Simon Richards
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What you have to be careful about is ensuring you mix enough ‘modified’ hardener to cover the complete requirements of the job. That, or make absolutely sure you mark out your ratios of the two hardeners so you can recreate the ‘mix’ if you need more. You can’t/shouldn’t do an ‘eyeball’ mix. This might lead to a slower hardened underneath a faster hardener mix.
It’s critical not to use the hardeners from two different paint manufacturers, or even paint systems too. All hardeners should be from the same manufacturer and system.
You can also mix different speeds of reducers, too.
Your compressor is likely wearing, and producing moisture (and oil blow by) as a by-product. I have a refrigerated air dryer in my shop. As such, in 5 years through all sorts of climatic conditions, I have never had water in my lines or hitting a job. Might be something to look into Craig. Mine cost about $1200 and has been worth every cent.
[quote=”Mal” post=32744]
Would a plug socket in the booth be handy for heat gun etc any reason y this would be a bad idea etc?[/quote]Uhhh, yeah. How about the potential for an explosion??? :p
You have live electrical current in the socket, and flammable solvents flying around the booth. One spark from a faulty socket or a spark when you plug in the lamp while there’s still fumes in the booth (at any time) and baaaaaam!
In Australia, we’re not allowed to have any electrical GPO/socket installed in a spray booth due to safety reasons. In fact, inside the light system which is sealed from the booth itself, a separate fan pushes fresh air through the light boxes to evacuate them of any solvent that may have entered.
So my take. Bad idea. Don’t do it.
[quote=”Mal” post=32744]
Also as I have recently acquired neighbours I am now thinking rather than run the exhaust straight up threw the roof I am considering turning it 90 degrees and taking it 4 metres/13ft horizontal and out the rear wall this keeps any fumes and the sight of the chimney hidden from there view as much as I can (they know its being fitted and what it does) will this cause me any issues?
[/quote]Depending on local codes, you probably can’t do this (and shouldn’t do this). Here, the exhaust flue needs to be a certain height above the roof, and another certain height again above the inlet fan itself. If you have the exhaust fan below the plane of the inlet intake, the potential exists for exhaust to re-enter the fresh air supply. That’s another big no-no.
[quote=”NFT5″ post=32179]Grey scotch also can leave some fairly deep scratching that could be difficult to compound out.[/quote]
For that reason, I no longer use grey scotch when preparing a blend panel (cleaning yes, preparing no). I use the 3M 1000grit 6″ pads on a 2.5mm orbit DA with some water to prep the blend area. Also, when blending a lighter colour metallic such as silver, I always lay down a couple coats of colour blender (basemaker) over the entire blend area which provides a consistent, uniform blend and fills any minor scratches/marring created in the cleaning/prep process.
Btw, to the OP….you sure picked it, silver is THE most difficult colour to blend!
Dag, you’re very welcome! Happy to help out a fellow painter. 🙂
With a tri-stage (3 layer) paint, you spray the main layer to full saturation (anywhere from 3-7 coats depending on gun setup and whether in this case if you’ve used the G7 greymatic coats first).
In the mid/effect layer (the tinted colour blender), you’ll need to spray anywhere from 2-4 coats with 5-10 min flash off. If you’re painting the whole bike, it’s a little easier because you don’t have to match anything else, and then about 3 coats should be just right. But if you are matching, you’ll need to do 4 spray out cards, with the cards having 1,2,3 and 4 coats of the pearl mid coat (after each card has had the main layer applied). Then you need to clear coat all the cards with the same product and material thickness you’ll be using on the job. Then you can eye match.
Btw, if you need to tint, only tint the main layer.
One last thing….because you are applying quite a lot of coats of base, don’t clearcoat right at the end of the 15 minute final flash off period. Let the panels sit for at least an hour, preferably 2 before clearcoat. This will allow adequate time for proper flash off (especially if one doesn’t have a spray booth with constant airflow over the parts).
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Simon[quote=”NFT5″ post=31925]Off the gun? Impressive![/quote]
Thank you!
I finished painting at 2am Monday morning, baked the job, left everything hanging in the booth and the customer came to pick the parts up at 10.45am. No polishing! It’s the cleanest multiple-part job that’s ever come out of my booth.
Dag, here’s the Deltron GRS formula for 1000ml of each layer
[b]
Basecoat/Main layer[/b]D989 Coarse silver aluminium 530.4gm
D789 Jet Black 250.2gm
D740 Black 150.1gm
D759 Matting base 15.0gm[b]Tinted Clearcoat[/b]
D895 Colourblender 881.2gm
DH995 Red to Gold 22.0gm (Limited use tinter)
D759 Matting base 22.0gmMaybe you could substitute the red to gold with some red pearl and some gold pearl powder?
