Richard
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For an overall (Including jambs) I always buy a gallon (3.78 liters) of the main color. And I usually use about 3.5 quarts (3.31 Liters) of it.
Your car is a little smaller than most things I’ve painted.
I would say 3 quarts (2.8 liters) is probably do-able.
But I would buy the gallon anyways. Always better to have too much than not enough.
And the worse thing you can do is run out of base and get another quart mixed. They’ll never get the mix identical and It is always a shade off. (Been there done that…) :whistle:And having a little extra gives you room to make some errors. and redo some parts, and even have some left over for down the road.
Like I said, if you’re getting much trash, just lighten up some.
All putting base on too wet will lead you to is mottling. (Metallics will begin to float)With base you should (Most of the time) be just wet enough that you can still wipe your mild trash out with a tack rag before the next coat. If you’re burying it, just lighten up a tad.
And to be honest, I’ve never met a painter that didn’t start out putting base on too heavy. It’s just our nature to make it shiny. :lol1And you’re using Sherwin Williams DIMENSION Basecoats?
Nope. just hit your Trash and shoot over it.
Unhardened base coats are open indefinitely.
Meaning Solvents will forever be able to penetrate them. And you will always be able to achieve a chemical bond over it.But me personally, I would never wait after a few days, base coat becomes too dirty after just a few days and requires an extra coat before going straight to Clear.
If I was going to scuff my unhardened base. I would see no reason to do it as long as you keep it within the 7 day window.With Hardened basecoats I think typically you’re looking at 2-4 days before you have to scuff.
So you don’t have to scuff your base. Just go right over it with another coat of base, and then clear.
Another thing to mention is if you’re getting a ton of shit in your basecoat. You’re probably hammering it on too wet. It isn’t clear. it doesn’t need to be a lake.
Once you learn not to put your base on so heavy, the trash becomes minimal to non existent in your base.
Just remember, never leave trash in your base if you plan to buff. If you can physically feel it to the touch, You’ll cut right through the clear on the high spots while buffing.
Just trash in your base coat?
Just level the trash out with 800 and throw another coat on.
You can either lightly blend out the area. or just throw another coat on the whole thing.You get more, wait at least 30 minutes (Or longer depending on temp/film build, yada yada yada) hit it with 800 and base it again… (Be careful. the edges of your paper will put ruts into the soft surface.)
Now if this is single stage.
Choose rather your a picky bastard. and if you are, hit it with some 2000 and buff it out.I’ll tell you now. Don’t go too far in your engine compartment.
You’ll only screw it up during reassembly. Murphy’s law… :SFor some reason if you let a few boo boo’s slide. it doesn’t seem to get scraped up as much during reassembly… Call my crazy, but that’s how it works for me.
[img]http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii246/CrimsonRockett/DSCF0357.jpg[/img]
If that doesn’t confirm Bondo did this job, I don’t know what does. :blink: :lol1
Yeah, the guy that did the work is a hack.
But some of the stuff he just seems to be reaching for straws.Like the whole scrape on the side of the bumper.
“Oh it just lightly hit the curb and the paint fell right off!”Uh yeah, and the 24 grit scratches into the plastic was just the guys prep work…
I’ve ran into the topic many times, I think it was even posted here.
Amazed it is still up and going.
It took the new shop like 10-11 months to fit that kit and paint the car.Makes me feel good. :lol1
I guess that is what you should expect when you get a estimate for 250 bucks to do a full body kit…
I wouldn’t touch half the half assed body kits on the market…
If only owners would realize that cheaping out on the body kits will just end up costing them more in the end.15 feet? damn, he’s got me beat. My record is only 3.5 feet. :lol1
Cut in just means he’s going to shoot the jambs. Assemble the car, mask the jambs off and shoot the rest of the car.
He likes paint lines in his jambs. That’s all 😛
I personally am very fond of the 4:1. I have no issues sanding.
I like to use the Poly’s because they don’t shrink up like the urethanes do, they offer more build, and they sand easier.
And as bondo puts it: “They lock shit down”High end? Sheesh… You obviously haven’t met Bondo. :whistle:
To be honest I don’t think anyone is Flaming you.
I’m just amazed that painting cars for 195 and making profit is even possible.
I couldn’t paint a car for myself (Free labor) for those kinds of rates…Macco doesn’t even paint cars for that.
Yes they say they do. But they don’t. It’s called the bait and switch. Get you in the door, and explain to you all the reasons why you shouldn’t go with that one, you should go with this one and yada yada yada…Next thing you know your 195 dollar paint job that you saw advertised is nearly a grand.
[b]jantxx wrote:[/b]
[quote]To Joe…There always has been a good market for the low end paints..There are just way too many folks that just dont have the money to pay $500-1000 for there 1991 Toyota..
Dennis[/quote]500-1000 for a repaint? :lol1
Try doubling, or even tripling it a few times.I know shops around here that will charge a $500-1000 to fix a few scratches.
I don’t really get the 195 dollar Paint job thing.
I mean even if you can blow out a car a day. What are we talking here? Three employees. That breaks down to what? about 4 bucks an hour profit each?
And to be honest. I can’t imagine a 3 man shop putting out 365 cars a year.
And even if you could, you’re only talking 47 grand a year spread out between employees, shop costs, overhead… Seems near impossible even if you don’t have any overhead.I’ll be honest… If you came to me expecting a 195 dollar paint job. I’d grab the Ajax and a can of rustoleum… :wak
Yeah, one more time and we were going to let Han have it! 😉
400 for sealer. 600 for base.
The FC720 and 710 is really good stuff. But I wouldn’t touch any of their other clears though…
And other than their solvents I’m not sure I’d use anything else in the finish 1 line. :unsure:It’s good shiet. 😉
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote]Follow bondomerchant closely, he’s the low end paint job specialist! :rofl [/quote]Ha!… :rofl :clappy
Welcome to the forum, there’s definitely some good products out there for reasonable prices.
Let’s just say I “Get the good stuff!” :lol1
:welc