Richard
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With a minor buff on the door. you should be good to go. :rock
You know you’re in for fun when a car has 8 different colors of primer on every panel. :whistle:
Oh and by the way, that Sharpe Dryaire you listed, is regulated at the end, and you’d be perfectly fine putting it right in your booth and running your hoses right off of it.
I think virtually all of us have our end line/desiccant Filters in our booths.You’re talking a mid-line filter prior to your booth/dessication setup just to prolong filter life?
I would note that looking at the specs on that Filter/Regulator, Is that the fitting sizes are a little on the small side.
According to the manual this filter has a 3/8s inlet, and a 1/4 inch outlet.
The 1/4 inch outlet going back into the 1/2 inch Sharpe Dryaire filter system is going to cause quite the restriction.Manual:
http://www.itwifeuro.com/Editor/files/DEVILBISS/FINISHLINE-REG.pdfYou want to stay as big as possible until your 3/8s hoses.
I don’t really know what you guys have access to on that side of the pond as far as brands/selection goes, or rather you can wait for longer shipments.
But I would say as a midline filter.
Look at the Sharpe 707 Series
[img]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31HMBAPWMQL._SL500_AA300_.jpg[/img]
http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/707F+In-line+Filter
A SpeedAire 4ZL51
[img]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21b%2BZSIHqVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg[/img]
Both these have 3/4″ inlets, 3/4″ Outlets, which will make it easy to put mid line of your air system, As well as provide down to 5 micron filtering.
As well as are decently priced.Prior to the ends of your system, you don’t really need a regulator on it, no reason to regulate prior to your hoses.
Since your Sharpe Dryaire is 1/2 inch, you’d be fine putting anything down to 1/2 inch outlets in the system prior to it.
Some 1/2 inch options.
For a Devilbiss
Maybe a Devilbiss 130041 Clean air
[img]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/11KEZcFmLAL._SL500_AA300_.jpg[/img]
1/2 inch inlets, 1/2 inch outlets. 100 CFM flow rating.
5 Micron, and has a pretty nice auto drain on them.
Around $100 US
Manual:
http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/ServiceSupport/Literature.aspx?Command=Core_Download&EntryId=481Speedaire 4ZL42
1/2 inch inlets, 1/2 inch outlets.
140 CFM Flow rating, down to 5 microns again.
[img]http://images.grainger.com/B328_24/images/products/250×250/Standard-Size-Air-Line-Filter-4ZL49_AS01.JPG[/img]
Around $50USMost these listed above are Fiber Filters.
Which work really good at filtering Water and oil. Which makes them really good pre filters.Motor Guard M-300 Ambush
1/2 inch inlets, 1/2 inch outlets
160 CFM flow rating, down to 5 microns
Bronze Filter (Very efficient for water trapping)
[img]http://www.handsontools.com/assets/images/40527868_8720368.jpg[/img]
Typically around $100 USFor my Pre-Filter I’m personally Running a Arrow Pneumatics F354 (I forget the last letter)
1/2 inch inlet, 1/2 inch outlets.
100 CFM Flow Ratings, Large Sintered Bronze Filtering Element. (Looks almost identical to the internals of the Motorguard above)
20 Microns as I recall.
(Like this one but the all black model, (Can’t find a picture of the exact model.)
[img]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31MIfvm6mUL._SL500_AA300_.jpg[/img]It works pretty good at getting most the water out of my air before it gets to my main filters.
I usually drain out nearly a half pint of water for every table spoon I get out of my Sharpe filter.
Ever since I put it in my system, I rarely ever get any water out of my Sharpe F88 any more.Cheap too. They were surplussing them out so I paid like $50 US for mine.
You’ll also find pre-filters called “Coalescing”, Which are designed specifically to remove oil from your air lines. Which are good especially if your compressor has a bit of age on it.
Really when it comes to mid-line filters, Because you need such large fittings and high cfm flow.
You’re probably going to be looking for them more in the Equipment/Industrial store type places.Yes, they do have max CFM (LPM) Flow ratings, and there is pressure drop.
But for spraying it doesn’t really matter too much because you regulate your pressure after the filter.
Meaning your filters are always pressurized to 135psi And you regulate your gun to the much lower 16-45 psi after the filters. So you won’t notice any pressure drop unless you actually are using anywhere near the 135 psi range.So really as long as your filters meets the required CFM (LPM)flow rating of what you intend to use on this setup you really won’t have any issue.
And as far as paint guns go, Very few use anywhere near the typical flow ratings of most wall mounted filter setups.
(Except the ones with fittings smaller than 3/8 of an inch (9.5 mm)Yup, your compressor is adequate for most spraying needs.
Just remember the more your compressor runs, the more heat it produces, thus the more you need to pre-cool your air before it gets to your filters.
Couple dollars of Copper Piping can go a long way for prolonging the life of your expensive filters, and increasing their efficiency.Here’s an example of an air line layout.
http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Air+Piping+LayoutLooking Good.
This is for your guns right?
Your spraying equipment air supply right? Not a breathing source?If so the first thing I notice is that two of those filters the Devilbiss DVFR8, and the FLRCAC-1 are Carbon Filters. Activated Carbon filtering is mostly used to remove VOC’s from the air, Which in turn means these are mostly intended for breathing apparatuses.
Although air is air, and you can still use them as a spraying equipment air supplies, Active carbon filters for these systems are extremely expensive. And using them for for tools, as well as breathing is going to have you burning through the carbon filters like crazy. And it’s going to be a heavy expense on your pocketbook.