Hope this info helps you?
Thanks for the kind words all!
Strawberry, the info was in my original post! 😉
[quote]The bike was then primed and blocked two separate times then painted in PPG Deltron D789 Jet Black and clearcoated with a MIPA CC6 2:1 high solid clearcoat with fast hardener reduced at 10%. I then let the parts sit for a week, we rubbed everything down to a perfectly flat finish, applied the decals and I then flowcoated the parts with another 2 coats of high solid clear (3 over the decals to lose the edge).[/quote]
Not sure if you also wanted to know about the primers I use, but I used Metallux DTM etch primer (from South Africa) and Mipa 4:1 Acryllfiller with 5% reducer. I love the (German) Mipa primer because in addition to it giving you a 300 micron build over 3 coats, it sands really well and doesn’t shrink back or map as long as it is fully cured before topcoat.
I’ve been painting with Deltron GRS base for the past 8 years. The only PPG clears I use now are the D8113 Matt Clear (and the Ceramiclear when a customer requests it, and is prepared to pay for it). I use Mipa CC6 clear now and love it. Works really well with Deltron GRS.
I suppose what would be even better than polishing the blend panel would be to claybar the panel. That would completely remove any embedded contaminants from the surface.
I’m going to try that.
Depends on several factors including:
1. What the customer is prepared to pay for.
2. What the original finish was and if the customer wants that replicated.
3. What the colour of the stripe needs to be.For example, if the stripe colour is a solid, then you could lay your base first then clear it, then mask off and paint the stripes in DG. This is how Foose does it on some of his cars (have seen it on Overhaulin’ where he paints the stripes in an open garage – how he doesn’t get crap in the paint is beyond me!).
If the stripe colour will be a metallic, then you have no choice but to paint it in basecoat.
Alternatively, as strawberry mentioned, I’ll spray the stripe colour first in activated base, let it flash for a couple hours, then I’ll go in and mask off for the main colour and spray that (also in activated base)….pull off the masking and clear the whole job. If the customer wants it, I can block the whole body back and flow coat. This is what I’ll be doing with my own AC Cobra that I’ll be starting to build in a month.
[quote=”David” post=30933]the new farecla “extra” is better then the old g3 but it stinks like mr jiff the cleaning product. it also gets the panel really really hot which i dont like.
i personally like juice its australian brand but you can buy it in the states. its a one stop bottle from lambs wool to foam/finishing pad or by hand. works amazing on blacks and its waterbased so it washes off with the hose or a damp microfiber and doesn’t stain plastics and rubbers.
gersons t57 is awesome stuff for a show car but its 99% fillers have u ever washed a car a few times after applying it or had it out in direct sunlight for a day? buff swirls everywhere.
hated 3m polishes there so piss weak and oily.[/quote]
I’ve been using the new Farecla G3 Extra for a few months now. It works well with a wool pad, as well as a medium foam cutting pad (works better with foam however compared to wool). It doesn’t sling like the old G3 and the residue cleans up well without staining. I’m using it with a Makita 9227CB orbital.
I generally finish with Juice Swirl Remover polish and a black finishing pad on a Flex DA.
I also have a Cyclo but don’t use it that much these days now that I have the Flex.
Thank you!!! I knew something like that existed, but it’s really hard to find in Australia.
I’ve been hand-masking my stripes which has been very time consuming……I know TCP Global ship to Australia so I will be ordering these stencils from them shortly.
[quote=”hating-painting” post=30577]How old is the air hose? That could be breaking down inside.
There was a thread a couple weeks ago about black specs in the clear.[/quote]:agree
Another thing painters do is leave the spray line in the booth when the bake cycle is active. That’s a big no-no.
Also, i change out my spray line and spray suit every 6 months.
Do you wipe your spray line down with an old tack rag prior to, and in between coats? What about your spray suit…how old is that?
[quote=”Jayson M” post=30322]be careful doing a short bake,you will shorten your recoat window on the base and this can cause adhession issues.[/quote]
Jayson, I’m only talking about doing a low-temp flash bake after the last coat of base (Deltron has a 12 hour window for clearcoat, so giving it a short 10 minute flash at 45-50 degrees C still allows the base to remain inside the clearcoat window), but helps the solvents degass. Given that Deltron is 1:1 reduction, it has a high solvent content so it needs extra time to flash.
Alternatively, you can leave the base for 3 or so hours before clear (without flash baking), but in a production-type shop, this is impractical.