Richard
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Hobo freight has finally released their model (After 4 years of playing with it.)
As long as it will pass. it will look good in the corner rather you use it or not. :lol1
Basically the proper method is exactly what Jimmo shows here:
http://www.refinishnetwork.com/refinish-network-paint-jobs/how-to-repair-a-scratch-mazda-miata.htmlYeah, you’ll have no problem shooting primer out of your LPH400.
I’ve shot just about everything through mine.I wouldn’t shoot poly through it. But it wouldn’t shoot it very well anyways (Tips too small.)
You can indeed wear a gun out.
But you have to remember the people that are wearing guns out are using it several times a day, 5 days a week, 250 days a year.And sometimes even then they can get years. to even a decade out of a gun.
The guns used for thicker primer “High build/Poly’s” don’t usually last as long as say a base or clear gun.
But to be honest, I think it is more to do with poorer cleaning habits than it is to do with wear.
I’m not so sure there is a real definition of how wet a coat should be.
It changes from product to product. Brand to brand it seems.
I’ve shot things that you had to hose on to get absolutely any coverage at all.
And I’ve shot things that would mottle if you tried to even go half as far.
It also changes a bit with different colors, metallics, and pearls.Sure there is a basic idea as to what you’re looking for while shooting.
And you could probably make a basic “Starting point”.
But I only see people following it too closely and getting in trouble.Well damn…
Does it show up during your application of clear, or does it show up afterwards?That’s a hard one, because it is so contained.
Looks like it could either be clear pop. or fish eyes.
One will occur during (Fish eyes) one will occur after (Solvent Pop)
Does seem a little big for Solvent pop.
I would say Because:
#1: you aren’t getting it in previous coats. (Fish eyes attacks thin base coats the hardest)
And because:
#2: it is so contained. (Not multiple spots all over in a small area on the surface. The chances of having a pre paint surface contamination the size of a pen head in only one single spot and nowhere else is pretty unrealistic.)My bet is you’re putting it onto the surface yourself.
Rather it be something air born in the shop. or some sort of Contamination coming from you, your air compressor, your air line, your gun, your heating source, virtually anything that it can be exposed to.My guess would be you’re over working your air compressor or dryer system and by your final coats it’s just had enough.
You have a small leak in your airhose/fittings by chance?
What is your heat source?
I’m not sure, you got me stumped Nexson.
The fact that it isn’t showing up in your basecoats, and that it is so contained leads me to believe you’re putting it on there during your final coats.When I spray SS with a flattening agent I usually mix my Reducer/Flattener/Hardener in one cup. Then add it to my cup of base.
I find it mixes in better that way.I sprayed it like clear.
And as far as gloss. With the PPG system I was using. I didn’t see the final result for well over 12 hours.I was also told when de-glossing Single stage that you should up the ratio a bit because Single Stage black is harder to flatten then Base/Clear.
I can’t recall my ratio to achieve the semi gloss black.
But as I recall using their gloss scale, I just used the next step down.
I wanted semi gloss so I mixed for egg shell. Which I seem to recall being pretty close to 1:1 (Just under)And to be honest, it still came out a tad glossier than Semi gloss.
But it looked good none the less.- AuthorPosts