nick
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
if you have mains gas supply
gas boiler and regular radiators like the ones you see in a house seen this done many times and it works, no flames to worry about.
Hi welcome
Nick from scotland
[quote=”AAE” post=18927]what are hot staples?[/quote]
http://www.refinishnetwork.com/component/kunena/Gallery/15623-plastic-staple-repair-system?Itemid=0
.
Lord fusor or hot staples for me
Never quite managed to master plastic welding :blush:
dished area is as good as a groove
There is a reason for the dish.
When you apply a fusor like material to a repair area sometimes it will lift at the edges as you sand.
The reason for this is the repair material heats up at a different rate to the substrate plastic, this is why there is sometimes a lift of the repair material,
The repair material is a lot harder than the bumper, so the two heat up at different rates. The result can sometimes be a separation .
If you dish it enough and dont overfill fill with the bond material you can leave it unsanded for maximum strength and fill the rest of the dished area with a flexible filler witch will sand easier and not lift on the edges.
.
lol i feel for you andy big area for a three stage job
We painted a ford ka that colour last year full respray, better you would rather have painted that instead of the hilux lol
Good job though looks good
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=18521][quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=18520][quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=18510]Can superior 250 or the energy pro be used over solvent?[/quote]
[quote]The Superior says on the can for autowave only (not go over solvent). I assume the energy pro is the same[/quote]
That is more than likely Sikkens attempt and stopping customers bastardizing the product, i.e. they want you to put their clear over their base, this quite a common statement on TDS sheets.
It is just a solvent based clear after all[/quote]
It will delam when put over solvent. Ding knows why, he told me but I cant remember exactly what it is. Something like it is missing the molecule that lets the tail solvents out.[/quote]
[quote] that lets the tail solvents out [/quote]
Interesting tail solvents out of the solvent base do you mean ?
[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=18510]Can superior 250 or the energy pro be used over solvent?[/quote]
[quote]The Superior says on the can for autowave only (not go over solvent). I assume the energy pro is the same[/quote]
That is more than likely Sikkens attempt and stopping customers bastardizing the product, i.e. they want you to put their clear over their base, this quite a common statement on TDS sheets.
It is just a solvent based clear after all
looks like gypsy’s vehicle to me they always seem to like the bling bling effect
[quote=”Andy T” post=18431]Glad you like it Ryan :dnc
Nick – We use the 1500 Polarstar discs for buzzing down any excess peel after painting (not on my jobs of course 😆 ), but I’ll get some 1000 and give them a try, as we’re currently using their Q Silver 1200. Thanks for the idea.[/quote]
sorry maybe i was not very clear :blush:
I ment we use p1000 polarstar for prepping blend panels and surrounding paintwork on repair areas
[quote=”Andy T” post=18327]Yep, they’re the ones.
Those pads are also perfect for nibbing down any defects in water base. Either dry, or with a little solvent degreaser as a lubricant 🙂
[/quote]
Just a little note on anybody ever using Lesonal waterborne dont go near it with panel wipe/ degreaser the base will turn to mush, we aslo scuff dry with the same pads.
I have no probs using degreaser and scuff pads on other waterborne basecoats, just lesonal that does not like it.
Andy we sometimes go as low as 800 da discs to prep the surrounding panels, though you do have to watch the edges, but a fair bit quicker than 1000-1200
Mirka polarstar 1000 disc’s are the best i have ever used much better than 3M.
[quote=”RatStang” post=18415]I wonder why they don’t use these floor type systems very much any more.
They seem quite nice/compact in comparison to a lot of the racks they got nowadays. Maybe not quite as adjustable, and not quite as easy to use electronic body gauges, But the floor space saved sure would be nice.[/quote]that is a very old version
The slightly newer version same floor layout has a small lift sunk into the floor raised tie down stands, and you can fit the shark measuring system underneath for electronic measuring.
i have removed a few smaller windows with it.
And i think with practice one could get quite good with it, but the video’s make it look easier than it is.
You have to be careful with encapsulated windows the encap trim can be melted if you are not carefull.
Though in saying that i would not be without my inductor it is handy for quite a few things.
heating bolts
removing mouldings
removing large decals from the side of panel vans
the odd glass, must practice more lol
i am liking that booth low level lighting and downdraft wish i had one of those, good job as well 😉
very nice work
we also paint different colors in the booth on occasion, big time saver, and that what our game is all about selling time.
Hi Tosh
I am nick from the UK also.
Wow you really are stuck in a timewarp, surprised he can still get a hold of celly, and wet sanding filler thats real old fashioned stuff.
What is he using p120 wet and dry ??
Oh and welcome, there is a wealth of information from the guys here, and def ne of the more friendly forums