nick
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looking very nice :rock
A job very well done
[quote=”Wydir” post=19676]So I hooked it up and ran it from empty to 150psi took 8min
Then I hooked a SATA 3000 RP to it and no problems, Comp didnt even know it was there,
so then I got out my Compressor Killer AKA Snapon 7″ Angle polisher Muhhaaahaha and ……… Comp tried to defeat it but lost out. Pulled it right down (Bummer) the polisher says it only uses 15cfm @ 90 PSI and comp was to put out 19 CFM @ 100.I will have to see if I can find out the actual CFM Usage of this polisher (yes it is old)
was going to get an electric buffer anyway.
all in all it was better than what I had and its as loud as any normal air comp.
so what did I learn :teach
1. Dont expect nice things
2. $1700.00 is considered a cheap compressor
3. Pneumatic Angle Polisher is not the way to go
4. Go Big
5. Where Theres a Will, Theres a Relative[/quote]All air polishers always seem to be the same, they claim to use low cfm but they can always draw down a compressor pretty damn quick, an air grinder using a flap disc will draw it down just as quick.
In the past i have looked at compressors, and said right that one on paper will supposedly do the job.
Then i pick model a couple of steps up.
And yes $1500 is very cheap for a compressor, but that said you guy’s can buy levi jeans for under $40.00 and we can pay $90.00 lol
some rating explanations as found below
[b]CFM[/b] (Cubic Feet per Minute) is the imperial method of describing the volume flow rate of compressed air. It must be defined further to take account of pressure, temperature and relative humidity – see below.
[b]ICFM[/b] (Inlet CFM) rating is used to measure air flow in CFM (ft3/min) as it enters the air compressor intake .
[b]ACFM[/b] (Actual CFM) rating is used to measure air flow in CFM at some reference point at local conditions. This is the actual volume flow rate in the pipework after the compressor.
[b]FAD[/b] (Free Air Delivery) (f.a.d) is the actual quantity of compressed air at the discharge of the compressor. The units for FAD are CFM in the imperial system and l/min in the SI system. The units are measured according the ambient inlet standard conditions ISO 1217 – 1 bar abs and 20oC.
1 m3/min (f.a.d) = 1000 liter/min (f.a.d) = 1000 dm3/min (f.a.d) = 16.7 l/s (f.a.d) = 16.7 dm3/s (f.a.d) = 35.26 ft3/min (f.a.d)[b]ANR[/b] (Atmosphere Normale de Reference) is quantity of air at conditions 1.01325 bar absolute, 20oC and 65% RH (Relative Humidity).
SCFM (Standard CFM) is the flow in CFM measured at some reference point but converted back to standard or normal air conditions (Standard Reference Atmosphere) 14.4 psia, 80oF and 60% RH (Relative Humidity).
[b]nl/min[/b] is the flow in l/min measured at some reference point but converted to standard or normal air conditions 1.01325 bar absolute, 0oC and 0% RH (Relative Humidity).
[b]ISO 1217[/b]
standard reference ambient conditions – temperature 20oC, pressure 1 bar abs, relative humidity 0%, cooling air/water 20oC, and working pressure at outlet 7 bar absolute.well you could block it flat and then polish it.
or you as suggest block it flat and clearcoat it, though you will probably still end flatting and polishing.
You will get a bit more depth and flatness if you block and clear
Then flat and polish, but there is another good few hrs involved there.
Officially the second documented point of entry is the eye’s
Everyone should wear full face airfed mask’s, or at the very least a half face airfed mask.
I have noticed that a lot of guys on your side of the pond still use charcoal respirator mask’s, personally i would never ask or expect anyone to paint a car wearing one of those .
[quote=”Ben” post=19914][quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=19908]I am not familiar with Onyx but if it were me I would rebase and blend as needed. I can see you having an issue with sanding it and just putting orientation coats on. I would treat it the same as if primer were underneath.[/quote]
Can you figure out what you did to cause the mottling, and correct that on this application?[/quote]
Now there is a leading question lol. mottling can be caused by many many factors
I worked with a pretty good painter a few years ago, as a painter he painted very fast, but he also painted very close to the panel a lot closer than i do that was why his arm used to move about twice the peed of mine lol.
As a result he on occasion used to get mottles.
This was due to the fact the gun was to close to the panel and he was not getting full use of the fan pattern.
[quote=”Paintwerks” post=19877]I concur that welding is the way to go, but I have had really good luck [i]without[/i] welding.
First, I chamfer the top of the hole(s) back to bare metal with an angle grinder (just to make them a little low, and I’ll feather out the surrounding area). I take an old drum of reducer, and cut the bottom out with tin snips, which I’ll then cut into appropriate sized strips to cover the hole with about 0.75″ overlap over the hole. I rough it with 80grit, and rough the backside of the panel too. I then use Lord Fusor 108B metal bondline adhesive which glues the two pieces together at weld strength. Let it cure, follow up with Kitten Hair filler, sand back, then finish with either U-Pol Fantastic, or Dolphin finish filler. Highfill and your done……ready for top coat.
No sink back, bullseyes etc.[/quote]
I have tried this method a few times, less the kitty hair
And have never been that impressed with the longevity of the repaired area usually sinks over time to reveal small sink mark round the original hole
Maybe kitty hair is the answer 😉
I usually always weld up the holes
looks good andy, we did a bonnet on a focus that was that colour a couple of months back it really is a nightmare covering color.
I could still see the white base that covered the primer patch just, if you looked very closely.
And that was with around 7 coats of colour.
nice job ryan, that will be one clean looking old civic now
all you guys with your down draught booths and low level lighting make me jealous lol
edit
quads as well, your to well looked after 😉
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=19623]Did you spray that one Nick?[/quote]
No i did not Ryan, i really dont do that much painting theses day’s. maybe 2 or 3 small jobs per month days.
I did do all the panel work on it as one of my panel guys was on holiday last week.
And the painter is off for three days this week, so i will probably do some painting this week :cheer:
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=19616]Nice work as usual Nick! :cheers
Is that green primer Lechler?[/quote]
your on the money ryan it is indeed Lechler green T.I.
It is a good high build primer and blocks real nice with 320 dry strips
the finished article
in high build primer
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/phone%20uploads/IMG00855-20110321-1705.jpg[/IMG]
.
in the booth painted[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/phone%20uploads/IMG00876-20110323-1157.jpg[/IMG]
.
outside and finished[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/phone%20uploads/IMG00881-20110324-1224.jpg[/IMG]
looking pretty dam good as per usual 😉
nice job ding, excellent of the gun finish
we use this type of tack rag
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/FAR1050030-2_1.jpg[/IMG]
[quote=”ding” post=19367][quote=”Joe@FCAB” post=19360]They only fall apart if you dont know what your doing.. They take about 30 seconds to remove… You didnt even blend the hood you hack :)[/quote]
Why blend the hood. I was using Sikkens after all :p[/quote]
I agree never blend wings into bonnets (fenders into hoods)
My paint scheme seems to cope, that would make it quite a big job in my opinion.
I have done it before but very rarely