ryan brown
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It could be numerous things. It would be best to just allow the shop to fix it or take it to another shop you are comfortable with. If it doesn’t buff you will be into the door, no matter if you like it or not.
I see no reason anyone would have sealed the whole fender and based it, but I can see if they cut through and just colored the whole thing.
Bad buff job is possible. It would be the easiest fix, not sure if that is going to be it. That would be the first thing I tried.
Could also be in the clear. Clear could have been close to out of pot-life when it was sprayed.
Fact of the matter is you need to decide whether you can live with it or not. If not let someone qualified fix it however they need to and you will be happier. If you go in there and tell them they cant touch the door you will be more likely to be unhappy again. If you don’t feel comfortable taking it back to the previous shop then find another that you are comfortable with, tell them what you want and let them do their job, you will be happier in the end.
I know if the job came in to me I would first buff it, if that didn’t work the only choice I would give would be to de-trim door and fender. Basecoat over fender and door area, blend, and clearcoat both panels. If they use a quality material the paint will be just as good or better than what came on the car.
Using a candy is preferred by some because it will let more light through when your brake light lights up. Candy is a dye where a basecoat is carbon black pigment. One is more opaque than the other.
I prefer P180 to start my colorsanding
Basecoat start with roof and move down and just work your way around.
Sealer and Clear- roof rails and roof, 1st quarter panel, 2nd quarter panel, decklid, doors on same side as 1st quarter, 2nd set of doors, fender on same side as 1st quarter, second fender, hood last. Make sure to band the edges of flat panels and stay within banding to keep down overspray on other panels especially the roof.
[quote=”ScottB” post=26836][quote=”Jayson M” post=26834][quote=”smooth” post=26830]Be carefull, the stuff does like to pop very easily as is…[/quote]
I have never had it pop on me either :unsure:
What other products did he suggest?Hopefully not utech 4.0 or proair…[/quote]U-TECH MS, Keystone Euro amd Keystone Overall. He mentioned ProAir but I was told by someone it would not suit my needs. I have no experience with Keystone products. He did say his Euro would not lock up as fast as AG and also said the Overall was good. Have not researched the two yet. Supposed to come next week so I can try a couple products.[/quote]
Does your Sikkens rep work for LKQ by chance?
I’m guessing that since your doing a complete on a 68 camaro you are wanting it to look pretty nice after the flow coat? Why not stick to the 2021 if you have experience spraying it? My first choice of clear for a nice job wouldn’t have a Keystone label on it.
What are your spraying conditions? Is there a certain cost you are trying to stay at for the product?
[quote=”Red Baron” post=26733]R1,
Switch to Universal LV, you’ll be much happier.
I NEVER add hardener to AWMM or LWB, I see no need.[/quote]
x2
I could not agree with this any more.
I agree with Baron. If you leave residue it can fisheye, but you can see the residue after it’s wiped.
I would have a hard time painting something without using Autoclean.
Ben,
If you can get the autoclean 1.28 up there use it. I like it more than glass cleaner.
Underpaid,
I would be curious to know why the other painter thinks that. It is completely fine to use as a final wipe. I prefer it for that purpose compared to the standard Autoclean.
What does the other painter use in place of it?
[quote=”Ben” post=26595]No idea, never used it. We use the M600…[/quote]
What do you use for a waterborne cleaner?
I use it everyday without issue. If you were to not dry the autoclean off the panel completely and left some residue there could be an issue.
Do you use the standard Autoclean or the 1.28?
10 mils for what? Did you strip it and start from the bottom up? did you just repaint over OEM paint? Where is it peeling at? Is the clear not sticking, is everything you put on delaming?
You might have to give a bit more info than that.
Try slowing it down and see if the problem persists.
Here is the Prevost
http://www.prevostusa.com/proddetail.php?prod=OSTO3835&PHPSESSID=1fb48f3e3dc78d4932b55107d047e051Here is the Eaton. the part number is H20106. It is under the weatherhead name. It takes specific hose fittings that do not get crimped on. They work really well and have never seen one leak.
http://www.jhf.com/catalog_v6/1259.pdf
http://www.qualitysurplus.com/business-industrial/hydraulic-hose/50-weatherhead-h20106-3-8-hydraulic-hose-new.htmlI like Prevost or Eaton push lock hoses.