When it comes to carbon filters for breathing apparatuses, I suggest dedicating the unit entirely to breathing air. Mainly so you’re not burning through filters, and two so you’re not contaminating your breathing lines.The Sharpe unit on the other hand, is not a carbon Filter, it’s a desiccant filter system (At least the far right long side of it is.)
This is suitable for spray equipment. (Not for breathing)Most filter systems are pretty basic. Most all of them do the same thing, and most all of them are rated by how much they can filter.
I don’t really know what you have now, so I’ll just start from the compressor and work my way out.
For a 3 Stage Spray equipment air supplyIn my opinion the best system you can build is going to be a 3/4″ (Or thicker) Copper or Iron Pipe Air Line System with multiple drops for drain-out’s along the way, at least 40-50 feet in total length to pre cool your compressed air and condense it into water droplets, and get rid of it before it gets to your filter itself.
Stage #1:
Then Start your filter system with a Metal (Typically Brass/Bronze) condensing Filtering element (When air passes through the element, it chills the element, which causes the moisture in the air to condense into water droplets as it passes through it. (Typically around 20-30 microns)
The Combination of the pre cooling with the air lines, and then with the Filter too will get rid of most the moisture alone, and prolong the life of your consumable filters (Stage 2 and Stage 3).
And these filters have virtually no maintenance other than draining.Stage #2:
For Stage two I would go with a Desiccant Filter, Desiccant is little beads (Same things that are in the packets that come in your new shoes) which absorbs Moisture, and Oils from the air. The more Desiccant in the system, the better. Do to the contaminates having to pass through more filtration. (Desiccant typically filters down to around 2 microns. But is entirely dependent on how much desiccant is used, and how fast the air is passing through it, some desiccant systems alone can reach below a micron, but use huge amounts of beads.)
Desiccant is a consumable, thus you want to pre filter as much as possible before you get to it to prolong its life.Stage #3:
Lastly in a three stage system, I would go with a so called “Toilet Paper Filter” Like a Motor Guard M60. These paper filters offer some of the lowest micron filtering for the buck, They filter everything from fluids, to solids down to 0.01 Micron.If I wanted to do a 4 stage system, I would put a Fiber Filter (Which filter around 5 microns) before the Desiccant to even further prolong the life of the filters after it. Or if you’re willing to spend the money you could also put a Compressed air Refrigerant Dryer before any of the filters.
The next filter in line as far as efficiency goes is the more expensive Carbon Filters. But like I said, you shouldn’t need that kind of additional filtration for anything less than breathing. And thus I would only use carbon filters dedicated entirely for breathing air supply. But if you want to use one for your spray guns, All the power to ya’.
Basically the intent of these systems is to step your filters down, while increasing filtration efficiency along the way.
Each one works by prolonging the life of the next more efficient filter in line. Stage 1 is there to take the guff of the work, increasing the life of the more expensive desiccant beads in Stage 2. The Desiccant filter works by pre filtering everything for the more efficient Paper filter thus prolonging the more expensive paper filters lifespan.
And in the end, you’ll have a system which will remove down to 0.01 Microns.
Of course you can always put a paper bulb filter, or a desiccant filter at the end of your hose to trap any contaminants which will be in your hoses. I find as long as I keep my hoses dedicated for their specific job, I don’t have an issue with it though.
This is how most filter systems on the market work. (Though most end in desiccant and don’t have paper filters at the end, simply because Motor guard has so heavily patented the paper filter over the decades that they can’t produce them cheaply.)
Most 3 stage filters you see will have Metal elements, Fiber Elements, Desiccant Filters on them.
Some like the Devilbiss QC3 have these three filters built into a single unit.
But do to doing so much in it’s small size. The unit will burn through consumables quickly, as well as reduce the cubic feet of air which can travel through the unit in a given time.Mainly, just decide what your requirements are as far as CFM, what you plan to operate with it, and work from there.
You can buy a pre-assembled unit, or you can assemble one yourself.
Mainly going to depend on how much time and money you want to put in it.They priced much more than the ol’ solvent ones?
I guess we’ll have to wait and see how they work out.
Dancing around all that with a hose, now that’s an art.
Looking Good Ryan, I’ve heard from a few people that it sprays a lot like the first gens.
Wonder if they decided to re-work the early design, or if it’s spraying similarities are just coincidence.:welc
Looks good.
It looks like PP (Polypropylene) so being a thermoplastic welding would have been a stronger repair. (Because the part can physically be bonded to itself. and because you can melt stainless mesh into it for further reinforcement, thus you can make a stronger repair then the base plastic had itself.But the adhesive way definitely is adequate, although when you look at the investment of a welder compared to the cost of the expensive ass adhesives and applicators it can pay for itself over time. (I know my 3m gun cost me nearly a bill, and my adhesives run in the 30-60 dollar range. Which in the end is nearly the cost of a welder.)
Only thing I would note because I can’t really tell from your pictures is that when you’re doing a plastic repair, especially when doing a bonding repair, always cut a bowl groove into the damage area simply because you’re relying on the strength of the bonding material to hold it together, (as much as possible is generally better, And taking a standard high speed and cutting a groove into it then hitting it with some 60-80 grit is a pretty quick thing to do.)
Also, always do your best to round your sharp edges, not rounding creates high stress points during flexing, expanding and contracting. And can lead to tears, but more commonly can lead to ghosting. Rounding and spreading your stress points out is always the way to go.
Your mom has got rust on her bottom rear and you don’t see us pointing that out :chair
What the hell hit it?