or you will be refinishing the whole thing again. Is it a metal or plastic bumper?

    October 19, 2012 at 12:51 am #38686

    Welcome to the site

    October 18, 2012 at 5:17 pm #38680

    Calls for rivets and Panel Bond Adhesive together along the top and bottom flange areas

    October 16, 2012 at 4:14 pm #38663

    Jayson- Northern Mich. Tons of snow and even more salt on the roads. But we’ve been spraying Cromax for over 2 years now and this is the first time this has come up. Hope its the only time.

    October 15, 2012 at 9:56 pm #38644

    Welcome

    May 24, 2012 at 12:21 am #36999

    Cracks and rips can be repaired on plastic bumpers. But not with this method. Hopefully you still have the square that was taken out by the hitch. The backside should be repaired with a structural plastic repair product (we use Fusor 142) along with a fiberglass mesh for reinforcment. Make sure the repair area is scuffed with 36 grit grinder and an adhesion promotor applied if the plastic is a polyolefin. The front side would also need the adhesion promotor but only scuff with 80 or 180. Apply the 142 to the cracked area, sand, reapply the adhesion promotor then apply a cosmetic repair filler like Fusor 114. Sand with 180, feather, prime, paint. And dont let them paint out side.

Viewing 12 posts - 31 through 42 (of 42 total)