Richard

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  • December 3, 2009 at 9:32 pm #17430

    Yep
    You can convert the Iwata LPH 400 to work with most any material with just a cap change.

    The only difference is indeed the cap.

    I may be able to help you out on price.
    Just look around, see what deal you can find, and I’ll see if I can beat it.

    December 3, 2009 at 4:51 am #17412

    Yep, but get some Scuff it compound.
    The stuff cuts scuffing times in half, and it cleans the surface at the same time. Can’t go wrong.

    December 3, 2009 at 3:04 am #17407

    I did that Frame on the B2 in Por15 and Lined over it.
    Later on down the road the truck got a Power Steering leak.
    The power steering fluid didn’t touch the liner, but it stripped the por15 right off behind it… resistant to power steering fluid my ass.

    I haven’t bought an ounce of the stuff since. Pissed me off.
    I still have a bit of it around the shop. But I think I’m going to switch off to Zero rust. Seem to get just as much protection for a lot less of the cost.

    Only place I use the stuff is as a Rust Prevention behind panels. And that’s just about it. If it’s visible I use epoxy.
    And the only reason I use it there is because there is no mixing all I’ve got to do is brush it on.

    In a lot of situations the Zero rust seems to be holding up better anyways.

    November 30, 2009 at 4:12 am #17349

    [b]zarbat007 wrote:[/b]
    [quote]Wow those are great prices!
    You are pretty much right on shipping, around $25 or so to Canada. Is the silver supreme actually better than other two? If so, hook me up! :cheer:
    What is the difference between those 2 spirits?

    If its no problem for you, I’ll take a 6″, 3/16 Non-vacuum silver supreme, plus USPS shipping to Canada, it will take 2 weeks to get to Canada, just like UPS.

    Let me know! :cheer:[/quote]

    Yeah, my supplier works Wholesale direct through many of the manufactures distributers. And I get wholesale prices through my account with them, So I can usually beat any advertised price. (Usually)

    As far as if it’s better. I don’t really know.
    The visual differences I see between the Spirit and the Silver Supreme
    is the Spirit has a .25 HP motor, and the Supreme has a .26 HP motor.

    There is also a Dynorbital Supreme #56890
    Which is a .28 HP Motor. But I can only get it in 3/8s orbit.
    Which is on sale for 165.99

    The difference between the two spirits?
    In all honesty I see no difference at all spec wise. But that’s really all I have to look at.
    Ones red, ones blue… That’s pretty much all I see. :exci
    Everything else looks pretty similar.

    You seem to find in this industry that a manufacture will have one line that works beautifully. And another that’s not quite as good.

    But it looks like that’s all they sell over at ABS so there are probably quite a few guys using them. Maybe someone can tune in here.

    As far as shipping times, I’ll have to get it sent down to utah from Dynabrade Distribution in New York. So it would probably be 5 business days to me, 6-10 business days to you. (Time to send to most locations in Canada according to USPS)

    Richard

    November 30, 2009 at 2:55 am #17343

    [b]zarbat007 wrote:[/b]
    [quote]Hi RatStang.

    I’ve decided to go with 3/16 orbit, which I think is the perfect for “all around” tasks.

    So far my choice is like the one Bloverby mentioned, but 3/16 throw.
    http://www.dynabrade.com/dyn09/content.php?page=quicksearch&search=21035

    So far there are only 2 ebay stores that carry this: one of them wants $84 for shipping, :blink: other is asking $25 for shopping but its UPS. I hate their ridiculous COD fees.

    BTW: how does these sander compare to 21035:

    http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Av61000&Category_Code=

    Is the silver supreme any better than spirit?
    http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DYN69040&Category_Code=%5B/quote%5D

    Okay, lets see.

    My price on the
    #59025 6″ Dynabrade Spirit 3/16s throw
    $145.95

    #21035 6″ Dynabrade Spirit 3/16s throw
    $144.99

    Looks like the 6″ #69029 Dynabrade Silver Supreme 3/16s throw
    is actually on sale right now for $149.99

    Shipping, I would assume if it would fit in a USPS medium flat rate box you’re looking at about $24 bucks. (That’s what I paid for the last flat rate box I sent to Canada.

    I can usually get shipping less if I can send it as First class.
    But first class is usually slower. (I’m not so sure about canada, but when I send first class packages over seas they take about twice as long as priority.)

    November 29, 2009 at 11:01 pm #17336

    I can get the Dynabrade 59014 Spirit for $125.99 through my Supplier.
    I’m not sure how much it would cost to get it to Canada. But I could check.
    Where are you located in Canada?

    November 29, 2009 at 10:55 pm #17335

    No doubt some nice work ya’ do there. Welcome aboard.

    November 27, 2009 at 10:57 pm #17289

    So can someone explain Wiggle wire to me? I’ve never seen it done.
    I would assume you just spot/tack weld the wire in multiple places. and then pull from the other side?

    November 27, 2009 at 10:52 pm #17288

    That’s pretty cool.
    Watching some of the video’s it seems like they took all the steps necessary to fully complete the repair. Nothing seems left out.

    But damn, I’ll bet it is damn expensive…
    So what are we talking? 30 grand? :unsure:

    November 27, 2009 at 7:08 am #17282

    Boyz got skillz.

    November 27, 2009 at 2:55 am #17275

    If I’m shooting primer, I’ll re-percolate it. Check for chunks coming out, if no chucks I’ll test spray it with the solvent. If fine I’ll move on.

    If any chunks. I tear down.

    For Clear I always tear down.

    For Base I always tear down.

    November 27, 2009 at 2:51 am #17273

    Usually the instant I’m done shooting I pour any remaining materials out.
    Hit it with a little bit of solvent, shake it around to get the paint off the insides of the cup.
    Then pull the trigger and let half about cleanup solvent run through the passages.
    Take a paper towel wipe the inside of the cup with the remaining solvent,
    Then throw new solvent in, Peculate it. Pour the solvent out
    Put just a tad bit of solvent in the bottom of the cup.
    Throw it on the gun stand. And my job is done.

    Sometimes I forget after a long shoot session, and come back to the shit all hardened in my gun… When they say 3.5 hour pot life. They really mean 1.75 hours in your gun… :wak I keep learning this the hard way. :cens

    November 26, 2009 at 1:35 am #17237

    I heard the cost for the refills is a little unrealistic.
    But other than that I’ve heard it works out pretty nice.
    Even helps reduce down on the pinholes and what not.

    November 26, 2009 at 1:21 am #17236

    Yeah, I’ve heard quite a few good things about them.

    November 24, 2009 at 2:53 am #17167

    I hate those inner door corner patches…
    Especially on the mustangs because not only do you have to work with the weird ass angles they got. You also have to work out the Vinyl texture on the door panel so it isn’t so obvious.

    Looks like she’s coming along nicely though.

Viewing 15 posts - 346 through 360 (of 533 total)