ryan brown
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[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=17692]Thanks Ryan, I have been having better luck with it. I started leaving the reducer out of it. When i first started my new job the other painter said they always reduce it with fast HP reducer and they even put accelerator in it. I found out real quick that it wont work for me that way. I somtimes mix it 50-50 slow and fast. I would like to spray it with the tekna or the w400lv. I have used my cvi to spray it but get better results with my lph400.[/quote]
I never reduce it. Its thin as it is. I think it sprays fine out of the LPH. Only issue is the speed. If doing a bigger job, its hard to get around it before the clear flashes.
Looks good Nick! I have heard of a lot of guys in the UK that all say that same Lesonal clear is very nice. I think for the price Lesonal is the best deal here in the states. It’s every bit as good as PPG or Dupont if not better. And it’s cheaper. A very under rated product over here, it amazes me more people do not use it.
Not my favorite color but I bet it will look good once all done. Sometimes those old colors look nice once sprayed with newer paint. Seems the older colors in waterborne look cleaner.
Are you striping it Jayson? If you do stripe it do you ever flat and reclear them?
Your booth doesn’t seem to lack lighting!
Oops, I didnt read close enough Andy.
Cool pics Jayson. Looks good!
Is that the yellow Norton tape you were talking about or is it 3M?
I have to say I agree with you on the new foam tape from 3M Andy. I don’t like the older version much at all. I use the E-Z Edger for most of my taping but have just recently tried some of the new foam tape and have to say it is leaps and bounds better than the old. It doesn’t leave the nasty edge the old did.
Do you have to do much panel painting on jobs Andy or do you try to blend everything? Debeer over here is quite pricey compared to the UK. How do you feel it stacks up compared to Nexa and Lechler?
After a few years of marriage you learn to answer their questions and act interested while not actually listening! :whistle:
The LS400 over here is too slow for the clear I use. It’s impossible to get a WS400 to try over here.
With all that painting you need to sit back and enjoy a few too many beers! :cheers I bet you were busier than a one legged man in an *** kicking contest.
Good god Andy, that’s a lot of cars. I don’t think I have ever even done half of that. That’s amazing!
Have you ever got a chance to try the WS400 basecoat version? I got a chance to use the LS400 with Sikkens base and have to say it did a great job with it.
She probably thinks your on the computer watching your burnt DVD copy of Brokeback Mountain Bondo sent you! :p
My wife does the same thing. I think it’s there job in life to annoy their husbands.
For bodywork I use a 5/16″ d/a. For prep I use a 3/16″. If only buying one go for the 3/16. A 3/32 is for fine finishing. They are almost useless they are so slow. I have two of them and they collect dust. I only really use them for sanding blend panels on a car if it had really thin clear and I was worried about buring through an edge.
Damn that 1/4 setting would probably get caught on one of my runs before it ever found the filler :rofl
[quote=”sined240″ post=17623]make sure to make a video when you paint, would love to see what these guys would say about that…:whistle:[/quote]
be careful what you ask for. The last one he made was a little racy. It involved him and Timbo on a camping trip in the mountains! :blink:
😛
what stone said.
repair your areas needed. prime with urethane primer. sand with P400. seal any burn throughs with urethane sealer. let flash for 30 minutes. spray base and clear.
get your scratches to P180 -p240 before prime. any surrounding areas outside of your repairs that will have primer sprayed on them sand with P320.
It would be a major beneft for you to determine what brand of product your going to use and what products themselves and read the TDS sheets for them very closely. all your answers will be in there.
Why are you wanting to prime the car? Only prime the areas you have to fix (rock chips, dent, scratches)
I would not finish with P80 before primer unless you want a ton of sand scratches to shrink back. finish your repair work with P180 to P240 before prime.