ryan brown
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I am at work so I cant write a thesis right now but here are a few things for starters.
Your compressor is more than likely too small for an all over. Is it 2-stage? What HP is the motor?
A Starting line gun is mediocre at best. Don’t expect perfect results with inferior tools. Not saying that gun can’t put out a nice paint job, but it would need to be in the hands of a somewhat experienced painter.
A cheaper water seperator will work but the biggest thing you have to watch for when running too small a compressor is CAH (compressed air humidity). The only solutions are more time to let it cool and condense (ie more tank storage and more piping) You ideally need at least 50 feet of pipe in between your water trap and compressor. the more the better. A dessicant filter would be nice also.
I hate gun mounted filters. They rob valuable air volume and do a so so job of actually filtering.
3/8 hose is fine. You need high flow couplers though. Your air line will only flow as much volume as your weakest link. If you have a 1/2″ hose but the air still passes through a 1/8″ hole the 1/2″ hose isnt really helping.
I would not run the hose directly off the compressor. You need pipe. I don’t like a 50ft hose either. I like to keep it as short as possible. I use a 35ft hose.
Looking good Ding!
I use one and absolutely love it. I dont thnk I will ever paint without it again. Had a Devilbiss unit and it isn’t near as nice.
For a CO monitor I have their small personal one that mounts inside the hood and it works very well also.
I adjust my fan in some and do spray below 29 psi for a lot of things. Any medium solids product I will spray around 25-28 psi. The smaller the fan the less pressure you will need. I get the best results when I spray close to the panel for most products.
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=17961]well i just have ta say the sata rp 1.3 is the choice for the pros;) 😉 i dont care what the other guys on this site say:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]
Well being your the only real pro on the site I guess we can lock this thread and call it done. :whistle:
😛
Cool pics Andy! There is a chain here in town that does the same as your place. it still amazes me how fast you can get them done.
How do you typically prep them for paint?
Off topic, is the yellow Audi in your avatar your car??
[quote=”Ben” post=17896][quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=17895]Is there a special technique you use to get that much orange peel in the Liberty or is it just natural talent? 😆
[/quote]
…its way smoother than the OEM Chrysler clear :whistle:[/quote]I know, it was a joke
Is there a special technique you use to get that much orange peel in the Liberty or is it just natural talent? 😆
Looks good Ding! Looks like the Nexa clear didnt die at all on ya in your booth. :cheers
You lucky bastard, that’s test material! It isn’t out yet. I have heard about it though.
[quote=”jim c” post=17868]no man, if you guys are using the 3:2:1 stuff we are talking about 2 different clears but they are both the superior 250. it says superior 250 right on the label. hardener has a red cap clear has a blue. i am guessing color coded for the mixing unit. maybe they simply are reformulating it in a easier ratio to work in the machine and maybe they made it compatiable with solvent or water, i am just guessing their reasons, who knows really. the stuff i have here i was told is their new reformulated version. hell, for all i know its not even released yet. maybe he chose me as a gunnea pig!:whistle: next time you guys talk to your sikkens rep ask if they know anything about it. when you guys eventually see this stuff, after this thread i would be interested in seeing how you guys like new vs old and what the differences are. maybe i’ll see if i can get jeff on his cell tomorrow and get the full scoop. i am really not too familiar with any akzo products other than what he drops off to me once in a while to try out so the info i can offer is a bit limited.[/quote]
I know they are coming out with 250 for the pc machine so what you have is probably test material. Pretty cool.
Jim, are you using this
[url=http://www.globalsafetynet.com/akzonobel/pdfs/akzo_356_english.pdf]Autoclear PC[/url]
If so this isn’t Superior 250. I have heard it is a very nice clear though. Superior 250 will be made for the PC unit but I don’t think they have it now. I have seen the PC unit in person and it is a very cool idea. They are planning on leasing them to shops for $1.
Superior will delam over solvent. My rep said he has seen it.
[quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=17808][quote]Do not make the bodyfiller more then an 1/8[/quote]
I am all ears and interested
what happens after 1/8…. 3/16 or 1/4 what will will/could happen on repairs of this depth[/quote]
nothing 😉
I would venture to say it is almost impossible to repair a stretched panel without going over 1/8 somewhere.
:welc Good to have you here.
I completely agree with you Nick. I dont like the idea of putting a finishing glaze on very thick but I have seen mud built up quite a bit and not fail. It would likely be impossible to repair anything more than a ding if it couldn’t be more than 1/8″. There is a time and a place for everything.
Looks good to me