nick
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[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=17811][quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=17808][quote]Do not make the bodyfiller more then an 1/8[/quote]
I am all ears and interested
what happens after 1/8…. 3/16 or 1/4 what will will/could happen on repairs of this depth[/quote]
nothing 😉
I would venture to say it is almost impossible to repair a stretched panel without going over 1/8 somewhere.[/quote]
[quote]nothing 😉 [/quote]
I have to agree i have never ever had any filler job’s crack on me. and i see many vehicles return over the years for others repairs and there has been no repair failure.
Hell in 1997 i bought myself a small panel van that had been rolled it was almost new, and as i was keeping it for myself i put a roof skin on it and repaired every other panel on the vehicle, i remember i actually counted the repairs there was around 30 repairs was rubbing it forever some of them would have exceeded 1/8 😉 .
I kept that van for eight years and never saw any filler failure and there was a lot of filler on it
[quote=”bodymanhelper” post=17809]It you over an 1/8″ the bodyfiller can crack[/quote]
Is there any documentation from company’s that sell filler, that state this in their data sheets.
hi and welcome from a fellow UK member
[quote]Do not make the bodyfiller more then an 1/8[/quote]
I am all ears and interested
what happens after 1/8…. 3/16 or 1/4 what will will/could happen on repairs of this depth
[quote]You definitely don’t want to fill anything deeper than 1/8[/quote]
Interested in anyone else, who would care to admit that their repairs may be over 1/8 deep on occasion.
This is often not achievable on certain areas, strong corners on pickup beds, where the overall area may not be vast the depth can exceed 1/8
I was having a look at the rage products data sheets an did not see any mention of maximum depth though i do realize filler must not me over deep, more so on certain areas hoods for one as some can be quite flexible and are often dropped from a fair height to close.
In an ideal world most of us would prefer to replace more and more panels rather than mud them up, but in interests of keeping competitive and customer retention i would personally sacrifice the 1/8 rule, and have done on many occasions. Been doing this job for over 20years and never had a filler failure yet.
Take for instance the tailgate on this vehicle new gate $1,108.57 USD plus painting and fitting maybe another $400-$500 thats what maybe $1600.00 dollars for the poor old customer.
Think i would offer them a repaired tailgate for around $800.00
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[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/tailgate.jpg[/IMG]lesonal HS 420 clear on this vehicle
http://s421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/l200%20repairs/?albumview=slideshow
[quote=”turbo t” post=17637]
..put the sun gun on it tonight before i left and it looked very metallicy so just though i would ask if it had and xirralics or any special tinters in it !
thanks[/quote]
The sun guns really seem to pick up the glitter in black , i notice in particular on the opel black, code 20r you can hardly see the red mica in it ,
Put the sun gun on and wow the red pops right up at you.
I also use lesonal but the clear we have is called 420 , witch relates to it’s compliance , excellent depth and gloss
Hi
what hardener are you using in the clear if it is very fast one you will get a slight drop in the gloss.
This may be even more apparent if you are extending the bake i.e. check it is not a 15-20 min bake hardener.
Are you adding any reducer to the clearcoat mix, if using a fast hardener it may be the reducer that is causing the gloss drop. as sometimes the mix is different with different hardeners within the range.
If none of the above try extending the gap between wet and wet and base.
That clear is either dropping down through the product or is getting to much heat too quick
After reading your post again you mention not baking so i suppose that rules that out hmmm.
Silvers usually have a heaviest pigment in them i.e. course aluminium etc, witch leads me to think the base is not dry enough, and your clear is sinking into your base.
Experiment next time you have some base left over use it on an old panel , and just leave it sitting in base
clear it with your next job and compare the two panels the one you just painted and the well cured base on the scrap panel[quote=”Jayson M” post=17357]Looks like the old Blackhawk Korek (korak) system,I’m showing my age but I have worked on 6 different ones over the years,more versatile than any other floor system.[/quote]
Korek was and still is quite popular, you can use the shark measuring system with it couple of pics here
http://www.blackhawk.co.uk/uk/korek/korekfirstpage.html
Ben this is quite a good video of the system you may have seen it if you have been on utube, quite a few different repair setup’s
Hi Russ
Welcome from cold, snowy, wet, sometimes sunny scotland
Cheers Nick
looking good top notch job
Little update, bought myself a damaged Mitsubishi pick up, both headlights have broken brackets.
These lights are expensive and second hand ones are like hens teeth to find
so out comes the staple system.
These could have been bonded i suppose but there is never that big an area to apply bond when repairing headlight lugs
Sorry should have taken a pic of the staples ground down forgot :blush:
Lol i look like i almost have girls nails, must cut them
.
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/1-7.jpg[/IMG].
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/2-7.jpg[/IMG].
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/3-5.jpg[/IMG]Here is a link on plastic repair,
I also use this method as well as the hot staple system
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ws_MONFf-Rc
lol excellent i was not expecting that