richard elliott
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Hey, and welcome ill be very interested in seeing and hearing how you get on with the vw, I love the mark 2’s 🙂
Is that the acid etch #8 in the red tin, plus I was looking at the 3:1 filler primer 🙂
[quote=”thekansaskid” post=29288]Again thanks. I just recently tried using the 870 reducer with 2021 and the clear actually laid down a hell of a lot better than with the 885. i turned the booth down to 75 tho. as for ur bake recomendations….. i have been baking my jobs for 50 min. is this way too long. 140 at 50 min. i did buy a sata nr2000 1.4 to apply sealer. just used it on a roof of a suzuki sx4 and the results where awesome. aperently switching to a bigger needle for sealer really helped. no blotchness no tiger strip no mottling. and it was a silver. but the specs were there and there are a lot. and im constantly keeping toners mixed up. What im curious of is those specs look aweful big to make it through a pps strainer. but its def in the silvers. becuase i dont have that problem on any other color. and my last and final question…. first of all i cant express how much gratitude i have to your help! so hear goes. prepping a silver car. I spend what i think is adiquite time prepping them. A lot of times i have my helper prepping and he usually does a good job. but on every silver car he does, and i cant see this until i clear, is 320 grit scratches. what i have taught him to do is dry block with durablocks. make sure the bodymans shit body work is pinhole free and block to make sure there are no dents remaining…. (lots of hail jobs). i have him do this with 320. i then have him da over the blocked areas with 500 grit. but on everysilver car i do. if i look hard enough i can find the 320 marks. and even if there are 320 scratches…. shouldnt the das sealers fill these scratches. When i started painting i wet sanded all the primer with 400 grit and a paint stick. do i need to go back to the basics and wet sand everything from now on? well silvers anyways? i am going to ppg training next tuesday in kansas city so hopefully i wont be writing to many more novels on here…. lol I also used that nr2000 for base on a 2011 infiniti and was very impressed with the results. i am really rethinking my 1.3 guns. It surprises me that in my mind the nr2000 out performs my 3000 hvlp by quite a bit. but again maybe its the bigger needle?[/quote]
Hey mate it seems that I’m still the only one who still wet flats, in my eyes hitting it with a da might be quicker but it doesn’t give you the same finish as a wet flat, for a silver car is wet flat the primer with 800 and with the rest of the panel wet flat with 1000 the get rid of the orange peel or bad paint finish from an out repair. If its not to bad then scotch. I have noticed in the past doing blends on silver or pearls, ull ave a smooth finish where the primer repair is then a scotch paint some times but not always the paint will lay different between them. With wet flat I find there’s less chance of rubbing through or losing the right lines lol yeh it is messy and it does take longer but if you clean as you go I don’t see the problem .
I do spent a lot of time fixing repairs in which cars have been repaired with waterbourne an problems pop up weeks later. Know with me being still being on solvent, water base makes my job hell if a garage has done a ( quick Friday f#ck it job) ha ha . Dies any one else still use solvent and still wet flat
[quote=”JackMarshall” post=29260]Yep, I use a Devilbiss Gti Pro 1.3/1.4 for base with a T1 aircap and its spot on.
Not sure if the aircaps are named different in different countries.[/quote]
If I remember rightly the t2 is for the fast flow which lays the material down with a ( original) finish lol and the t1 give a nice show room glass finish.if you use them for clear like I do, I’ve never used the t1 for color which is interesting as I use iwata w400 for color wonder how they would compare :lol1
I’ve got the mini jet ad never had any problems. :rock
Hey I use devilbiss pro with 1.3 and I love it 🙂 even better with my new pro lite , u can’t go wrong with them
Lets just hope I do half a decent job on the chopper ha ha, yeh I’ve found after care for the satin paint. I under stand what ding is saying and by the look of it that’s how it’s goin to go 🙂
Yeh I know wot you mean. I just like the idea of sending my work out unfinished when it can be done to a higher standard, I’ve looked into it and getting tech sheets for a couple of products from swissvax, on sealants, cleaner spray and waxes, with it bein on a custom build I don’t want my work letting the project down ha ha . 🙂 I have done satin work before but only for myself which is different to getting paid for it 🙂 it would be so much easier if it went gloss 😛
[quote=”ding” post=29222]Sorry, but there no way to polish a matte finish with out giving it a shine. what you get out of the gun is what you get[/quote]
Ok I find this a bit odd as the new fiat 500 line are in matts and satins which are are a factory finish which in my eyes you have to get rid of the defects. I know swissvax do sealants and detailing spray
hey mate they look great, its little details like this which ready makes a car stand out for the right reasons :woohoo:
hey :welc :cheer:
Hey mate welcome hope you find what your looking for. 🙂
Hey Ben. I use the g3 and g6 which are both great, I’ve also got the farecla g3 rage in the black bottles. Have you tried the farecla super gloss yellow wax ;), what’s this ultra is a new formula to replace the yellow bottle which is the liquid compound g3
Hey I think if all depends on how the shop operates. In our shop our boss has brought he basics for us painters to use. But the rule at our shop is is you break it, you replace it ha ha 🙂 so over the years I’ve brought all my tools plus safety equipment. I would say if your looking to get a new prep/painter that they should get the main tools the need. 🙂 having people use my tools and break or lose them.
First job after the holidays. Doing the norm blah blah blah lol
Also just some playing for a horse box
