Simon Richards
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What basecoat are you using? I’m using Deltron which is a 1:1 reduction. The TDS says to wait 15 minutes before clear, however I wait longer than that…..usually 30 mins. Depending on the ambient temp, I will even flashbake the base for 20 mins at 50 degrees.
Also, how long are you leaving your primer to cure/degass before you apply your base? If you’re topcoating too soon, that could be a problem right there.
I’m using Mipa CC6. After the final coat, I let the clear flash for 10 minutes before baking, but for the first 10 minutes, I’ll bake at 50 degrees, then bump it to 65 degrees. I know the bake process is 30 minutes at metal temperature, but my total booth time will be about 45 mins to allow for the purge, booth heatup and the short 50 degrees pre-bake.
What Mipa clear are you using? Sounds like CC6.
I spray my base using a Devilbiss GTi Pro with a 1.3 and T1 transtech cap @ 23-25psi, with a 60-70% overlap at about 6-7″ spray distance.
When laying down silver, I activate the base, always use a slow reducer and reduce at 1:1 or just under (I never over-reduce base coat). If you need to speed things up you can use a fast reducer on the ground coats, but use the slow for your top coats. Also, when using a slow reducer, make sure you allow a longer flash off period. I also make sure one of the coats is a cross-coat to the main spray direction (helps to minimise banding).
With any lighter metallic, I do lay down a lighter final coat at reduced air pressure (15-17psi) and twice the spray distance. But the trick to avoiding a dry surface as mentioned earlier is to apply this final coat when the previous coat you put down has developed that not quite dry ‘eggshell peel’ appearance (don’t wait for that previous coat to completely flash off). It will look weird when you initially lay it down and you’ll think you’ve done something wrong, but walk away and leave it, and when you come back to it after it’s dried, things will look fine!
Hope this helps.
Looks great Jeremy! Out of interest, how much did your shop charge to do the work? How long did it take you?
I’m currently working on an AC Cobra in a very similar blue/white paint scheme with stripes. I hate masking stripes…you have to be so careful of blow-throughs!
As the others have mentioned, it’s ‘mottle’, not moddle. 😉
I’ll always try and upsell the paint if it’s private work, or if it’s insurance, we’ll fight to get the extra to blend into the next panel.
The above said, our obligation as a repairer is to return the car to ‘pre accident condition’ or better. If we’re not getting any more money, that means we have to reintroduce mottle to match existing mottle. Otherwise, the customer will likely complain that the two panels look different. Oh, we also document before and afters with photos. It hasn’t happened yet, but this gives us a leg to stand on if things go south.
[quote=”rikka23″ post=28478]…. also the blow aways aswel it had three coats due to the fine pearl in the base and wasn’t happy on how it was laying, the blow away panels have a base fix sealer sprayed on then as well to help[/quote]
Rikka, when you say ‘blow away panels’, are you referring to the blend panels adjacent the new work? When I’m blending, I cover all panels in (clear) colour blender. Helps with minimising the metallic laying down in any rogue sand scratches and improves the blend.
[quote=”rikka23″ post=28431] I don’t like the idea of a coat hanger, I don’t think it will have the strength to hold a full door with inners in, cheers[/quote]
He just means to use the coathanger to stop the door from swinging around, it doesn’t bear any real weight. If you’re worried about the wire gauge, you can get inexpensive rolls of wire of varying gauges from the hardware store.
Cheers,
Sime[quote=”billgaino” post=28243] Does anybody have a buff product that they swear by. [/quote]
Can you get Farecla products where you are at? I have just started using ‘Farecla G3 Extra’ and it’s the ducks guts. It’s a dry compound with minimal sling, and you can use any pad, wool or foam. Otherwise, Menzerna FG500 (Fastgloss) works great too.
Bueller?……..Anyone?………Anyone?
[img]http://mikegwaltney.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Ferris-Bueller-Boring-Econ-Teacher.jpg[/img]
Obviously different booths display differing efficiencies.
