Richard

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  • April 19, 2010 at 1:07 am #20742

    Happy Birthday ya’ ol’ fart.

    April 13, 2010 at 11:29 am #20641

    I’d hit it. 😉

    April 2, 2010 at 1:16 am #20495

    Hobo freight has finally released their model (After 4 years of playing with it.)

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94996&xcamp=google&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc&zmam=13262200&zmas=12&zmac=112&zmap=94996

    As long as it will pass. it will look good in the corner rather you use it or not. :lol1

    April 1, 2010 at 11:34 am #20490

    The CP440 is a high build urethane.
    The CS293 is a Sealer.

    March 22, 2010 at 12:35 pm #20273

    Basically the proper method is exactly what Jimmo shows here:
    http://www.refinishnetwork.com/refinish-network-paint-jobs/how-to-repair-a-scratch-mazda-miata.html

    March 15, 2010 at 3:52 am #20132

    [b]pnlbtr4life wrote:[/b]
    [quote]Its got the track record for a ricer, 15.2 ET in the eighth mile. :lol1 It did whip a 1973 dart with a 2.40 rear gear though. :rofl[/quote]

    :lol1

    March 5, 2010 at 8:03 pm #19908

    Yeah, you’ll have no problem shooting primer out of your LPH400.
    I’ve shot just about everything through mine.

    I wouldn’t shoot poly through it. But it wouldn’t shoot it very well anyways (Tips too small.)

    You can indeed wear a gun out.
    But you have to remember the people that are wearing guns out are using it several times a day, 5 days a week, 250 days a year.

    And sometimes even then they can get years. to even a decade out of a gun.

    The guns used for thicker primer “High build/Poly’s” don’t usually last as long as say a base or clear gun.

    But to be honest, I think it is more to do with poorer cleaning habits than it is to do with wear.

    February 18, 2010 at 2:47 am #19620

    When did you get a Contracting job? :cheer: :lol1

    I’ll bet you couldn’t get a lifted truck up that driveway without bottoming out the bumper…

    February 15, 2010 at 9:12 pm #19587

    I’m not so sure there is a real definition of how wet a coat should be.

    It changes from product to product. Brand to brand it seems.

    I’ve shot things that you had to hose on to get absolutely any coverage at all.
    And I’ve shot things that would mottle if you tried to even go half as far.
    It also changes a bit with different colors, metallics, and pearls.

    Sure there is a basic idea as to what you’re looking for while shooting.

    And you could probably make a basic “Starting point”.
    But I only see people following it too closely and getting in trouble.

    January 29, 2010 at 11:29 pm #19042

    Yeah, I’ve got to agree, way too much work for not enough benefit.
    If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

    January 27, 2010 at 7:55 am #18956

    Well damn…
    Does it show up during your application of clear, or does it show up afterwards?

    That’s a hard one, because it is so contained.

    Looks like it could either be clear pop. or fish eyes.

    One will occur during (Fish eyes) one will occur after (Solvent Pop)

    Does seem a little big for Solvent pop.

    I would say Because:
    #1: you aren’t getting it in previous coats. (Fish eyes attacks thin base coats the hardest)
    And because:
    #2: it is so contained. (Not multiple spots all over in a small area on the surface. The chances of having a pre paint surface contamination the size of a pen head in only one single spot and nowhere else is pretty unrealistic.)

    My bet is you’re putting it onto the surface yourself.
    Rather it be something air born in the shop. or some sort of Contamination coming from you, your air compressor, your air line, your gun, your heating source, virtually anything that it can be exposed to.

    My guess would be you’re over working your air compressor or dryer system and by your final coats it’s just had enough.

    You have a small leak in your airhose/fittings by chance?

    What is your heat source?

    I’m not sure, you got me stumped Nexson.
    The fact that it isn’t showing up in your basecoats, and that it is so contained leads me to believe you’re putting it on there during your final coats.

    January 26, 2010 at 11:26 pm #18938

    When I spray SS with a flattening agent I usually mix my Reducer/Flattener/Hardener in one cup. Then add it to my cup of base.
    I find it mixes in better that way.

    I sprayed it like clear.
    And as far as gloss. With the PPG system I was using. I didn’t see the final result for well over 12 hours.

    I was also told when de-glossing Single stage that you should up the ratio a bit because Single Stage black is harder to flatten then Base/Clear.
    I can’t recall my ratio to achieve the semi gloss black.
    But as I recall using their gloss scale, I just used the next step down.
    I wanted semi gloss so I mixed for egg shell. Which I seem to recall being pretty close to 1:1 (Just under)

    And to be honest, it still came out a tad glossier than Semi gloss.
    But it looked good none the less.

    January 25, 2010 at 9:55 pm #18908

    I see you have the same multi colored filler work that I do… Bondo says he can keep all his coats the exact same color. I call bull…

    January 25, 2010 at 9:53 pm #18907

    That’s the filler work you’ve been speaking of? That’s it? Sheit, Why are you skimping on the filler ya’ cheap bastard. :rofl

    January 25, 2010 at 9:46 pm #18906

    Screw that, if I ran into a trunk lid that was like that, I’d just masked it and do a clean seam seal job on it… Keeps the shit in and doesn’t look too bad either. :lol1

Viewing 15 posts - 271 through 285 (of 533 total)