nick
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
[quote=”Ben” post=14975]Looks good! Now he’ll want everything repaired. Looks like a lot of work, that metal is stretched a good bit.
I assume the inner panels were not damaged, though.[/quote]
Thanks 😉
there was a little movement on the inner quarter but not much, yes it was pretty streched as well, we would have struggled to repair this without the [url=http://www.miracle-europe.com/]miracle repair system[/url].
That quarter was repaired in two fills believe it or not.
It was also done with polyester and blocked before primer
Well done looks great
Though i am not a beetle fan either, i think they are an acquired taste 😉
but you have done some great work there.
Looks top notch
lots of blood sweat and tears no doubt.
workmanship gets a big 10 from me :cheer:
I used g3 liquid for years without incident.
I moved over to 3m and i prefer it, its all down to personal preference, farecla and 3m both do the job they are supposed to do.
Neil if you want some advice i will give you my method it works been doing it this way for years and years, we nib and polish around 10-15 cars per week without any die back
my motto
is once to take the flatting marks out
and once more to keep them away.
apply compound work on an area of around a foot square
apply compound and buff until compound is gone this is important as the compounds starts to break down this is when you are getting a good cut and the compound is breaking down to a glossifier.
I always go over each area twice two applications of compound buffed till there is no compound left, as i said above once to take the scratches out and once more to keep them away.
Keep buffing that compound till it’s gone, you should not really need your clean up cloth because the compound should be more or less completely gone.
After compounding clean up the area and a nice coat of wax.
Applying the compound twice might seem a little extra work, but that way you wont have anymore problems after washing.
You may also want to consider using p2500 wet and dry easier to buff than 2000
i should clarify wet on wet is a European phrase and it does not really mean as it sounds wet on wet there is still a flash off between primer and basecoat.
For example we describe spies hecker’s vario as a wet and wet primer
But you chaps probably call it sealer/surfacer so it really is just the same product just called different names.
Language barrier lol
Jefftso just out of interest what is your procedure for painting new undamaged panels.
Wet on Wet Primer is designed for new panels.
I.e. new
bonnets (hoods)
doors
tailgates etc etc
It is a process used to speed up painting of new undamaged panels.
Not all primers/surfacers can be used wet on wet
if you have a dual primer i.e. for repair and wet on wet there will be two separate mixing ratio’s.
Wet and wet mix is a lot thinner, and you spray it like topcoat nice and even and wet.
Less is better where wet and wet is concerned the less material on the panel the less drop on gloss you will get
Should maybe consider fitting a dryer, second hand ones can be picked up pretty cheap
here is another link with a simple shop set up, may give you some ideas
http://www.spraygunworld.com/Information2/AirLayout.htm
[quote]The worst thing is they usually pay 0.2 to R&R the tape…and it often takes up tp 0.5 just to remove the tape and old adhesive…let alone installing the new ones[/quote]
I now charge 0.1 or 0.2 for decal adhesive removal i also charge this on moulding adhesive, when a caramac wheel is used.
I used to always struggle a bit with blackout trims.
I seem to have them sussed now.
My method clean area with panel wipe.
Very light spray of soapy water on pillar in question ( not very much at all)
start at the top squeegee out the very little water that is there.
i also had problems with the edges not sticking.
I now use a hot air gun very gentle warm on the flapping edge and it will almost fold itself :blink: round the door.
But i cant stress enough very gentle warm with the hot air gun, if you go too close it will wrinkle the trim up and render it useless.
P.S. Bondo i used that very same method rattle can on thursday nite 👿 little toyota yaris, i thought i had enough blackout tape on my roll, but i didnt lol.
Quick mask up and the job was done, could not tell
i use this system for my rubbing blocks, excellent extraction on filler and primer rubbing
http://www.refinishnetwork.com/discussion-forum/refinish/abernet.html#6815
Hi Gareth
:welc
Nick from the Uk here
There is usually a few booths on ebay
I would imagine blocking with 400 will just be quicker, you could block with 600 but it would take longer.
I also think if you want to block dry you dont want to be using much more than 400, anything higher clogs real easy, and you would end up using twice as many strips.
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]i dont think your doing too bad steve. you might not be getting rich but its not bad anyway. the cost of health ins is no joke either. we get ours through my wife’s job. she is the office manager so its her job to take care of that for everyone and every year the cost just goes up and up. last time i checked for us being on the family plan was over $1200 a month. that alone is worth about 10 a hour.[/quote]wow $1200 per month for family health cover thats astounding, $1200 is more than a months wage for someone here on minimum wage.
Hi Neil
My name is nick also small shop owner from the uk
Also a lesonal user.
You may have left it to long as suggested above, 20 mins may have allowed case hardening where the outer shell of the paint started to cure.
When you put the lamp on it you drew the solvent through the part cured outer skin on the paint surface.
To be honest i have never been a fan of heat lamp on solid colour’s i have seen them pop to many times.
Also you mention three coats, i know reds can be bad on coverage,
but maybe two full wet coats might not have been as prone to pop.
i think thats where the problem originates, i would def try and stick to two coats if you want to use your lamps a lot.
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]:welcIs there any way to see your site in English? I don’t know any German. People here cannot see your pics without registering. And registering is hard if we can’t read the launguage. :blush:[/quote]
Depending what browser you use ryan, there is usually a translation option.
download google chrome browser, and when you arrive on a foreign site, there is a bar that comes up near the top and ask’s if you want to translate the page.
I just been to that site and google chrome translates no problem.
:welc Sascha :welc
Hi David
I am Uk as well a bit further away than andy, i am in scotland
welcome aboard :cheer: