Richard
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As far as solutions. There’s a lot of solutions to fix this.
Some are more risky then others.You can Sand down where it is lifting. And probably get away with a Waterbased Sealer, or an Epoxy sealer. Just to lock your burn thru’s down.
But I would probably give it a few days to off gas prior to sealing it. Simply because Epoxies and Waterbased sealers don’t off gas as fast as Urethanes, thus you probably don’t want to be placing another system like that directly over the fresh clear until it slows down on it’s off gassing a little.
Then Base the damn thing… And no you don’t mist it to do a blend, you reduce your basecoats with a Clearbase, or basecoat Blender (Not Reducer, Basically just transparent basecoat) Then work your way out from each coat, reducing it more and more each time (each step out your base becomes more transparent, thus blending more and more into your blend area)
Or if you just did a spot blend with your basecoat just sand down and get rid of all your basecoat in that area. Seal, and reapply base. then clear…
And by the way… The whole blending clear on that?
wtf were you thinking? Blending clear is not the way to go, Blending clear is a crutch. Something you do only when you absolutely have to. (It’s not a lasting repair, and it’s extremely hard to make it an invisible one)
Always clear the whole panel.
The mere fact that you blended clear simply to avoid doing a single stroke on that pillar?
What?! Mask to the damn pillar and clear the whole damn thing… :chair :compsmash :chairThis has nothing to do with Brand, it’s simply because
#1: He cut right through fresh clear into fresh Basecoat (The basecoat which lifted)
#2: He did not Harden his Basecoat, thus it easily reacts to solvents when exposed to them again. thus Lifting itself, and anything above it. (IE any Clear edges)And every Solvent Based Base/Clear System I’ve ever used when the base is not catalyzed will do just that. (RM Diamont, PPG, Valspar, Martin Manure.)
To be honest, RM Diamont has been one of the worse I’ve seen for doing that. (I guess because it uses pretty “Hot Solvents” and doesn’t flash off quite as fast as some of the others I’ve seen.)
His first mistake was not hardening his basecoats.
His Second Mistake was when he cut through his fresh clear, into his fresh non catalyzed Basecoat he did not seal his burn thru’s prior to basing again. (And yes, a lot of Urethane sealers will do just as his base did and cause it to lift like that.)I thought that to, but the way the line is straight by edges sorta has me thinking it’s the substrate.
Take a razor and peel that sheit off, if your substrate comes with it, or rather it doesn’t. Will Answer your question.
Looks to me like he’s got exposed Single Component product under it. (Cut through the clear to a non hardened basecoat perhaps?) or a 1k primer. And the solvents in the Colorcoat/Basecoat are lifting whatever it is.
I say you most likely cut through your substrates clear coat to non hardened base coat because that top picture looks like a pattern sanding would cut into it. (IE DA Sander or Blocking)
I guess the question is what are you putting your materials over?
Do you have pictures before you put the color coat on?
Did you cut through there? If you did cut through what did you cut through to?Looks real good. :rock
That’s a little weird I haven’t heard of them considering their Facility is local to me. :S
Sure hope he’s not planning on selling it. Bluebook has dropped 4k on the thing since he started on it. 😉
For Breathing? Or for Spraying?
Sad part is you already know that turd came out flawless…
Yeah but they were actually serious about your tank. 😆
No Lacquer putty on this Concourse perfect Restoration? Amateur!
Yup, that smear will cost you like 3 bucks. Not bad if you ask me. :rock
judging by the lighting over the letters you’ve got quite a few small dents to deal with?
This would be the specific one I am referring to.
[img]http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_2462.jpg[/img]
I bought the cheapo thing for my Sand Blasting Rig. and Both the Cups on it cracked and have an annoying leak around the fitting.
Yup, I have a few Chinese Filters Too.
Only thing I would say is avoid the Chinese ones with the clear/transparent Polycarbonate Cups, that have the metal cage around them. It might be the specific ones I bought, but I bought it and after a few months both the cups on the bottom cracked around the drain fitting and started to have an annoying small leak in them.
I do on the other hand have two American made ones with this similar design that have held up great. (Mainly because they use a weird little seal on the bottom, whereas the Chinese ones was just an o ring with a nut on it.