Richard
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Sadly enough as far as I can tell Bondo just keeps redoing the same 4 cars. :lol1
Is there something wrong with the bottom of the Driver Front Door? Or do my eyes deceive me? :huh:
You weren’t kidding when you said that all you ever work on is the Jap Trash were you?
You didn’t even need to go into the Mixing room, Mcoke was probably having eye orgasms from the time he saw your booth actually had lighting. :lol1
:lol1
I’ve got the sata rps system. which are way too expensive imo.
and altough they work as they should, cleaning wise I don’t feel I save too much time.
the cups the easy part to clean. it just takes a little more solvent. and I usually wipe my cups out with used solvent anyways.
personally don’t use them on anything but my clears.Just don’t go over epoxy too soon with poly. No matter what the P-sheet states for top coating time, you don’t poly over epoxy until it’s cured.
Poly will lock virtually anything down as it sits. And if it ain’t cured, it ain’t gunna’.Oh yeah and don’t use CP400. :deadhorse :chair
Looks real good Blove.
Only in the Bondo hut. :clappy
Strip disks also work well as final cleanup with paint strippers.
They don’t produce much heat, they don’t remove any metal, and they put a consistent 80-120 grit scratch in everything.I use and like strip disks. They’re fast, they don’t heat things much, and they work.
As far as stripping a whole car, I like to use both 65-80 Grit on a 7 inch Electric Rotary sander. ( I use a cheapo Hobo freight 7 inch rotary buffer/sander )
And the Strip disks.I use the 4.5″-5″ Strip disks on my Aircat 6255 Air Die grinder. (although it is one of the higher torque die grinders on the market.)
I personally would be scared to put one on an electric grinder, just because that much torque behind it can make a mess of strip disks.The best place to get the Strip disks is at believe it or not Walmart, in the home improvement section.
You can get the 3M ones there, and they’re a lot cheaper (And the exact same god damn thing), something like 5 bucks for the single 4.5 inch, or they have a combo one which is 8 bucks (Has two disks on it which you can then use individually.)You can also get another name brand at lowes, (Gater strip or something along that lines.)
They’re a little cheaper, two disks for like 6 bucks. And I haven’t noticed any difference in comparison to the 3M ones.Strip disks work good, but edges and rough *** can *** them up royally.
I’ve stripped an entire car with strip disks before. I’ve managed to do an entire car with maybe 4-5 of them. (But then again, I’ve also managed to burn an entire one out on a floor pan, you just gotta be careful with them to get any mileage out of them.)Strip disks don’t have much surface area, so although they cut fast. They don’t cut a shot load at once. Most effective way to use them is to go over it with 45-65 grit on a rotary sander (Just enough to tear most the paint off like a fiend) being careful not to hit too much metal and get too much heat, then go back for the final strip with a Strip Disk.
I’ve been debating on getting one of those rechargeable aresol cans just for this reason.
But then again, in the end unless you’re using a 1k product are you really saving yourself any time in comparison to putting it in a spray gun and spotting it in? :blink:Looks good. :clappy
There’s a peach if I ever saw one. :lol1
I can see the negatives to the mixed products not curing in cold temps.
But storage wise, as long as it isn’t freezing and it isn’t extremely hot (40-110*F range)
You should be perfectly fine.Like Jimmo says, it’s the reaction between the Isocyanate and the polyol. Which yes when too cold will either slow or completely stop the reaction between the two. The Isocyanate side will continue to cure with moisture leaving nothing for the alcohol to react with, (Causing it to never cure) But when polyol is returned to the proper temperatures it is fully reactive again. The same applies for the peroxide.
So in my personal opinion, as long as it doesn’t get so cold or hot that it damages the product.
You should be perfectly fine with storage. Just don’t even attempt to spray it in any conditions colder or hotter than suggested.Infact because it’s solvent based. it probably even has a lower freezing point than water. (This is why they aren’t scared to ship Solvent based products during the winter.) thus you could probably safely store it in freezing conditions. (Although I wouldn’t suggest it because none of us want to find a bunch of exploded cans in our cabinets.)