ryan brown
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A D/A! :blush:
What a fuktard
Your theory is correct. It can be done but you would need to get a couple things lined up first.
If you don’t know how to spray a candy then I wouldn’t attempt to blend one.
You need to know the candy color used and the basecoat color used.
Once you figure out the colors used do a few sprayouts to determine the number of coats used to achieve the desired shade.
Give yourself plenty of blend room, you might need it.
Make sure your ground color is blended well.
From there blend as you would a 3-stage. try not to over apply excessive coats past where your ground color is.
It’s not impossible but it is a more difficult blend to pull off. It also depends on the colors used. Some candy colors suck to spray more than other. Also some basecoat colors make it easier. For example a red base under a red candy would be easier to work with than a silver base under a red candy.
Maybe Jim C will chime in as this is field of expertise. I have blended a few candies before but not a ton of them.
It’s the only setup I would consider for water. The other aircaps dont atomize very good at all. That may work with solvent base but not as well with water. The 7E7 works best for water. I dont know of anyone who actually uses the other aircaps.
Hell of a job Nick! :cheers
I have one. Pretty nice gun. I use it for waterborne basecoat. I have used it for clear also with good results.
The only aircap worth having is the 7E7. The other two suck. Mine came with a 1.2 and 1.3 nozzle and I bought a 1.4. Replacements are cheap, the nozzle is around $100. With the 7E7 it sprays alot like my RP. Not quite as good but very close.
Looks good man! Thats about how wet I spray my first coat of Autowave.
[quote=”ding” post=14922]if you’re worried just etch it then epoxy :kofee[/quote]
I think PPG is the only epoxy that says it can take etch under it. I know with Akzo and Dupont brands they say not to. I would be curious to know how other brands stand on that one.
BC/CC will hold up fine. SS would be ideal though.
My Akzo rep told me he will over harden his clear on engines and misc parts under the hood. hes said it will dramatically increase chemical resistance. It will slow drying times down though.
I would be worried about putting EHP directly over epoxy. I’m not positive but I think most of majors say not to put water over epoxy without a urethane in between. In that case etch may be easier. Not for sure about PPG though.
I had 3 farecla pads and wasn’t crazy about any of them. Too stiff for me. The self centering feature on them was pretty nice. I actually use Megs pads and compounds now with some Menzerna also. Still like Ultrafina too.
[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=14925]Yep! had that same problem. I switched to Farcela Total and I dont get that hazy look anymore one the car is washed. I was using 3M compound with a white foam pad before.[/quote]
I’m pretty sure he won’t have total in the UK. I think it’s a US only product. I like the Total also.
Tough call. I would say you can’t go wrong with epoxy, but I have never had etch fail on me and it’s been over a decade.
Have you ever over hardened clear on engine parts?
Mix up some isopropyl alcohol and water in a 50/50 mix. Wipe over the area you buffed with it after compounding and it will show you if you are going to have scratches still. I will compound with wool the again with foam and it seems to take care of it.
I have had G3 do that to me before also. Look and see if you can find some Menzerna Powergloss. It works better than G3.
Nice work Bondo. Just think of all the money you saved in masking tape on this job!:rofl
All of our vendors work with us on pricing. They will try and come as close to A/M cost as possible so we still make a markup. Sometimes we don’t get as much of a margin but it works out in the end when the tech doesn’t spend twice the time fuking with it.
I know all 3 domestics do it and also Honda and Toyota. I think Nissan might also. Lexus, Acura, Infiniti and the Europeans don’t. Usually A/M on Euros fits so bad you have to go OEM.