So, with your particular booths guys, if you want a desired panel temperature of 60 degrees C, what do you set your bake temperature at? And how much extra time do you allow for:
A. The booth to reach bake temperature
B. The panel to reach bake temperatureI set my booth at 65 degrees and allow 12 min total (over and above the required bake time) for booth temp and panel temp. Just curious to see what others are doing?
Cheers,
SimeI’ve done about 10 sets of wheels in this finish. The product is made by PPG. It’s called ‘Chrome Shadow’ and the part number is: 452-86973.
You start by priming and painting the wheels in 2K Direct Gloss. I reduce it 3:1:1 and you have to use Fast hardener. I also generally use fast reducer as well unless it’s really hot. After you do you 2-3 coats, you need to low bake the wheels for 30 minutes @ 60 degrees celcius.
Within one hour of the bake process conculding, you then need to take a 1.0mm touch up gravity fed spray gun, and fill it with well stirred (did I say, well-stirred!) Chrome Shadow. You set the pressure at about 40psi at the regulator, and you then mist the Chrome Shadow on. [b]The critical step here is to mist the coats on LIGHTLY![/b] If you put it on too heavy, it will fry the 2K up to which there is absolutely NO recovery but to start from scratch (ie. new 2K). If you do fewer coats (approx. 3-4), you will get a black chrome finish, but if you put more coats on (about 7-8 coats),you get the Hyper Silver like in the pic.
You could do a matt or satin clearcoat, but I have only ever seen, and used a full gloss clear. After you spray your 2-3 coats of clear, you need to low bake the wheels again for the time prescribed by your clearcoat’s TDS. You then need to wait a minimum of 1 week before attempting to fit tyres. You need to wait longer than normal because you have double the amount of product on the wheels.
[b]I must stress how important booth and painter hygeine is when using this product.[/b] Because, if you get any dirt/crap in [u]any[/u] part of the job, it will show up in the finished job. And you can’t wetsand out the dirt/crap from the 2K or the Chrome Shadow. What you paint is what you get. I’m serious.
[u]And, for you DIY’ers, because the Chrome Shadow product must be applied over baked but still fresh 2K, sorry, but you cannot apply this product if you don’t have/use a low bake booth.[/u]
Yep, as mentioned, ground the body to the booth floor with a heavy chain. You can wrap the chain around the diff if your painting a roller.
Hate to say it, but you’re going to have to repaint that panel, including basecoat. Fresh clear won’t mask the distortion under the existing clear. If it’s just that area that’s got the discoloration, you can blend in the new base to cover that area only (save you rebasing the entire hood).
I would also re-orient the panel so that the hood is flat as well when you paint it.
[quote=”danthebumperman” post=26337]Good advice Chuck. I can’t find a 3″ interface pad, otherwise I’d use that to get a little closer to edges. You’re being smart, not lazy.[/quote]
Easy fix. Just cut a 6″ pad down to size if needed. I don’t bother though…I just hand finish the areas that my DA won’t reach (or sensitive areas such as panel edges etc).
I use a Rupes Scorpio 2.5mm random orbit palm sander with 500 grit to prep panels for paint (400 for DG).
I use the Upol Reface. It works really well, but you need a 3mm tip to apply it.
After sanding, before you lay your DG or COB, you do need to use either a 2K highfill, or a 2K epoxy such as PPG D834 ‘DP40’.
I would not apply topcoat directly onto the poly!
[quote=”polymer_pro” post=26040]Paintwerks…
I assume that this is a downdraft booth. How are you achieving proper airflow around the vehicle when you tape your plastic to the floor, completely sealing the part of the pit that is underneath?[/quote]
Sorry for the delay in reply.
Yes, it is a downdraft booth. The inbound air is fully distributed from all areas of the ceiling (as filters cover the whole 7m x 4.2m ceiling), and then the exit filter on one side of the booth is approx. 5 metres long x 50cm.
We’ve never had any issues with adequate airflow. And this particular job was very, very clean with only a few dirt particles that we cut out. All that remained were two pinprick-sized bits of black dirt that complemented the other pinprick bits of dirt in the factory finish on the rest of the car! The owner was stoked with the result. He said he couldn’t distinguish it from brand new.