ryan brown
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I am jealous of you right now, she looks like a real peach to work on! :sick:
[quote=”jim c” post=22646]he obviously leaves the boat in the water full time so dont paint below the waterline. just from the red up. below the waterline should be gelcoat.[/quote]
It didn’t look like the boat had ever seen the water to me!
I have used the Euro clear. It seemed to hold a good gloss but it didn’t impress me a whole lot over other clears. The clear seemed too fast to be used in a downdraft in warm weather. In a garage I bet it would perform better. To be honest it kinda reminded me of an easier to run Lesonal Pro-Air clear. A little thinner spraying maybe.
As for epoxy I have never used SPI but I agree with Ben, Dupont makes a really nice epoxy. It is the only product I really miss of theirs!
Looks great 123. I have always liked the Carrado’s.
How do your balls feel Ding, cause you had the shit kicked out of them :rofl
[quote=”ding” post=22409][quote=”smooth” post=22407]looks like a good job except for the blend on the pillar, i would like to see it a couple of years time.[/quote]
Ya you’re right. i should have dropped the headliner, took the roof rack off, took the taillight out, dropped the corner of the rear cover and cleared the entire roof rail and rt 1/4 :blush:[/quote]You could have blended the front cover for color match :p
I dont see enough of a difference in dust, material or time savings from say 320 to 400-500. But I see what direction you were heading with your question. I wasn’t sure if it was for your reasons listed or if you thought it would bite better.
To give you another side to your answer, you retain more gloss sealing over a P400 scratch vs a P320 scratch. Same with basecoat but with finer grits. Once the finish is cured it will pull tight around the edges and sink into scratches. This can cause some loss of gloss if the sand scratches under are too deep.
Why do you want to go coarser?
If you think it will adhere better it won’t.
I have indoor/outdoor carpet in mine. Works great, just run a vacuum over it in the mornings. It is a couple years old and needs replacing now because the overspray is getting a little much but it has held up very well.
Devilbiss has a dust control spray for booth floors that looks pretty nice.
Spies Hecker actually recommends the same wet bed as Jayson is describing. The only difference is they recommend 300% reduction. Both ways work very good though.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=22063]Or too small of a fluid tip,causing you to go slower so you can get a good film build causing build up at the edges.I say put in a size bigger fluid tip and see what happens.I had that problem with Sikkens HS plus and a 1.3 in an rp,went to a 1.4 and never happened again.You could also up your air pressure to improve atomization vs.choking your fluid.Also to fast of a clear can cause the same thing,you have to hose it on to keep it wet,just my 2cents ;)[/quote]
This is exactly what I would do also. Get a nice wet coat on instead of having to hammer a coat out of a smaller tip and having it build up on the edges. Let the reducer do the work and don’t fight the paint as much.
Look on the fluid nozzle, it will be stamped where the wrench goes to loosen it. I have only used the LS400 and found it to be rather slow.
We use Dupont sontara blue towels for in the booth and sontara white towels for in the shop
Good to know
I have used the EC700 and it kinda sucks. I used a 3000RP 1.2 with it and it still sucked. At best it was a factory peel matching clear. It either wanted to look dry and meely after baking or it was running. It took forever to harden up also. Even after baking it wasnt hard. I have not talked to anyone either that likes it at all. You can still use 2002 and 2021 over EHP. I would stick with one of those two clears if it was me. I have sprayed a ton of different PPG clears and those seem to work the best.