Richard
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:agree
Yup, if it’s metal Weld it, If it’s fiberglass it Glass it, if it’s Plastic Weld or Glue it.[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=19760]Imagine that, a 3 stooges pic.[/quote]
Who’da thunk it! :whistle:
Everyone was talking about them and talking about getting one when they first came out a few years ago. But to be honest, I know of nobody that ever actually got one.
Guess the 500 dollar price tag was a little hefty for an “Unknown” gun. I’m still not too sure about the whole nozzle/cup releasing from the gun and screwing another on.
Seems to me if you’re going through that much effort, might as well just buy a couple cheaper guns and save yourself the trouble of trying to swap those heads all the damn time.
Some of the demo video’s I’ve seen they look on the slow side to.Yup, I just dumped the 3m for the Presta Scuff Stuff.
Trust me it works a lot better then the expensive ass 3m crap.Yeah, those air polishers take some massive amounts of air…
To be honest I’ve never used one I liked. They just don’t have the guts behind them and the wind tunnel of air that comes out of them could drive you up the wall.
Not to mention they’ll freeze your hands off.Wait a minute now…
Think we got some extremely high expectations here.Yeah the tiny inner diameter ball valves doesn’t make much sense. Why create an un necessary restriction.
Most people don’t run ball valves right off their compressor anyways. It being there is a convenience at most. Chances are you’ll never use it… Your compressor doesn’t have near the capability to produce any amount of volume that fitting won’t flow anyways.
(When I’m Sand Blasting, And I run my Compressors I’m producing Right around 60 CFM at 125 PSI. and I can overwhelm that much Air Volume Plus Storage through a 1/4″ Blasting Tip.)
(In fact if I remember correctly, you can put nearly 100 Cubic feet of air per minute through a 1/4 inch opening at 120 PSI)I haven’t seen a decent pressure switch yet tbh. They’re all crap.
The best I’ve seen was on a BelAire Compressor. Externally It was all metal, but at the same time the internals were cheap ass Plastic switches to. (So I still wouldn’t call it great.)The pvc fitting actually isn’t a bad thing. On high vibration parts metal conduit tends to fuck shit up.
Removed sticker? Seriously? Who cares.
Flaws in the paint? It’s a damn air compressor. Only reason it’s painted at all is oxidation protection. Nothing else. Go look at any industrial equipment and find me any with decent paint (trust me you won’t)
a good paint job on a tractor is one that is thoroughly painted. It’s about durability. Not how pretty it is.And 1600 is nowhere near an expensive compressor. (Quite a bit of that was probably shipping to boot.)
To be honest you probably won’t find MANY if ANY below that cost with similar ratings. Hell that’s probably more in the lines of a damn cheap compressor as far as cost goes.
Look at dings. I’ll bet he paid at least 5 for his…
Hell I’ll bet you a single pump replacement on Dings cost more then you paid for your whole setup. When I looked locally for a Pump, a new Ingersoll-Rand Pump (Rating for 7.5 HP) The Bare Pump alone was nearly $1600.They’re not cheap tools. The real question is how do they last.
For the most part they’re good investments. Most shops on here have been running the same compressors for 20-30 years with little issue.
Hell I know some farm guys running 1950’s air compressors to this day with litte more than fixing rust holes in the tank.Lookin good. :clappy
I hate to tell you this Ding, but Blove’s puts out nearly identical CFM as yours. 😛
Just makes you look like you’re trying to compensate with the bigger size. 😆I got the Eaton 4 Cylinder 2 Stage 10 Horse pump, Had some issues with the cheap fittings on it. And I haven’t had an extreme amount of luck with the Bullwhip Throttle Control.
It’s been awhile since I ran it because it’s Gas powered, (No Phase Converter yet) but other than I noticed a small oil leak the other day, I haven’t had any issue with the pump itself yet.Looks good Nick
Lookin good. :pcorn:
Lookin Good Ding. :rock
I use Lacquer thinner
And nope you gotta’ use Urethane reducer for that.
Most all basecoats have a hardener available for the system.
You can get buy without it, but using it provides better chip resistance and it prevents messes like this, simply because it makes the base not so easily softened by solvents.What hardener you should use entirely depends on the Basecoat you’re using, your P-sheets should inform you of this.
If I remember correctly ChromaBase uses Chroma Premier #12305S Activator. (Don’t quote me on this, Refer to the P-Sheets!)As far as brands go. Dupont is fine, just a little less user friendly then some others out there.
If you got the Dupont Materials, use them.Also I agree with Joe. because you misted so much on there, the basecoat you put on is pretty dry, and probably fairly unstable.
Since this was a spot repair, you don’t have a whole lot of base on there. Just strip all the Basecoat you applied off, then buzz down the rest. The Hardened Clear won’t react to solvents the way the un-activated Basecoat did. So you shouldn’t have any issue as long as you don’t have any of that basecoat you applied exposed. You want to remove all of it, because if you even have an edge of unactivated basecoat beneath your clear exposed the solvents will seap into it beneath your clearcoat and raise your clearcoat edge. Basically causing the exact same problem. so it’s best to remove it.After that, Then just seal the area where you removed the base, and start over.
The one issue you’re going to have is if you don’t sand all the clear you applied down, you’re going to have to build the area where you stripped the unactivated basecoat back up. Otherwise you’ll basically have a big indent from not having all that film build in that area. So just knock all the clear you applied down, and give yourself a fresh smooth surface to start with again.
Like I said about blending Clear.
It’s a crutch. Generally the only reason it is performed ever is in a situation where they have to. (Like the body man chipped the bumper installing it, and the car gets picked up in a few hours, you don’t have time to redo the whole thing.)A Clear blend will never be a lasting repair, as the original clear and the new clear fades at different rates the edges will begin to become visible. and the old fading clear will begin the make the new clear edge slowly lift.
Like I said, blending base is not done through misting, it’s done through mixing in transparent basecoat. (It has many names. but it’s basically basecoat, which has no color added to it.) And accomplishing your fade by gradually making your color more transparent. (Usually by the time you get to the end of your blend area the mixed basecoat looks nearly like clearcoat with metallics in it.)
:agree
And also the Sheets thing?
You can use sheets for Primers. (Never directly up to your primer edge, more less just to keep mists off surrounding area’s) But you always want to use Coated Papers, or Paintable Plastic sheeting for your Base/Clear. Otherwise you’re just begging for garbage/lint to be flying off and land into your paint job.