ryan brown
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[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=17607]Hey Ryan, what hardner are you using and are you reducing at all?[/quote]
That was slow hardener as I was painting a doghouse and bumper. Inside our booth there is too much airflow to use anything much faster. I never reduce it.
You kinda have to hammer Pro Air. I’m not sure I have ever ran it.
Great pics dag! Looks like it came out good. Nothing like fresh black paint
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=17594]ya but i didnt have any dead cats around so i will pull the lights but not the cover i know its dirty but it makes sure ya dont have any suprizes in the end not 2 hard ta mask a cover off an sucks when they dont fit :p :p :p :p :p ive got enuff drama in this buiss ta abuse myself an yes we are gonna detrim the door still gotta fix a ding in it;)[/quote]
Aren’t you worried about the paint on the bumper you painted peeling if you tape to it? :p
Everybody on the site needs to take notes on this post. This is how a real pro gets it done. :rofl
Hell Bondo, I wouldn’t tint that. Blend it and send it. Its white, put it outside and it will look great.
[quote=”painter123″ post=17588]wow. that is really nice.. did u use the 1.2 tip for the clear?[/quote]
1.4 wide open. Pro air out of a 1.2 would be damn near impossible. You can hammer that shit with a 1.4 and it won’t move.
I dont think Mo uses Lesonal. It is a Akzo brand.
Me personally I would never use a grey sealer on a white car unless it was a very very light grey. Why fight coverage and add additional material costs. A few drops of black to it like Mocoke said would be fine. I will add a few drops of yellow and black to mine just to improve coverage a little as white sealer usually has limited opacity over dark colors.
When the drawer is pulled out can you see a black plastic piece in the slide?
what are you painting?
Ah, the joys of painting!
I have to go with jayson on this one. Sprayouts should be sealed the same color that you are doing the car. How many coats to coverage doesn’t mean that much. I have seen silvers cover a sprayout but still be a little lighter than the sealed counterpart. There is such a thing as getting percieved coverage without reaching the correct color value yet. Your spray out should mimic exactly what your doing on the car.
[quote=”bloverby” post=17452]Spread some metal glaze over the sag then block w/320-800 until the glaze and sag are gone then progress up to 1500-2000 and buff.[/quote]
This works very good! 😉
Start with P400 on a piece of a paintstick. Move to 800 than 1200. To be honest I do almost any run or sag this way and never burn through. The 400 will flatten it quick then just refine your scratches. Using too light of a grit will sand the surrounding paint more than needed without leveling the run. If the run isn’t real bad you can start with 600 or 800.
It’s kinda like sanding your first coat of filler and trying to shape it with 220 rather than 80. It will sand it but you will have a hell of a time getting it flat and straight.
I just spray mine thick and curdled. Bondo(the real pro on the site) taught me how to adjust the gun to compensate. 😆
My mixing room stays warm enough but at other shops I would fill up a bucket of hot water and set the clear and hardener in there for 10 minutes and it would do the trick. Crock pot is a good idea though. They also make rubber heating pads that I bet would work good. Can’t remember where I saw them at though.
Looks sharp Mo, good job! :cheers