ryan brown
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I have never used Romex for an application like that either. I always used something like this
[url=http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Wire-Cable-Electrical-Wiring-Armored-Cable/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg1Zbmcq/R-100142069/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053]this[/url]
or use flexible conduit and run single wires inside.
You will want some type of conduit on the wire. If something was to get into it at 220 volts it could be a disaster.
http://www.refinishnetwork.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=36&id=2321&Itemid=285
that is what the ez-edger does ben. Here is a post I made a while ago about how to do it by hand
Hey doc, usually compressors are usually hard-wired into a small circut breaker box with a shutoff on them. Use flexible conduit from compressor to the wall mounted box.
[url=http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100674081&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&MERCH=REC-_-product-1-_-100576894-_-100674081-_-N&locStoreNum=159&marketID=1]similar to this[/url]
You can buy versions that are fused also
Also what gauge wire are you using and what amp is the comp rated for??
Also if you want to give your compressor more life and keep it from running as much, turn down the pressure switch on it. Set it to cut off around 80-100 psi.
Also box in that damn pvc or ditch it all together, a piece of shrapnel isn’t worth it man. If your worried about the epa, you would hate OSHA if they saw that.
I would say you turn out more than the average painter does.
Ya post up some tips, I’m sure everybody would be interested including myself.
Just tinting the windows would be a hell of a lot faster and cheaper. I see no advantage to spraying the windows. Spraying a black kandy over glass would also show every flaw in your spray technique.
Also I would be worried about visibility.
I felt the same as Jayson about DC92. I used some years back and it wasn’t my favorite. It looked great but as stated once the booth started baking if you had a area that was a little too heavy it would take off. I was quite a bit younger when I used it so who knows I could have just been hammering the crap out of them :whistle:
Good to hear your having luck with it Rodney!
Sounds like your kicking *** there. If your hustling you are about right. I paint 2-4 on avg a day. If I am doing bumpers or parts off the car I would say 6 wouldn’t be bad. Some days it seem 2 is a chore. Really depends on the job. I have worked at shops where I ran two booths and all I did was mix paint, wipe down and spray. I could push 12 if I had to. Things had to be clicking though.
How are you masking jambs if you dont use paper?
Probably. It looks as if they changed the spray pattern on them. From a cigar shaped to more of a line with the whole pattern having even coverage.
But if what you have is giving you the results you want stay with it.
Damn, I really like that. If you don’t mind me asking what does that thing go for?
I dont think so either. Got to remember in crash painting 1 car may just be a bumper or fender and door. 9 all overs a day would suck :stoned
[quote=”Ben” post=15599]Ryan,
Just for comparison, The Envirobase is not recommended to go over epoxy at all (as of yet). PPG brought in a prototype epoxy to us a few months ago, we’ll see if it ever gets developed. PPG does allow us to use their OneChoice aerosol primer under the base.
When I used CromaxPro, the DuPont rep preferred that we use the Epoxy as sealer and we were ok spraying it over their aerosol primer. But Cromax is a little different than many of the others. When I painted my car with Cromax, I sealed it with 1 coat of epoxy followed by a 30 minute flash prior to basing it. It has been about 3 years and holding up well. Adhesion seems to be excellent.
Obviously they are all different, but it is interesting comparing the differences in water base.[/quote]
When I got certified in Cromax they told me to stay away from aerosol. Epoxy can be used but they wanted a urethane in-between. They might have changed their stance by now. It was 2 years ago when I got certified.
With Sikkens, epoxy is a no-no for use as a sealer. They are ok with it for small cut-throughs, but not for sealing large areas. All you do is dust a light over reduced coat on top of the metal, trying to keep it small. They still prefer a urethane but the epoxy can be used if efficency is top priority.
Sikkens is supposed to have a waterborne primer/sealer that will solve this but it’s not out yet.
Cool pics! :cheers
I think he was getting lifting when he used spray can primer. He was using the primer in the first place for small burns on edges.
To be honest I didn’t know you could get waterborne basecoat to lift. I will spray over a cut-through all day long, as long as it hasn’t gone to metal. That’s one thing I love about it. Especially if you have to get back into a job that was just painted. Your base lays down just as easy as the first time and blends fine. With solvent it was a pain in the ass all the way through if you had to repaint one.
[quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=15573]I use lesonal spray can primer and have never had a problem, their data sheet says that it can be overcoated with WB basecoat.
See link, 6th data sheet down
http://www.lesonal.co.uk/lesonal/uk/Products/Pages/TDSOverview.aspx%5B/quote%5D
I don’t think we are lucky enough to have that product over here. I am pretty sure Sikkens has one like that in the UK also. I’m sure in 5 or so years it will make it’s way over here.
:whistle:I know the ones we have do as Jayson stated. Not compatable at all.
Spray it how you want it to look. Don’t worry about coverage. Second and possible third coat will get it covered.
If your worried about coverage on the first you might get yourself into trouble and over-apply it. Most good single stages(direct gloss) will get good coverage in 1 coat. Alot depends on the color and color of the undercoat. I always try and get my undercoat color as close to the topcoat color as possible.