ryan brown
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
[quote=”viperman829″ post=20136]got the color,added yellow gold.dont know how it happened or why it made the color grayer but we got it.thanks again for all the imput[/quote]
Yellow/gold will kill the blue/violet in the color. When you kill colors it usually causes the color to get muddy and that is where the gray came from. Good job, it takes some skill to nail a color! :rock
I found it in Nason low voc solvent base, which you should have there. Dupont has it in their solvent but not available in Canada. Not sure how much I would want to use nason low voc solvent but its available.
I’m not seeing much in Sikkens Dillon. I have a colormap number, but even under that the options are very limited as to what can be mixed in water. Example the one formula that crosses has a zyrillac pearl in it. Im not thinking they used that in the 60’s :blink:
[quote=”Papipab” post=20117]how does the tekna compare to the sata[/quote]
Depends on the material being sprayed. For waterborne basecoat I think the Tekna works better than a Sata. For clear the Sata would be the winner every day. Not saying the Tekna cant do a good job with clear, the Sata just does a better job.
I use a Tekna with a 7E7 for Autowave right now. I am around 16-22 psi, rarely 16 though. Works great. I have used it for clear but find it works better with a 1.3 at around 27-30 psi for Superior. It is slower for clear than a RP.
I’m with Jayson, I’m not sure what you mean by 45 psi at the gun and 19 to 22? One sound low and the other sounds really high.
If it is too blue, remix and leave out some of the blue toner. You will create more damage adding silver too it rather than leaving out some of the color when mixing.
If it needs to be grayer, look at the flop control toner. You will have to mud it up a little with possible black or white or a dirty toner in the mix.
Thats a great looking job! :cheers
U-tech is a pretty high solids product, so it can be a little more difficult to spray if your used to lower solids products. I can’t really answer if the sata would be better for you or not. I like both guns, the Sata more so, but the W400 is a nice gun. You already have the Iwata, so if money is tight I would convert your LPH. One advantage to the Iwata is you will be dealing with considerably less overspray than the RP. In a garage setting this is a good thing. Also you have to move at a good pace with a RP, so if you are not real comfortable painting, moving at a slower pace is a good thing.
The LPH is painfully slow IMO. It works well for MS clears and basecoats when paired with the correct aircap. If I was shooting SS with an Iwata I would want at least a 1.4 and perferably a compliant model like the W400lv. If you plan on using it for an all over you might want to think about a new nozzle for yours. The good news is if you wanted to covert yours to a W400lv with a 1.4 all you would need is a nozzle and aircap. The needle and gun bodies are identical. In the states a needle and aircap would run a little over $200.
Also try warming up the paint next time you spray. SS does well when it isn’t cold.
I agree with Andy. Having the heat cut off midway through would create more issues than having no heat at all from the beginning. The only real solution is to get the burner fixed.
Thanks Chuck, that would be really cool. I have been keen on trying Debeer since Andy T talked it up.
[quote=”jim c” post=20002]since you have sikkens in your area, try the antistatic cleaner. its an alcohol based final wipe. you can sub for your waterborne stuff. its extremely fast, super strong and flashes completely. it basically does what a solvent and waterbased cleaner does all in one. you cant wipe basecoat itself down with it though…not that you should need to. the stuff is actually made by henkel and akzo relabels it. rm has it as well. same stuff but relabeled and called 903.[/quote]
I think henkel is who makes the etch wipes and pen Akzo has also. The antistatic works very good, but you have to be careful as it is some really strong shit. If you have cut throughs it can swell the undercoats some. It will also eat off some factory primers on bumpers and such.
I always use the Dupont Sontara wipes. They do a good job of getting the cleaner off the panel while not linting very much. I also always wipe with one rag and dry with another. I dont spray the cleaner onto the panel. Sprayway glass cleaner works well right before paint also.
If your getting a couple fisheyes here and there it may be the air.
Do you have a jobber out there who is carrying Debeer? I have been interested in trying some but no jobber in Louisville.
I actually had to work today
Looks like it came out real nice! What kind of gun did you shoot it with?
I always loved Spies single stage or direct gloss, not sure what you all across the pond call it.