ryan brown
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
It’s impossible to have a 2 stage white pearl. Any pearl or mica added to white gets covered by the white toner and doesn’t show. You can add metallic to white and it just turns it gray.
Usually on reds and blue 3 stages they are made a tri coat for appearance and coverage reasons. They wil be more deep and brilliant when sprayed like a candy would.
If the base is marbeling or looks funny a day later the base wasn’t fully dehydrated. How long are you waiting from base to clear? Do you use any handheld driers? Whats the humidity like where your at?
I have heard of splashing but never had it happen to me. Im not much help here.
Honestly for clear I almost always used Spies clears with Cromax. They work better and look better. They were actually cheaper also.
[quote=”Andy T” post=21116]Cheers Nick.
I didn’t really get along with that type though, but was really impressed by the flat type shown above. It didn’t look like it would do anything, but it got us out of a few sticky situations! The guy also had some miniature blocks from Meguiars. They looked like tiny pumice stones and were great at sanding out the final traces of a run, but I haven’t managed to source any of those either.
Good job I don’t get too many runs! (my finish is usually too dry for that :rofl )[/quote]
http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+SAND+1000
Is this what your referring to Andy?
I never get runs either :whistle:
That looks pretty cool Paintpot. Not sure if we can get them in the states. Some Festool stuff is hard to come by here.
The Tekna works better for me than the Supernova and the Sata HC. Some things that work well for me are to reduce tough colors no less than 35% and usually around 40% if it’s warmer. I will go higher if needed. First coat goes on wet. Don’t just stop the color either. Make sure to pull the gun away and not leave a abrupt stopping point. Second coat goes on around 75% of the first. I will flick my wrist without triggering off the gun for my blend. I will put a 3rd maybe 40% wet coat on before my control coat if the color has any mottle in it. It doesn’t take much paint. Then for my control coat I will drop my gun pressure to 18-19 psi and back up and give it a nice even coat. Not wet but not dry. Think of a peppered look.
I fought mottle on tough colors for awhile with the Sata HC. Steve Baran recommended the Tekna to me and gave me these pointers and honestly I have almost no trouble anymore.
The carpet is glued down. When it needs replaced you just have to pull it up and put more glue down.
I only swept and vacuumed the floor before putting the glue down. I left the built up overspray on it, that way if I pulled it up the glue should come off easier.
Also keep checking on craigslist for a cheap used carpet extractor. They work great for a real good cleaning of the carpet once a month or so. Only takes about 20 minutes. Also you will be shocked when you vacuum it how much it will pull out of the carpet just after a day or two.
I demoed this system and the pieces the 3m rep put on fell off also. Granted the booth walls had a coating on them and weren’t perfectly clean. The theory sounds great, I have been thinking of giving it a go myself. It takes half a day for me to clean my booth and coat it.
Btw, the carpet on the floor works way better than the paper. :p Jim, don’t worry about the seam in the carpet the glue will hold it down fine. Mine is seamed down the middle and has not lofted up anywhere, and I’m not gentle on it at all. In fact mine is just now getting to the point where an area in the front of the booth could used replaced as its a bit crusty. And I paint every car at that end.
There isn’t a whole lot to read from. Your best bet would be to attend a color matching course through your paint company.
Some quick advice would be to try and not use the kill color method. It has it’s uses but overall doesn’t work most of the time. It’s always better to remix and leave out the color there is too much of than to kill.
Also if your picking a variant to tint I always go for the one that has a close match in metallic size and brilliance. I would rather pick one that is too yellow or blue and just leave out some of the culprit toner.
Get a toner wall chart also. It will tell you what the toner looks like mixed with a metallic, and either black or white. It will help when tinting to figure out what it will do and the strength of it.
Another tip, it is usually quicker and cheaper to just eat the blend and get the job done. I can knock down and tape of a fender in no time, if I have to adjust the color more than once or twice I have already lost money compared to blending.
Hey Paul, welcome! I’m on KKL too with the same name.
SwissVax Opaque is made for Matt finishes.
I should add I would try to mix some toner in with your black and also try adding pearl to a clear binder and treating it like a 3 stage and see which color you like better
If your wanting a red pearl, your best bet will be a xyrillac pearl. If you add too much of a regular red pearl it will turn purple. Even with the zyrillac it will still turn purple but it will stand the best chance of showing through. Best bet would be to get a little bit of toner and make a few sprayouts.
The more storage the better, sounds like a good plan.
Also another easy option would be to source a section of copper coil and solder some ends on it. Drop it in a bucket of ice and run your air through it to cool it. Getting a bag of ice before you spray might get old, but if only using it occasionally it might not be bad. Plus if you use the bucket of ice you have a place to keep your beer close and cold while you paint! :cheers
You would make most bodymen blush with that kind of primer job :cheers
I have never used the HPC15 or 21. A good friend of mine used it quite a bit and said it is a finicky clear. He wasn’t a fan. I am not familiar with any of the Sherwin low VOC clears, but 930 was a nice faster drying clear.
I wouldn’t have high hopes for the EC700. I used some and found it to be quite disappointing. Dturcotte said he had the best luck over reducing it, but it air dried painfully slow for him. I know after baking it was still really soft for me. And I baked it with quads running.