ryan brown
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
if its what I think it is, it can be a PITA. Is it a really fine aluminum used for replicating a polished aluminum look? Hyper silver?
If so it has the best appearance over a fresh black paintjob. Make sure you be within the recoat window and have no surface defects. If so sand and polish them out. The durability like this will not be as good. This will appear the most metal-like.
Usually I don;t have to do it this way to achieve the look I want. I prep my panel well, spray black base. If needed flatten back base with some P1000 to eliminate texture and dirt. Put 2 more thin flat coats of base on and go to my silver. If it is sprayed over any kind of scratch it will map it.
I have also sprayed it directly over black sealer with luck.
There is an air baffle difference. Just stick with the pros, there isn’t enough difference to worry about it
How the hell do you’ll go by sound? After 14-15 years I can’t tell what psi I’m at by listening to a gun. Maybe I’m not one with the gun! :blush:
Everytime I have tried and tested it against an aircap test gauge I am never right.
I use spraygunsdirect also. They ship to the States pretty fast. 3 day shipping to my door.
The more I use the 110 the more I like it. The US version of the GTI Pro, the Tekna seems to have a little larger spray pattern to me. Although I don’t mind it as I spray pretty close so all patterns are small! 👿
good catch Andy!
You have to clear all basecoat as it will not stand up to UV exposure very long at all. Ding is right it’s just a SS matte color, nothing special.
Just use a matte clear over the base and call it done.
If the color is just too white or clean an easy way to tint is to make a slurry mix. Take all of the toners in the formula except the white and make a mixture with them. The mixture should be balanced as in the formula, if it has 1g of black and 2g of yellow in the formula, your slurry mix will have the same. Add the slurry mix to the formula as needed till your color is closer.
Thanks guys. I recently got one and have been using it lately. I really like it also. It lays on very flat coat of paint on and also has a soft spray pattern which I like.
Just trying to get a feel for some others thoughts on it.
It’s the European version of the Tekna.
I would think the T1 or T2 cap would fit a MS clear the best. The T1 will not atomize as much so give it a go and if the finish isn’t laying down the way you want swap to the T2.
I would go with the 1.3 for a MS. If it sputtered try tightening it down a bit more. Be careful to not over-tighten. You may have to replace the seal behind the baffle that the airap screws onto.
You are correct about the needle. Every nozzle uses the same needle.
[quote=”gtome” post=30092]Agreed, but I have to believe dry times are similar. But if will please the court, I would be more than happy to go get a quart of waterbased paint and a quart of solvent based and run a test if this needs to be beat to death. Fact is, water is slower than solvent.[/quote]
Man, you really don’t have any idea about what your talking about. You are just figuring out what clear basecoat does and your going to come out and make a statement like this.
You have never even used an automotive waterborne basecoat yet you know so much about them??? Really?
I would be more than happy to do this test with you.
[quote=”gtome” post=30064]Because we dont want to wait around all day for water to dry.[/quote]
How much water have you sprayed?
[quote=”Andy T” post=30022]Question 🙂
I’m using mixit2. Is there any way of finding a list of current and/or superseding tinters?
Reason I ask is because I’m pretty sure it hasn’t been updated in a while and I seem to have loads of tinters with very similar numbers, and some that I don’t have at all. For example I pulled a colour up today that required 356. I don’t have it so used 355 :blush: I also pulled on up that has 350. I don’t have that either but managed to find another mix without it.
I also seem to have masses of pearl / mica ones that I never use so I’m wondering if they are old / new versions of the same. Maybe not, but you never know. I can’t remember the exact numbers off hand but I have some that are 332, 333, and 334, followed by the same letter(s)
Thanks :cheers[/quote]
Mixit 2? Man they need to upgrade you! Do you get updates? Should be 3 a year. If your looking at a color that calls for a toner you don’t have always check the version date. There is a newer version that needs to be picked. They leave the old formulas up in case someone has that toner left. Certain toners have been replaced. I always seemed to get better matches with the 350 and 355. The different toners aren’t drop in replacements, the formulas are different between them.
The number of pearls is normal.
Using slicksand over 40 grit I would be worried about adhesion more than shrinking. I would never spray anything over that grit. I would much rather use P120. If you need to use coarser grits to strip, make sure to refine them before spraying over top of them.
BTW it doesn’t matter how long you let primer or spray poly sit. It cures rather fast. If your worried give it a day or two. Letting primer sit long periods of time will not help with shrinking if the scratch under it is too deep. Remember your undercoats need to cure faster than topcoats. If wouldn’t be a good idea if your clear cured faster than the primer(which is the foundation)underneath.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=29919]
Yes I spray clear like that all the time,I don’t really spend much time trying to set the gun up to match peel,a faster mix will do the same thing.[/quote]This is valuable. Matching peel isn’t all that tough. Just do as Jayson advised. Couple less PSI, little faster solvent so it will not flow as much and back up an inch or two. If you want it flatter slow it down a bit, move in closer, couple more psi, more overlap and spray a bit wetter. It’s that simple.
If you try and get too much peel it better be a clean paintjob. I think they look worse if you have a panel full of flat spots and peel everywhere else.
Same as any other car. It just basecoat. Once dried there is no water left.
You shouldn’t base over featheredges anyway. Doesnt matter what is on the car. Seal or prime.