Richard
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What are you guys talking about when you say 3m Long boards?
All I’ve ever seen were the little stubby rubber and foam ones, and then the Wooden or structured plastic Sanding Files. (Which weren’t all that big)The little stubby stick it blocks are okay, but I never liked any of the files I got because they all were meant for standard paper with the little grabber clips on each end, rather than for the stick it paper.
And I always felt like I didn’t get as flat of a cut with the paper flopping around like that.Or they were meant for the hookit paper. Which I sort of got the feeling of not quite as straight as stick it again (Because of the inconsistent “Fluffy” surface between the hook and loop.)
I’ve been looking into the Kblocks with the hard plastic plate on the bottom so that the edges of the board don’t round, and it stays flat and what not.
I did have the same problem with my durablocks. Amazingly my durablocks that are still as straight as the day I got it is my 26″ and 36″ even though I use them more often. I’m pretty sure it’s water that fucks the Durablocks up (As far as making them bow). My worst off ones are the ones I’ve used for wet sanding.
I didn’t notice too much problems speed wise.
But it seems like the forum is working a little faster then usual.Hope all you guys had a good one.
Sure most of ya’ are still wounded. :cheersThe way you guys swarm to drama. Startin ta’ think you’re all a bunch of women. 😆
Those are Bonnets.
I don’t like using Bonnets. They don’t hold up very well. And the rubber Backer is a pita makes it only possible to use it completely flat. They’re not wound like the wool pads so they break apart too easy, It’s more of something you’d use for waxing IMO.I like Hard Backed Wool Pads. Like these. Just has a plastic Hook and Loop backing plate. and you just throw your Hook and loop buffer backing plate on it.
[img]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u79/chemicalGuys7/woolpad.jpg[/img]There are several manufactures, several different styles, and several different types of wools and synthetics.
Wool pads are very forgiving, you can buff up against a vertical edge without it screwing it up like a Foam would.
You can buff up to edges with a wool. but you have to use a little more caution then you would a foam. If the edge of the pad hits it you’ll be fine, but get to much catching the edge, and of course it will try to drag the buffer. But then again so will foam.
But just like with Foam all you have to do is learn to buff away from your edge, rather than against it.Both foam and Wool have their place. And I use both.
But Wool is definitely where the speed for initial cut is at.
Where as Foam is more for final cut and removing swirls.Yup, I know exactly what you’re talking about, all I can really say is go with a coarser Compound on your first cut.
I personally like using Wools/synthetic Wools for my initial cut.
Seems to cut out 2000-2500 better then my coarse foams.
And it doesn’t produce as much heat as foams, so you don’t have to worry so much.ODG, Painted Glass Back splashes are VERY common. (Just google it, you’ll get a better idea of what he’s talking about.)
This is not an uncommon practice. And it’s done every day.The problem with the vinyl like he said, is he has to glue it to the backboard.
You won’t get any more adhesion to the glass with vinyl then you would anything else.
Which in comparison sort of makes it a waste of effort. (You wouldn’t glue a windshield to something via the vinyl decal, so why would you glue a vinyl decal to a wall to hold up a large piece of glass?)It’s definitely not any type of adhesion promoter I’ve ever used.
The stuff is applied VIA a standard kitchen sprayer, and then instantly wiped away until squeaking sound is heard. :wak
I’m sure it is some type of acid or something that chemically etches the surface instantly.But one thing I’ll assure you, is I’ll bet every big paint manufacture out there has an adhesion promoter for glass. Just do a little research.
Although it isn’t anything I’ve ever done. Painting glass is fairly common nowadays.
One thing I do see is that they use *GP083 Glassprimer glass surface molecular activator”
Which looks like basically an adhesion promoter for glass, and according to the P-sheet, i can be used with most all Urethane coatings.
Sounds like basically all you need is a adhesion promoter for glass. And you can do whatever you want over that with Automotive Urethanes.
Sort of sounds similar to the adhesion promoter rags glass guys use around windshields to get a better bond to the glass with their Window Urethanes.
Although I’m not sure how it would look from the opposite side. Perhaps use an abrasive blaster to etch the back side of the glass? Like they blast pictures into glass? And use that for mechanical adhesion?
If you have to maintain a sheer strength on it, I would choose to go with a Single Stage Urethane over a Basecoat/Clearcoat system. The base coat will be your weak point every time.
Single stage is more durable, and you don’t have to worry about clearing an area that isn’t even going to be visible. (Sounds like a waste of effort to me)Clears a whole different story for me, I run that gun right around 16-19 psi. Clear doesn’t need to be greatly atomized, in fact it’s easier to get a visual lay down of it if it isn’t atomizing like crazy. (Because from the start it lays with more texture.)
I have the LV cap which doesn’t atomize the higher viscosity of Single Stage all that well.
So I crank it up a little to get better atomization on metallics. (Metallics isn’t really what the LV air cap is designed for.)Looks awesome, little curious to see the whole car now Jim.
If I remember correctly it all originally started out being $375 for the whole kit install.
it is fairly common for people to use Single Stage Urethanes on Engine blocks.
Which would probably be the route I would go.
Simply because with all the heat, and chip resistance you need. you want as little material on there as possible.I would probably go a coat or two of epoxy based Sealer. And Single stage right over that.
And yes, that is also more than any person on minimum wage can afford here to.