nick
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[b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]my guess is that your clear isn’t dry enough.[/quote]You are probably right! It seems that I have this problem more when I buff cars that have not had a full bake and the car needs to go.[/quote]
This is 100% accurate especially relating to black’s and dark navy blue colours.
I remember a similar thread on the a.b.o.l and one guy said he double baked black cars, or at the least extended the bake time. I have tried this and it does indeed help.
I notice a couple of replys here say they go from 1500 to trizact, i think that is to big a jump on grit’s 1500-3000, most suppliers advise two grit sizes is the maximum jump on sanding grits.
I have tried many many different dirt removal sanding procedures, dry and wet.
I always return to p2500 wet, 2500 is very easy to compound and polish compared to 1500.
1500 is good if you are wanting that mirror flat finish, but that kind off finish is not really applicable to most modern car finish’s, usually you just want to sand out your nibs and a quick scuff over the painted surface to take the raw edge of the finish.[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]I havent sealed a new part on the car in I cant remember how long. :silly:
No reason you cant seal the entire part when you jamb them. Then all you have to do is scuff and shoot.[/quote]much agree 😉 ,
i think it is a lot of extra work to seal on the vehicle, especially when you are jamming the parts anyway.
Audi bumper are notorious for not matching, even though you think they are at the same angle as the quarter panel it only takes a millimetre or two to change the flip on the colour.
I have seen qurtr’s blended and the colour still looks slightly different.
Look at cars the next time you are walking along the street i bet you will see many that are different.
Below are some pics of audi’s i think one or two of those cars are new un-registered models at time of photo.
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/4-2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/3-3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/1-2.jpg[/IMG]
[b]turbo t wrote:[/b]
[quote]Well i paint just about enything and end up with great resultsso we got offered a rental of a £29000 booth just installed i thought great we will go for that
BAD IDEA
i work everyday in a home made booth thats can out perform a 29k booth anyday ……so the problems
loads of trash in the base and clear so were going to reflat the whole panels
also we baked this clear coat we used de beer 8-402 i think was the no …. put last coat of clear on and bang runs everywere so we gave it 20 mins and baked it for 30 min at 60deg we entered the booth to find solvent pop everwere wtf i felt like hanging myself
what do i do to flatten the runs ?? and do i just sand back the solvent pop and leave for a bit opened up then base and clear ??
just shows you …you dont have to spend money to get great finishes and less hastle !!!!!!
tommy[/quote]
Solvent pop i can see where that came from.
but the runs cant blame them on the booth :whistle:
block the runs out either wet flat or dry block witch ever method you prefer.
800 wet
320 dry worked up to 500
everybody has there own method for this part of operations.
solvent pop sand and leave open awhile as you suggest.
just watch with the next application of base dont go to wet or it may react and then you are in deep shit
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Thanks for the tip Nick! Do you just use your sealer(wet on wet primer)? Do you sand it or just give it a quick scuff with a scotch brite? [/b]
I used to do something like this but my helper does most of the cut-ins and he doesn’t spray the flattest finish :blush: . I might have to give what your saying a go
Ya it was a new fender and door skin.[/quote]
Usually just a dry scuff will do the job i use the foam backed pads 800 or 1000 the key is to not have to much material on the panel and a nice smooth finish.
Just sometimes think if we are going to the bother of edging the panel may as well lightly prime the outside as well, and the job’s a good un 😉
i am still using the miracle system.
we love though it’s very expensive, but puts the tiniest amount of heat into the panel.
I would not like to go back to stud welder
only problem is the cost, and that is a big problem it is very expensive i put of investing in it for years, but i am now very glad i did.
here is a thread i started last year on the miracle system for anybody that has not read it.
http://www.refinishnetwork.com/discussion-forum/auto-body-repair/dent-pulling-system.html#7591
sorry if i am bit off topic as the thread is related to a cheap method of dent pulling :blush:
nice job ryan 😉 ,
I am still thinking about carpeting my booth never got round to it yet.
