Richard
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[b]nick@dunsdale wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]i dont think your doing too bad steve. you might not be getting rich but its not bad anyway. the cost of health ins is no joke either. we get ours through my wife’s job. she is the office manager so its her job to take care of that for everyone and every year the cost just goes up and up. last time i checked for us being on the family plan was over $1200 a month. that alone is worth about 10 a hour.[/quote]wow $1200 per month for family health cover thats astounding, $1200 is more than a months wage for someone here on minimum wage.[/quote]
Welcome to the United States Jim.
The average family health plan costs around $13500 a year here and goes up every year…
Once you start to add up your benefits, that costs about $7-$10 an hour. You’re really not getting paid all that bad.Like they said, one option would be to drop you works insurance, get paid the extra. And try to find a cheaper Personal insurance plan. But you probably wouldn’t get too far.
(But it is free to get some quotes on health insurance. So it might be worth looking into.)
:welc
You want to lay Single stage a lot like you are Clear, (What you see is what you get) So you want to lay it on wet, but just wet enough that it doesn’t run on you.
Up the pressure a little for better atomization (For getting even metallic distribution) as well as more fluid movement.
The lower pressure is fine for Clears, because you’re not too worried about atomizing clear coat all that much.
Single stage is quite thick, so you’ll want to run it as far open as you can.
I always adjust my fluid needle as far out as possible before I start adjusting my Gun speed.
If your fluid is all the way out, and you’re still getting the dry spray, slow your gun speed down.If it starts getting too wet, that is when you either crank your fluid in, or speed up gun speed.
Basically speed is key when doing this, the last thing you want is to finish shooting only to find the first panel you shot covered in heavy dry spray.
As far as the repair. It looks too large to bury, so your only option is going to be to let it setup, hit it with 600-800 and shoot er’ again…
All they’re talking about it how they are both members of the other forum, and that we’re all just a bunch of Yanks and Englishmen. :lol1
[b]Whitesnake wrote:[/b]
[quote]Geez some of the new cars these days have a finish like that bumper cover right from the factory…lol.[/quote]Yeah, and everything Ding paints has that finish. 😉 :lol1
I am a little curious what ol’ Stoner ended up doing.
The problem is that opening there is about the size of a dime, even a Dremel tool would be hard to get in there. and if you did do to the small sides you would likely burn through the clear on the sides.
IMO the only options are to let it ride, or sand that area out, scuff and re shoot.
:welc
It is the difference between owning a Geo Metro and a Bugatti Veyron.
in basic concept they both do basically the same thing.But more in depth, in the end the Bugatti is designed to run cleaner, faster, Safer and more efficiently.
But in the end are all the bells and whistles really worth the cost?
And just like with with car brands and models, there are plenty of decent “middle of the line” booths, and decent prices out there to be had. Just do your research before you put your money into that kind of investment.
[b]MoCoke wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]I got a quote on a garmat frontier booth with a 1 millon BTU heater, solid back, double skin installed for $65,645.00[/quote]for a steel box with a couple of fans? god damn![/quote]
Most professional booths do indeed cost that much.
Most the shop guys I’ve talked to with what they consider “Top of the line booths” paid between 50-70 thousand for them.
Most of them basically have a mortgage for 5-10-15 years on them to.But most also have quite a bit of technology built into them in comparison to a basic economy booth.
High amount of adjust-ability. Dual insulated walls, Fire suppression systems, Flow metered/dampened floors, precise bake cycles, Max filter efficiency, max power efficiency.
They are precisely tested and setup for even spray flow patterns, Through flow metering dampening.
Most professional booths guarantee a 10 micron spray zone. Meaning, if you add no contaminates to the area (IE: Contaminants coming off the car, you, or other items placed in the booth) you are guaranteed a constant 10 micron work area surrounding the car.The Economy units are just as you said, a metal box with some fans and lights… They are designed to meet spray requirements and nothing more.
The crap they go through for the big name booths, is in no doubt excessive. You call one of those companies and they can tell you some of the most in depth bullshit you’ve ever heard.
Does that make them worth 70 grand though?
Well I guess that is up to the buyer.
If used correctly will a big name booth provide a cleaner finish in comparison to a economy booth?
With all the in depth testing they go through? I have no doubt in my mind they will.But the only place I can see anyone giving a shit about a couple extra nibs to cut and buff, is in an extremely high production shop.
Sadly they don’t exactly hold their value though, a 10 year old “Top of the line booth” is worth about a 1/4 of what it cost new. Especially with all these shops going under.
I would say if you’re in the market for a booth, do your research, and check locally for used booths.All an economy booth is going to do is get you by.
But at the same time, Economy booths hold their value well. So there is no reason an upgrade later is out of the option.He did say that he did not do it…
He’s just polishing a scratch.Sort of neat. Wonder what he abraded it with?
Looks good from here.
The only time I would suggest rivets is if you’re using panel bond adhesive…
Just riveting a piece of metal is creating a sandwiched area for moisture to accumulate.I have never once in all the old garbage I have worked on seen an “Old school” Rivet job not fail.
If you don’t trust your welding skill. Then use panel adhesive.
Weld it, and if it’s the same welder I’m thinking about it goes down to 30 amps.
Which is more than acceptable for sheet metal… When I first started doing this stuff, I welded sheetmetal with a mig welder that only went down to 60 amps for a couple years.
You’ll learn how to adjust your heat through wire speed, and gun distance.
A welder setup right can do amazing things, a welder that isn’t setup right will create a mess.
There practically is no middle ground, especially when using cheap minimal adjustment welders.My question is why 22 gauge? That’s damn thin for any part on a 71′ Ford that I can think of…
90% of that truck is 20 gauge or thicker.Using thinner sheet metal then what’s on the body isn’t going to give you much more than a patch in the middle of a panel that likes to oil can and make body work a PITA.
As far as welding technique. You NEVER weld a single bead all the way around a patch on sheet-metal. You’ll warp the *** outta’ it pulling that.
Always leap frog. Spot weld after spotweld on opposite corners until it all meets together as one.
Making sure you aren’t getting too much heat on the panel. If it starts to get too hot. Stop and let it cool down before you continue.Yep, that’s a toughy.
The problem is Stone does tons of these things for this place, and they put them on, so it’ll never go unnoticed.
I’d say all you’d have to do is knock down the front edge of the run and polish it out, but I’ve painted enough of those to know you have no chance of getting any sort of buffer in that tiny bolt indentation.
Your best bet is to knock the run down with 400, scuff the rest of it, re-base in there and clear the whole thing again.