Richard
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
Yep. Looking good.
I swear those aftermarket core supports are one of those parts that always seem to be slightly oversized.
It’s like the 1/4 panels that are always a 1/4 inch longer then the originals…:rofl I’ll bet he was real proud of his work when you walked over and pulled that beauty off.
Here’s a cut speed Chart.
http://www.tptools.com/eccStoreImages/Product_Files/Files/abrasive-basics.pdfSilica is a tad bit slower cutting then Aluminum oxide for comparison.
How does Soda Blasting Differ from sand?
You know what Baking soda is right? Sodium bicarbonate? Bread Soda? Cooking Soda. Who knows what you Canadians call it.
You know you mixed it with vinegar to make a foaming volcano in school
It’s the exact same thing. Just you get a coarser grade of it.The biggest benefits of Soda Blasting over Silica/Sand blasting.
Is that Soda Blasting will not damage the panel. It won’t touch the metal at all.
It is only aggressive enough to remove stuff softer than it, IE paint.
It will not remove chrome, it will not effect glass.
It won’t etch the metal. Nothing, it will leave it as is.
The biggest benefit of Soda blasting is you can blast a fully assembled car without removing a thing. or masking anything off. This is only true to an extent because it will etch plastic parts.
It’s cheap. I think a Fifty pound bag is like 25 bucks.
And it’s Bio degradable just spray it down with Water and it dissolves and and simply washes away.Silica etches away the metal quite aggressively. They claim that even when properly used it can remove a small amount of metal thickness.
And because of it they produce a lot of heat. And they can easily warp panels.
They claim Silica is unsafe for blasting because it breaks down too fine.
It can shatter into small enough particles that filter masks cannot filter it. and that it goes right through a Masks Filter. (Something about it breaks down the filter or something)
Which of course exposure to silica dust leads to Silicosis.
And because of it SAR’s should be used.
In most the world blasting with Silica Sand is illegal. And the use of it can be prosecuted quite highly.
Most people don’t know or even care and use it for blasting anyways.There are “Treated” Silica sands intended for blasting though.
They coat it with some Resin so it doesn’t shatter into such small particles.Plastics like Urea use the same basics. They will not effect anything harder than them.
But they’re a lot more aggressive then Soda blasting because Plastic Blasting is quite course. Generally 15-30 grit.
For non metal etching blasting, Plastic is one of the fastest cutting methods.The only disadvantage to Plastic Abrasives is cost. They are probably one of the most expensive abrasives at around 2 bucks a pound.
The Advantages to it is it’s a clean blasting, the Plastic doesn’t break down at all, so it produces no dust itself.
And it is one of the most reusable blasting abrasives. It can be used 20-30 times, you only have to replace it when it gets too dull.
It’s not a throw away abrasive like pretty much all other abrasives.
You use it until it’s dull, and you return it, and they’ll Recycle it. And give you a discount on your next batch.You will need a Secondary Abrasive though because it will not touch rust.
I personally am going with Urea Plastic for paint removal, and a Garnet abrasive for rust removal.Yep the biggest problem is the Soda gets in all the little pores of the metal. Even when you wash it fills the pores and dries…
In my opinion. Soda is a good idea for the Blaster. it is a good idea for a mild abrasive. It is a good idea for the environment. It is economically a good idea.
But it absolutely sucks ass for the guy that has to prep/paint the car.
You really have to get it absolutely perfectly clean.Nothing will stick to the powderiness. It dissolves into practically anything wet enough.
And well we all know what Baking soda will do to the acids in an Etch primer. :lol1It is an absolute nightmare if you don’t get it perfectly clean…
I’d put it right up there with oils. There can be no trace left behind without consequence.In my opinion if you want a non harsh blasting abrasive. go with Plastics.
Looks good to me!
Might have to try those wool pads.
The price looks right to me.Yep. I’ve been through a lot of gloves.
And I’m using the Ravens now too…I feel my 100% was very worthy! even if it took a couple tries! :whistle:
The self healing ones that heal when excessive heat is applied would be nice. Just don’t tell the customers you just took a heat gun to their car to fix the scratch. :whistle:
Looks good.
That is actually kind of an interesting repair.
I mean most farmers in these parts run them into the ground then get a new rig.
They take care of them, but in all honesty, cosmetically they don’t seem to care much.Well I don’t make shit.
And I always seem to get a bunch of people expecting me to paint their cars for 150 bucks because macco says they can.
But I always find I can get more out of a client if I educate them.
If I sit down and explain each individual process. Including little things like Moldings, handles, Masking, and all the tiny crap that adds up. I find the more specific I make a bid, the more they understand. The more they understand, the more likely they are to accept the price.
Bondo gets on my ass for listing typical materials on my bids, instead of charging an hourly materials rate.
But I’ve wrote them both ways, and I get more work being specific.That is my experience.
of course it’s un-realistic to go into every detail with every customer, most people are only testing the waters.
But when you feel they’re serious. spend some time to explain it.
I’ll bet if you sat down and explained all the process. She’d probably better understand the “Why’s”Richard
Also this is valid on their Buffing compounds and pads too it seems.
Lot of people getting into that Norton Liquid ice system.
You go with the full set with the Dewalt Buffer, and you’ll save $45
http://www.eastwood.com/liquid-ice-polish-kit-with-dewalt-polisher.htmlHell after adding multiple items to the cart, it looks like you may be able to get it off of abrasives too. :cheer:
Me? Well I don’t buy a ton of stuff from them.
I like their prices on their in house Leading stuff, Tools, bars, Files, etc.
Sometimes I get my G2 and fillers from them, simply because their prices are competitive if I combine shipping. (Especially with discount codes)
I did purchase a rust proofing gun from them, but haven’t used it.
I also got my Devilbiss Gun set from them.
I have a couple different pints of the Eastwood Rust Proofing coatings.
But haven’t found anything to use them on either… :blush:I’ve made at least a dozen orders from them in the past.
I generally wait for their good offers then make my purchases.
Because like I said, they tend to be a tad expensive, but when they offer discounts, it’s usually damn good ones.Welcome
Congrats man!.