I take it that a new door or skin plus fender.
You have edged these and fitted them for painting ??.
We do this as well, but often take it one step further.
since we already have wet on wet primer / sealer in the gun when edging the panels we coat the outside also, then paint the inside to body colour.
I am not talking about a high build primer just a couple of light coats we can then fit them and give them a quick scuff.
Then we are good to go with base coat, just found this saved any additional masking and overall saved time, especially if we were going to the bother of fitting before paint.
only takes a few mins to scuff the primer
[b]Old DuPont Guy wrote:[/b]
[quote]Its a very good idea when you do a front bumper.[/quote]I have heard this said a few times never done it before, is there any literature from any of the leading paint companies that back this up as a recommended operation.
It will become a little irrelevant with the introduction of waterbase basecoats.
Unless some of the companies are introducing special hardeners for their basecoats.
Nice job ding looks real good nice and subtle, how many coats of clear are on it, it has great depth
top job :cheer:[b]Ben wrote:[/b]
[quote]That is the same grate in the pair I used, and they DID have the water system…which doesn’t have a lot of airflow either.They were great for small jobs, but as you mentioned, with bigger jobs the clear likes to linger for a littler longer than necessary.
Here is a shot of one of the spray bake booths…
[img]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1977/197/8/723495032/n723495032_2374684_522.jpg[/img][/quote]
wow i bet that doesn’t extract well, thought my booth had poor extraction, as mentioned maybe some custom made great would improve the airflow.0
Though i found on my booth when we cleaned the paint build from the extract fan and chimney this made a very noticeable difference to the drying of water basecoat.
To be honest the fan and chimney were not even that bad looking, but it certainly made a big difference.
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]man that wb is some funky lookin stuff when its wet. clear looks really nice in the pics.[/quote]Should see the black basecoats, in my system they are almost pure green when they first go on.
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]keep in mind waterbased clearner take ALOT longer to flash off than solvent based. i have been told once you wipe down with a waterbased clear the part needs to sit for 1/2hour to get the water out of any pores. it may look dry but in fact it isn’t. i used to get that problem on metal when i was going to epoxy. once i started waiting a little longer the problem went away.[/quote]Saving waiting around i will usually clean down with water cleaner, then use air line to blow down car cleaning of any dust particles etc this helps make sure the water has evaporated fully.
Then go over with solvent cleaner, never have a problem
Ironically i used to get the odd fish eye in my paintwork but when i added in the extra step of
pre-clean with water based cleaner this is now eradicated.I also use waterbase cleaner to scotchbrite with, usually da a blend panel with p1000 disc give the panel a squirt with waterborne cleaner scotchbrite clean down, works well for me.
I have one of these filled with waterborne cleaner
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/15ltrepumpspraycopy.jpg[/IMG]
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]I use water first then solvent. No real time in between. Just as long as it takes me to wipe everything. I also never use solvent on plastic, fiberglass, or SMC.[/quote]Yes this is the way i do it water then solvent, i have had problems doing the reverse.
Though as mentioned in the thread waterborne cleaner is good for taking the static out of plastics.
looks good Dag, nice freshen up job.
Though i would say there will mostly likely be shrinkage with that red stopper that has been used.
Or maybe not lol it will be very warm where you are, it may fully cure before paint 😉
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]hmmm that sounds interesting nick[/quote]I know he has sold previous versions to guys in the U.S. as far as i am aware currency symbols can be changed for overseas buyers and post code changed to Zip code etc.
The latest version now has an expense manager this allows you to create your own expense categories and add the relevant expenditure invoices as they arrive, you can also have them marked as paid or unpaid.
What i like is the reports section you can see your sales for any particular period in time
week to week
month to month
year to year
And it is fully broken down into Labour sales, parts sales, Paint and materials sales.
Sorry if i am going of topic here this is supposed to be about jimmo’s creation but this may give him some idea’s