ryan brown
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- October 19, 2010 at 5:06 am #24362
Every rep I have talked to about this says the same thing. They all blend like shit. The exempt solvents that are slow enough to use are pricier also. I haven’t used one so I can’t say they will I am just repeating what I’ve heard.
I like they way water works personally and highly doubt low VOC solvent will be better or even that good, but I see it having a place. For shops that have poor spraying conditions, dirty environment, inadequate air supply and or too humid of a spraying environment it might be a good fit. Some people can’t or won’t invest the money they need to have a successful conversion to water, in those cases low VOC solvent makes more sense. Plus I can see it being better for custom guys.
To top all that there are a ton of guys who are too bull headed to even try water and dismiss it as not being good, and think water cant be as good as or better than solvent. Low voc solvent base will have a place in their hearts and that is a decent chunk of the body shop market.
I can see why Dupont is coming out with one though. There are some major issues people are having with their water, and this might be the fix.
October 18, 2010 at 7:36 pm #24351Sikkens Superior 250. it’s pricey but one of the nicest clears I have ever sprayed. way better than any of Sikkens higher VOC clears.
October 18, 2010 at 4:59 pm #24344I am around the 90-120 hours a week range. I have 1 helper and 1 booth. I have to work late sometimes for that, just depends on the week and the jobs. I also do other things though. I look after most of the jobs when finished to insure quality control and make sure the detail looks good. My shop is also very limited on space. I try and shoot to turn 20-25 hours a day.
October 18, 2010 at 2:51 pm #24343Nice work Bondo! :cheers I bet your shoulder was on fire by the end of that one!
October 18, 2010 at 2:48 pm #24342It’s owned by PPG. If I am not mistaken it is a budget priced line.
October 16, 2010 at 2:27 am #24245I have had to do the dash in an old Impala before, with a roof. And it was a candy job. It sucked big time.
October 16, 2010 at 2:03 am #24243Sweet looking job. At least you didn’t have to spray the roof also!;)
October 16, 2010 at 2:01 am #24242We have been doing them dry at work with a lot more success. I fought the edges doing them wet also. When done dry they fold right over.
Start at one end and only peel back as little of the backing as you can. I keep it lined up by keeping an eye on how much will fold over. Just make sure it is consistent.
August 22, 2010 at 2:16 am #24140Here is the bottle I use Andy.
scroll down to page 4
http://www.sata.com/uploads/tx_pxspecialcontent/46_RPS_us_02.pdfI use #127825 cleaning bottle. You can use a pump type bottle that holds cleaners but the acetone will eat the seals up kinda quick. If you use the pump type only add around 6-8 oz of acetone and the rest water and the seals will last longer. Any more acetone and the seals will go bad very quickly.
I also leave mine in the booth when it bakes. Seems hot water works better than anything.
The first dust coat is something I got from you Andy, works good! 😉
August 21, 2010 at 7:48 pm #24125Couple tips for ya. Once or twice a week run your water gun through the solvent gun washer. Make sure it is dry inside. Once done blow air through it and flush with T494. I usually do it first thing in the morning about once a week. Also helps to pull the nozzle out once a week and clean it real quick.
As far as cleaning your gun after spraying I keep a Sata squirt bottle with a little bit of acetone and tap water in it. I keep it in the booth and after spraying I will take off the PPS or RPS cup and flush it in the booth with air running through it. That will clean 90% of it. I then run it through a water gun cleaner.
If your not gonna seal it will help to put a very light coat on first and blow dry with your gun. It gives your first coat something to grip to.
August 21, 2010 at 5:43 am #24110I have a few spare LPH’s …..just saying
I have used the same gun for base and clear many times with no problems. If worried spend 1 minute and pull the nozzle out and clean real quick. A chopstick with a towel around it and a little thinner will clean a nozzle real quick.
August 21, 2010 at 5:23 am #24107Have you thought about just getting a different aircap for your Iwata?
I can’t think of a good basecoat gun that will be under $300. I have used both the LVB(purple) and LVX(orange) aircaps and they both work well. There isn’t a color I can’t spray with the LVX easily. Low overspray also.
August 21, 2010 at 4:54 am #24103Thats pretty cool Jim. I can honestly say I have never thought about painting glass.
Can you still see through it somewhat or is it opaque?
August 20, 2010 at 5:12 am #24055I have tried the EC700 and I’m not a fan of it. To be honest I still like their 2021 clear.
If you are limited to low voc clears I am not real familiar with what PPG has to offer.
I use Sikkens Autowave and if you have any say so in it you might want to give it a look. Their Superior 250 clear is one of the nicest clears I have ever sprayed.
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