Kyle
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I’m a bit of a gun whore. I have a ton of them laying around. Tekna, CVI, Sata 2000, LPH 400,and the list goes on…Most of them are just sitting in my toolbox collecting dust. Since they came out with the Plus guns I just don’t use anything else. I have one for every different step in the painting process. Sealer, solids, metallics, tri-coats, and clear. I might be a little OCD when it comes to guns, but I never have to respray one due to metellic residue in my solid colors or a chunck of color in my pearl coat on tri-coats. I will say, it does take some practice to use the Plus gun on some colors but for the most part its a great gun.
I use the 670 Plus gun for everything. Hell, I have five of them. I’ve used the Sata guns in the past along wih the Iwatas. They’re all good guns. It simply boils down to personal preference. I just like the way the Plus gun feels in my hand while spraying. My advice would be to pick a gun, crank it wide open, and get to painting. If you like the gun you picked, keep it. If not, pick another gun and sell the first one for pennies on the dollar :exci
yep 800 DA. I like running a DA better than scuffing the whole thing with grey.
We recycled thinner for a long time. It does smell different. Doesn’t clean as well as virgin thinner. I was glad to see the recycler breakdown and never work again. I don’t have any idea what happened, it just quit working.(wink,wink)
It’s the slowest basecoat I’ve ever seen. The color match is lacking. Ease of use just isn’t there. There’s no one in Oklahoma that can answer any questions that I had about it when I using the product. If the customer support was better I might still be using 90-line but for now I’ll stick with Diamont.
I sprayed 90-line for about a year. Got my hands on some onyx at a R-M class about a month ago. I couldn’t tell a difference between the two. I feel sorry for you if you are forced to switch to water. The water is not ready for the market. It cut my production in half! Of course, we had no training. The stuff was dropped off and we were told to use the junk. Totally different monster. Since then, we have switched back to solvent and I couldn’t be happier. Production is back up and the creditors have stopped calling.
Is 90-line a tool??? If so, that’s the absolute worst tool I’ve bought. Thank god for solvent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I’m with you on the Finex mini. I was using mine to do a small spot job on an old 55 chevy. Trigger stuck wide open and ran the clear down the side of the car. That gun hit the ground hard and broke into three pieces. This wasn’t the first time it had screwed me on a little job but it was the last time.
I just use my primer/surfacer at very low air pressure. I’ve been doing that for years now and never had a problem matching any of the textures. Never had any luck with the shaky bomb stuff.
If you can find 3m spraymask for 300 a drum…buy it. I’d buy every drum I can get my hands on for 300. The last time I checked 3m was around 800 a drum. I was buying an off brand(aquamask) at cost for 480 a drum. Now I’ve switched to Keystone…don’t know what the price is but they gave me the first drum for free. I use about 2 drums a year so that was a huge bonus from Keystone!
I just use an old paint gun to spray the stuff on. Don’t use any of your good guns, the stuff is really hard on all the guts of the gun. Still have to mask everything like normal. It is simply a replacement for plastic sheeting. When you’re done with the job, just powerwash it off.
I use spray mask and love it. The 3M stuff is high dollar but tons of people sell the stuff. I’m using the spray mask from Keystone now and it works great. Finishmaster has been sending me gallons of the stuff for free!!! Some new promo brand called Smart. As far as the spray mask overspray…it does get on everything. I just spray mask the jobs when I get them from the bodymen then use a water-based cleaner to wipe off the panels I’m painting. DX394 from PPG works great for this. Don’t be fooled though. If you spray your paint or clear directly on the spray mask it will bleed through. I always use 36inch paper for masking.
I don’t know what if any paint stores are in your area but I would stay with a local paint dealer. All of the dealers around here carry several different lines of paint.
I would stick with urethane basecoat instead of enamel. Enamel can be a real pain in the arse. It looked like they had that same color in a urethane bc/cc kit. They also have a urethane 2k high build primer surfacer. Most of the cheaper surfacers I’ve delt with sand about as good as concrete but they will get you by. Then they also had a DTM epoxy primer/sealer. Should work as a good sealer for ya. Get the darkest one you can. Cheap bc is normally piss thin and won’t cover very well so the dark sealer should help with that problem. I have used some of the 5-star clears and they’re not too bad. You can colorsand and buff them so it will look good. All of this stuff looks to be pretty budget friendly. It should last for awhile. Never know with cheap paint…could look good forever or just a year or two. Kinda risky with all the work you’re talking about doing.
I certainly didn’t mean any offend anybody or step on any toes. Sorry bout that Doright. I said “All kidding aside…they’re right.” And you are correct. Top notch equipment is worth every penny.